Ok so garage datalogged car and checked for fuel pressure drop whilst driving no issue found now he wants to do compression test

 

My issue with this is car drive great when warm boost through every gear pulls fine

 

Garage did cold compression test 7bar in every cylinder is that bad or ok

 

It's a bit low. But if they were all even it could just be the tester they used.

 

Hot compression results
1-100
2-110
3-105
4-105

 

My boost gauge seems to be stting at -0.2 at hot idle used to be -0.6 does this mean i have a airleak

 

Forgot guy that checked car said nps wasnt working correctly would that cause misfire stutter

 

Hi there

If NPS is not working correctly then due this you have those misfire issues,you can search over here threads about the NPS and misfire,just I would datalog if AVCS are working or yours speed converter is working

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura

 

Cheers jura even when warm car feels like it has a flat spot just as is hits 3000rpm or could it be avcs or pulling timing

 

Wouldn't nps be bad all the time and not just from cold?

 

Read my ecu for codes got p0335 but i didnt notice eml on so read up on it found this
NOTE: If the crank sensor is used only for misfire detection and NOT spark timing (this varies with the vehicle), the vehicle should start and run with MIL (Malfunction indicator lamp) illumination. Also, some vehicles require several key cycles to illuminate the MIL. If this is the case, there may be no MIL illumination until the problem often enough over time. If the crank sensor is used for BOTH misfire detection and spark timing, the vehicle may or may not start. Symptoms may include: Vehicle may not start (see above) Vehicle may run rough or misfire MIL illuminates

Could this be my issue

 

Hi there

If you have bad crank sensor which can be,I know from our experience when our crank sensor failed,we have issue with starting or car started splutter like you are running out the fuel etc when car has been in operating temps,not sure if this can cause yours issues which you have as seems on yours you don't have one issue but several like NPS

All those issues(NPS and crank sensor) can cause those issues as without the NPS yours AVCS will be in retarded position and if yours crank doesn't work or is faulty,you can have issue with starting and when car is hot,you can have issue when you will be driving as car can die and when engine will be bit colder,you will and can start the engine

I would replace both sensor and take have look on other bits which needs to be replaced there

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura

 

The crank sensor was obviously controlling starting here^

 

Had someone look at car he said one of my injectors is staying open constant when cold but seems to be ok when fully warmed up

 

How did they find that?

 

He checked for airleaks tested coils/plugs then changed his injectors with mine and car ran perfect he said

 

He also said he took injectors out manifold but still attached to rail and 1 injector wasnt spraying fuel it was gushing out it

 

So is the motor ok now?

 

No as he had to put my injectors back in i am just checking for info before i spend £400 on new injectors

 

New injectors fitted car runs perfect now

 

Nice,glad its sorted now,well done that man who found it 👏

 

Ex subaru mechanic found it drop car off at his house 2 days later issue found