bludgod

iTrader: (3)

the -3 is caused by knock - most likely reason for knock is going to be fuel quality.

When you have an air leak the air/fuel mixture is off which has the same effect as reducing the fuel quality (and with a lot more danger!).

You'll generally never score zero all the time - anything in and around 5 (either plus 5 or negative 5) will be fine. Any values greater or one box being muchly different from the others then something needs looking at. It won't help you any but mine are in the 1.xx % range - though I've modded my car quite a bit and made a lot of map adjustments to go with it.

Manford

Cool, il give it a run until I need to fill up, check the figures, fill up with v power and reset it, see what difference it makes.

Modding and map adjustments are where I want to go next, nice solid base to work from is essential though. Im slowly accepting Im going to end up buying a tactrix cable......

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

good man - give me a shout if you need a hand making some tweeks

Manford

i get the feeling you will hear from me the moment I start tweaking.

Checked my car again this morning, IAM down to 4 and that third column has started climbing again, its at 6~% at the moment.

im desperately trying to track down a bov gasket but nowhere lists them, im thinknig i mite have to do something crazy like go to Subaru to get one.

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

no where lists them? bro do you even google?
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Suba...-STI-2004-2011

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Su...item3ccfa1ff8f


are you sure it's the bov though?

Manford

Not 100% sure but I got to start somewhere and there were some marks on the contact surfaces, so it's possible that's where the leak is.

I'm going to get in some hose to replace the vacuum lines and check the bus whilst I'm at it.

I can't see anything obvious,where would you start?

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

if it was me I'd start at the MAF and work my way back. It's not enough to ensure the pipe is just connected - give them a wiggle (they will move around when the engine is running anyway) and inspect them to see if they are brittle/cracked or loose. If they can't stand up to being poked by your finger they won't hold up to boost pressures.

Get the intercooler off and have a look at the 2 pipes leading into it from the turbo - if your doing gaskets might as well refresh those as well (one of mine was leaking and caused strange results under boost). They aren't mad expensive either you can get them from subaru or ebay but do get proper subaru ones wherever you buy them from.

If there is still nothing strange standing out - see if you can find a garage that can do a leak down test. They can pressurise the intake and that should make it much easier to hear what's happening.

Manford

2 pipes from the turbo into the intercooler? Do you mean the top two seals of the y pipe?

Can you confirm the id of the vacuum hoses, some are saying 3mm others 4mm, ebay kits vary between both. I'm thinking if i take one of I can use a 3 and 4mm drill bit so size the id?

i will have another poke around at lunch........

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

yes the two seals for the metal ends of the Y pipe leading into the intercooler. On the back of mine one side was fine and the other was sooty/black smudges all around it where air had been escaping.

I'm pretty sure I used 4mm ID pipe on mine and have had no bother from it.

Manford

I have to bow down to your knowledge Bludog

Car was running Bp Ultimate, -3 degrees in several columns, filled up with V power let it filter through and reset the ecu, drove to work, 0 degress of adjustments in any column.

My IAM keeps going up and down mainly between 4 and 10, what causes this?

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

OK so IAM at 4 now which is still not ideal. It should be up at 16 unless the car is hearing knock somewhere.

After a reset the IAM is at 8 - the car will then try to advance timing broadly (rough correction mode). If things are good the IAM will increase by 4 up until your at IAM 16 which is the maximum (and ideal) value.

In your case the IAM has dropped below the original number, which suggest the car is hearing something it doesn't like.

This is where you come in, the ECU is saying to you it hears knock - you must determine why that is.

Is it hearing knock because there is knock? Is it hearing knock because the mix is too lean/too rich? Is there bad spark? Is the MAF readings incorrect? Is a vac line blown off?

The ecu can't know any of this, you have to inspect and see what you can find - or drop the car into a garage that can give it a once over and see what's up with it.

Manford

I did replace the plugs over xmas, I put NGK BKR6EIX in 0.8mm gap. Is it worth double checking these? I would like to think these are fine but i suppose you can never be 100% sure without double checking.

Presumably from the logs you would be able to see anomalies if the maf sensor was reading garbage?

Vac lines keeps coming up as a possible, definately looks like a job for the weekend.

As the car is happy in three out of four columns and different parts of the system are used in different circumstances, does this point to any particular part of the intake/vac system?

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

it's the kind of thing that might be quicker resolved if the car was at a garage with a full set of diagnostic tools - trying to poke it out over the internet is going to be a long long thing that may not get you to a quick resolution before any real harm is done.

Visual inspection is whats needed, get in under the bonnet - check EVERYTHING out. Use your eyes, your hands and your ears. Does anything sound odd - does anything look odd or out of places. Can you feel any strange vibrations maybe?

Manford

Ok, another attempt today with what I think is mixed results............



Figures in third column seem much better and i have been out and about but......IAM rose to 16, the moment i wound it up plummeted and back to no/low boost.

Log of when i wound it up on datazap

I refitted the original y pipe, checked and wiggled all the hoses I could find, nothing looks out the ordinary/damage/worn. I will check the plugs tomorrow if that doenst fix it I mite have to accept defeat and take it to the garage. :-(

Manford

Looking at the log,the moment it hit 4k~,the IAM plummeted to 0.

Checked plugs this morning,gap was a little small,regapped them and we will see how it goes.......

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

if it's knocking to death when it comes on boost it could be a fuel issue - check the vac lines coming off the manifold as one of them is used for the FPR. If it's disconnected the fuel pressure won't rise with boost.

Manford

Turbo intake manifold or the main inlet manifold on top of the engine?Could it be a knackered fuel pump?

Have you looked at my log or going from my description?

http://www.datazap.me/u/manford/log-...log=0&data=3-8

Looking at my wast gate cycle it never goes above 50~% is that normal?

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

looking at what you've said about the IAM just. You've forgotton to log boost/manifold relative pressure so really there's no way to know what your primary wastegate duty should be at any given point.

You can see the knock correction advance is generally quite low - if you'd logged engine load then you could look up what it's meant to be in the rom file to see how far off it is.

Low ignition timing will be because of the low IAM value which is due to the knock control system kicking in. This is what you need to look at, why is the car hearing knock, is it actual knock or is something rattling around. Is it knock due to poor air mixture or knock due to failed components or knock due to fuel quality.

Manford

I will add boost/manifold pressure and engine load to my next log.

I'm thinking the knock correction as a rule should be low? to gt the rom I need to download that from the car? or compare it to one of the net?

Im thinking that as it happens the moment the revs rise above a point, fuel is a likely cause, as the afr ratio goes off at the same point?

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

engine load calculated and manifold relative pressure direct is the ones you want

The knock correction advance should be high, anywhere from 2 to 11 or so on a stock map. The happier the engine is, the more advance it adds until it hears some nasty knock knock then it removes the knock correction advance value until the noise stops.

On your standard car you should see this as something between 5 and 10 throughout the pull.

Manford

Sums up my luck, the 4mm hose i ordered has just turned up and its 3mm!

Anything useful I can use it for?

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

nah your as handy just returning it and waiting for right stuff to arrive. It's not something you want to come back to in 3-6-8 months to do again.

Manford

i had a feeling that was the case.

Nothing else I can replace with a 3mm id?

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

i dunno mr you'd have to try it on and see if you can make it fit.

Manford

replacement sent today. :-)

Manford

Which end side of the inlet manifold is the fpr? I've had a quick look and couldn't see it.

How come my car doesn't flag up any error codes whilst all this is going on?

ossett2k2

iTrader: (9)

On classic the fpr is on O/S under manifold

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

the car is flagging an error in that it hears knock and is reducing the IAM to compensate.

I'm not sure what kind of code you would flag for that?

FPR is on the turbo side of the engine near the front.



also check the EGR valve plumbing as it can be dodgy too :


Check all the lines coming off there - there are a few underneath you can't see in the pic and a t piece too.

Manford

Checked all the lines as far as I can see. Is there an easy way to test the fpr?

http://www.datazap.me/u/manford/log-...data=3-4-12-14

new log, it started after the IAM had dropped but hopefully some useful info in there still

Manford

Whats the EGR?