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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 10:19 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by SAM-UK300
Does anyone know of a guide online anywhere for taking out the engine?
No but it can be that difficult. It's all visual checks that everything has been disconnected from the engine, coolant and oil removed, radiator out for more room to work, bonnet off as well maybe.
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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 10:48 AM
  #32  
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Google is your friend, guides all over the net mate, Utube is full of video's, it's really a piece of p1ss, only secret to it is the clutch fork pin, beyond that you could teach a monkey to do it.
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 08:39 PM
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So made a start to removing the engine a short while ago. I was having a dig around first to see where my oil leak was coming from. There's no doubt I have a leak from the oil separator but I found a couple of others:

Rocker cover gasket?



This one is on the other bank, directly below the A/C compressor. I spilled some compressor oil below the compressor a while back but I fear this may be engine oil:



Noticed some coolant stains/wetness around the oil cooler too:



Any thoughts on these? I know the rocker covers are prone to leaking and to use genuine gaskets and three bond. As for the oil cooler and the oil around the other head gasket, I don't know.
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 10:03 PM
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The best advise would be to thoroughly clean the engine of all oil. Then give it a good drive and recheck. There's absolutely no point in pulling an engine out blindly and guessing where the leaks are.
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 11:17 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by jason_2013
The best advise would be to thoroughly clean the engine of all oil. Then give it a good drive and recheck. There's absolutely no point in pulling an engine out blindly and guessing where the leaks are.
It's coming out to repair the separator plate, that's leaking 100%, I just found these additional leaks.
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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 01:17 AM
  #36  
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I understand. I've fixed exactly the same leak myself. The separator plate was the early plastic type on mine, It had cracked near the bolt holes. I put an alloy one on instead.

I would still recommend cleaning it and driving it to see where the additional leaks are. It's well worth the extra time doing this. A first time fix is always satisfying.
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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 10:39 AM
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Only problem is I've already got a fair amount of parts removed already for renovation. I'll maybe have to build it again and do what you said first.
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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 11:44 AM
  #38  
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The top pic, it could be rocker gaskets or the little rubber grommets that the cam cover bolts go through,
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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 11:51 AM
  #39  
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I'm actually thinking its the bolt seals, there's three bond all round the rocker gasket. Gonna clean it all up and leave it to leak again before doing anything.
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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 01:52 PM
  #40  
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I've got all this to come my gearbox decided to ****e itself, while the engines out I'm gona do all seals gaskets and cambelt and give it a nice clean, then get the body work sorted
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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 02:32 PM
  #41  
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Pretty much what I'm aiming to achieve minus the gearbox!
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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 02:54 PM
  #42  
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Just rebuild it there's nowt to it.

You may as well while it's out, set of fresh bearings won't hurt.
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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 03:21 PM
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I wouldn't rebuild a perfectly running engine. I would fix the oil leaks only. It will be far quicker that way. Maybe do the cambelt if it's nearly due and put some new spark plugs in.If the clutch has done more than 40k I would change it. Or do some upgrades if you fancy.
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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 04:04 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by ditchmyster
Just rebuild it there's nowt to it. You may as well while it's out, set of fresh bearings won't hurt.
Don't tempt me lol! Bearings only have 3000 miles on them. They'll be ok for a little while yet I hope!
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