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I won't be using their parts either. Even asking you to pay for shipment o a replacement warranty fault is taking the total p155 to be honest. I'd have hit the roof!
AT least it will be back on the road again though.
The only reason I originally bought it was my OEM tank leaked at the filler neck. I'm now going to be on my 3rd Mishimoto tank
Seems like a good way to make money though, make **** parts, sell with a "Lifetime warranty", charge £35 for said warranty.
I won't be using their parts either. Even asking you to pay for shipment o a replacement warranty fault is taking the total p155 to be honest. I'd have hit the roof!
AT least it will be back on the road again though.
i agree, that is very very poor customer service, they should cover all costs and also send a voucher or something like that as a gesture of good-will.
re-re-fixed. Good job. Fingers crossed this one holds up!
Seems to be so far.
Had another problem the other day. I'm running a 3 Port OBP catch can that's VTA. I ran a hose from the vent down the side of the gearbox to keep the stink away, but the hose I used clearly wasn't up to the job as it collapsed on top of the can blocking the vent, which meant crank case pressure built up and stopped the GT30 draining properly which meant lots of smoke after running it in boost
I've just moved the breather filter straight to the top of the catch can now and it seems to have resolved the issue. I'll have to find some 22mm hose that's more up to the job!
So it's still puffing a bit of smoke from the turbo. Mostly white with a tinge of blue, it's better than it was but I can still see it, get a little smoke as it starts to build boost, nothing that I can see whilst on boost and some puffs on overrun. Doesn't puff all the time, seems to do it intermittently. There is a bit of oil in the turbo to intercooler pipework and I think it's also leaking out of the turbine housing also, but I've not dropped the downpipe off to check.
I think the turbo may be seeing too much oil pressure. Currently running a -4an braided line with a 1mm restrictor screwed into the turbo. My engine is running an 11mm oil pump and revs to 7500rpm so I'm thinking I need a smaller oil restrictor. The next size down is 0.9mm so that'll be my first option. If it still puffs with that, then I'm going to hook up an oil pressure gauge in-between the restrictor and the turbo and see what it's actually getting pressure wise. Recommended is a max of between 40-45psi warm.
Doesn't seem to be affecting performance at all, and I can't say I noticed the level on the dipstick move much but I don't want oil getting shoved round my intercooler pipework to be burnt off potentially lowering the octane of the fuel!
Took the pipework off that connects to the turbo. There isn't much in there, kind of a dark coating on the silicone joiner from oil mist by the look of it. I should think the turbine / exhaust side is where most of the leakage is.
I'm going to give it an oil change at the weekend and swap the oil restrictor for the turbo out and I'll also give it a compression test just to rule any engine related issues out.
Not sure, I'd have to take the downpipe off to check as getting the turbo inlet off is a nightmare
I'm 99.9% sure it's the turbo that's smoking. It doesn't smoke from a cold start, or sat at idle. Puffs a little smoke as the turbo starts to spool up, seems pretty clean on boost, then on over run it puffs again. But it doesn't do it all the time and seems to happen intermittently. Smoke is greyish white with a tinge of blue maybe, the over run puffs look like drops oil hitting a hot exhaust. I did get it to smoke a little revving it from idle to about 4 or 5k revs where the turbo is starting to spin up and chattering, but only once and it wasn't much.
Engine seems fine, pulls hard, no hesitations, no misfires, no smoke out of the oil cap at idle etc, catch can contents look normal, I'm running an OBP 1 litre can that hasn't been emptied yet and it's about 1/4 - 1/3 full after 1500ish miles.
As you say it definitely sounds like turbo burning oil issue. Change the restrictor pill thing first and see where you get to with it. If it still smokes it may be turbo off and inspection time.
As you say it definitely sounds like turbo burning oil issue. Change the restrictor pill thing first and see where you get to with it. If it still smokes it may be turbo off and inspection time.
Bugger.
If the turbos coming off the same one won't be going back on
If I have to go to the hassle of swapping it out I'll just go rotated and bang a 35R on it
Yep! Lots. Standard location turbo will always be restricted in size due to going under the headers and intake size. Going rotated will allow fitment of a much bigger turbo like the GT35R and get MUCH better figures.
And also had my neighbour rev it whilst I held a kitchen towel near the exhaust.... Not sure there's much doubt something is wrong with the exhaust seal
So did a compression test on it today. Warmed it up until the fans kicked on and off then pulled the plugs to test it.
Drivers / turbo side both came out at exactly 125psi.
Passenger side both came out at exactly 140psi.
So 15psi difference between each side of the engine 😏. Seems a little odd to me. Still seems to run fine and pulls good vacuum etc. But I don't know what to think now. I'm still 99.9% sure the turbo is causing the smoke but I have no idea why the drivers side is 15psi down, maybe the timing has jumped or something on that side, or its done the head gasket in-between the cylinders or something (definitely hasn't blown in any other way). Needs looking into further. Will pull the timing covers off and check the marks when I get time then a leak down test I guess.
On another note my replacement mishimoto tank is leaking AGAIN from exactly the same place, complete waste of space company!
Pulled the rad out today and removed the belt covers. Timing lines up fine so it's not that. The next thing I was going to check is whether the avcs solenoid is stuck and the cam is stuck advanced, as the intake valve will close early, less air to compress, less compression. Then if that all checks out and isn't the cause I'll stick a camera in it and have a look at the bores and pistons.
hmm... 15psi down is quite a lot to be honest. Not great. Bit odd it's on both cylinders though.
Have you contacted Graham at WMS for his thoughts yet? Would be worth a call. Nice guy and very helpful.
I'm not shocked your Mi-sh1ti-moto can is leaking again. I'd be wanting every penny I'd spent with them back now, including all the carriage they made you pay for faulty replacements. Terrible.
Last edited by BrownPantsRacing; 22 January 2018 at 11:35 AM.
hmm... 15psi down is quite a lot to be honest. Not great. Bit odd it's on both cylinders though.
Have you contacted Graham at WMS for his thoughts yet? Would be worth a call. Nice guy and very helpful.
I'm not shocked your Mi-****i-moto can is leaking again. I'd be wanting every penny I'd spent with them back now, including all the carriage they made you pay for faulty replacements. Terrible.
They made him pay postage for faulty products.......are you ****ing serious? That's ****ing shocking customer service
hmm... 15psi down is quite a lot to be honest. Not great. Bit odd it's on both cylinders though.
Have you contacted Graham at WMS for his thoughts yet? Would be worth a call. Nice guy and very helpful.
I'm not shocked your Mi-sh1ti-moto can is leaking again. I'd be wanting every penny I'd spent with them back now, including all the carriage they made you pay for faulty replacements. Terrible.
I've ordered an Endoscope thing that links to your phone to have a look in the bores. It's got a mirror attachment too so I can see the valves. Going to pull the AVCS solenoid out on that side too and check it's not jammed up. 125psi isn't low enough for damaged pistons IMO, when my original 2.0 OEM lump did the pistons it was down to 100psi and smoking like a trooper out of the oil fill cap. And these are Manley 2618 pistons too, so the chances of them cracking etc are pretty slim. Spark plugs all looked the same and just had normal carbon build up on them, none were wet with oil etc.
If the motor is hurt then I'm afraid it'll be getting broken for bits as I couldn't face spending out on a new lump again, this one has cost thousands and if it's only lasted 1500 miles i'm going to be less than impressed. If it's a valve problem then I may be able to stomach pulling the engine and sorting the heads, but they were supposed to be fully refreshed when the entire engine was built.
I've ordered an Endoscope thing that links to your phone to have a look in the bores. It's got a mirror attachment too so I can see the valves. Going to pull the AVCS solenoid out on that side too and check it's not jammed up. 125psi isn't low enough for damaged pistons IMO, when my original 2.0 OEM lump did the pistons it was down to 100psi and smoking like a trooper out of the oil fill cap. And these are Manley 2618 pistons too, so the chances of them cracking etc are pretty slim. Spark plugs all looked the same and just had normal carbon build up on them, none were wet with oil etc.
If the motor is hurt then I'm afraid it'll be getting broken for bits as I couldn't face spending out on a new lump again, this one has cost thousands and if it's only lasted 1500 miles i'm going to be less than impressed. If it's a valve problem then I may be able to stomach pulling the engine and sorting the heads, but they were supposed to be fully refreshed when the entire engine was built.
If I had to put my money on it I'd be guessing valves or head gasket over pistons and block any day.
Just out of interest, was there a compression test done after build when complete? Seems odd that they are both identical in their drop. Like head skim issue? Head gasket thickness?
Just out of interest, was there a compression test done after build when complete? Seems odd that they are both identical in their drop. Like head skim issue? Head gasket thickness?
This is the first time I've done a compression test on it. So in theory it could have been like this the entire time. It is weird, cylinders 1 & 3 were both exactly 125psi, I mean absolutely bang on 125, then 2 & 4 were both absolutely exactly 140psi. I can't see how it would kill both pistons on the same bank to exactly the same extent that they're both 15psi low, or valves to be honest. You'd expect the damage to vary slightly and them give slightly different compression numbers.
Hmm. Worth talking to WMS me thinks. See if he did this check after the build. Almost like it was like this from build date TBH.
I'll stick a camera in there first and also check the AVCS solenoid. After I'm out of idea's I'll have a chat with him. If there is any valve or piston damage it should be pretty easy to see with the camera.
Ok so I've stuck the camera down there. Pistons arent cracked or burnt. Look either carbon that's wet with fuel or a bit oily, hard to tell. There's some scuffing on the bores, mainly on the bottom side of the pistons but looks ok and nothing too serious. I used the mirror and had a look at the valves as best I could, it's not easy twisting a thin cable about I can tell you! They all look normal colour wise, not oily. But I noticed on the seat of one of the valves in cylinder #1 a whiteish looking area and it looks like the valve seat is cracked 🙄.
I managed to get in through the throttle body and down to the back of the valves on that side (no idea which piston) and they look quite oily and black. So I think the oil smoke may be coming from the valve seals.
Pic of the bores:
Can see a little scuffing above that blob of fuel / oil but doesn't look bad at all. Can still see the cross hatch in the bores also.
Either way it looks like it's got to come to bits 🙁. Not checked #2 & #4 yet as my endoscope thing went flat.
04 January 2018, 03:54 PM
