sedge69

iTrader: (11)

hi guys,

started my brake refurb today, but as usual im having a bit of trouble with the rears, the drivers side i got everything off ok and swapped the hose for braided ones but the back plate came off in bits, litterally rusted through



can you actually buy these and i suppose they need to be welded back on?

the other side everything was going ok till itcame to changing the hose i cant undo the bloody thing, i dont really want to snap it and repair but will if needed anyone had this before and how did you cure it?



thanks in advance

Gary

Woody69

iTrader: (6)

Just done this today, you need a 10mm and a 17mm make sure you turn the right way....

I had to get medieval and use mole grips on the 10mm end just be careful
not to completly crush it

Take out the silver clip that holds that lot in place, its on the 10mm end....makes it alot easier

sedge69

iTrader: (11)

I too had to get medieval with mole grips but still slipping, think I'll be going down the bust it route and repair

Woody69

iTrader: (6)

Spray loads of wd-40 and leave over night, try shock tactics on the 17mm spanner end with big hammer while holding grips ( might need 2 people)

That bracket in the middle looks bent out of shape to me?

sedge69

iTrader: (11)

I'll give that a try wd40 overnight. The bkt is that shape cos the end of the rubber hose sits in there, the other is the same shape

Woody69

iTrader: (6)

I dont even wanna do my rears now

sedge69

iTrader: (11)

lol, i dont think its gone that bad done all 4 wheels and really only had two probs, and if it comes to it ill cut it off and re-flair it with a new nut.

Gary

Bean1984

iTrader: (3)

Good luck with it mate. Rear brakes are always a pain especially when your changing the brake lines as well. Shock tatics with some wd40 should sort it tho for you. Im gonna do mine over a whole weekend invluding the front calipers soon

sedge69

iTrader: (11)

Good luck dude I'm doing the front too. They were easy no probs at all

Saalro

iTrader: (8)

Locking grips is what i used! Make sure to hold the 17mm too.

Thanks

sedge69

iTrader: (11)

tried that sam and still no good left soaking in wd40 last night and still cant shift them today

Saalro

iTrader: (8)

Wow, that bad! I thought mine were a slight pain but that's just hell if it doesn't come lose, sorry to rub it in! Lol

I've just been building my brake system for my classic and to get to the rear lines i ended up taking the tank out.

Thanks

sedge69

iTrader: (11)

dont say that sam, mind you i know a bloke who can cut the nut off and put a new one on in situ, so will be giving him a ring tomorrow it the only way im gonna get it sorted...........

i need some shims for the fronts as there are none, dont supp[ose you know where i could get some???????

JonMc

iTrader: (51)

The rear lines are a PITA, and the factory steel hose is a pig to flare, but when I removed the ABS we managed to run a new copper line without removing the tank. If it was the drivers side I'd have been happier but we re-routed the lines for the passenger side as we could not see where it went above the tank/subframe

Saalro

iTrader: (8)

Lol sorry, obviously that's worst case senario.

When you say shims what do mean sorry?

Thanks

sedge69

iTrader: (11)

the shims go between the pots and the pads there should be two one solid one and one with holes in

like these but dont know if these will fit yet
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3505911293...84.m1423.l2649

Gary

Saalro

iTrader: (8)

Ah, you could try the lads on here in the for sale sections who brake Subaru's, they must have a set lying about, not sure of anywhere else i'm afraid.

Thanks

sedge69

iTrader: (11)

lol never thought of that

Gary

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

£40 for the shims!

What callipers have you got, Gary? The OEM 4 pots?

sedge69

iTrader: (11)

yes mate the standard 4 pots

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

Something like this not useable;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBC-BRAKES...#ht_523wt_1344

I might have some shims lying about, I'll have a look tomorrow and let you know mate.

sedge69

iTrader: (11)

it says that my bug isnt compatable??????? thought they were universal. yeah looked at them, i will consider if i cant get hold of originals but would prefer originals

thanks for looking hope you have some

ajsscooby

iTrader: (5)

Try using a hot air paint stripper on it, two of mine released ok after heating up, apparently it softens the cruddy brake fluid in the threads.

Also - there was no way they were comng off without destroying the 10mm nut so I used a proper flare nut tool (halfords pro, about £5 I think, worth every penny).

Good luck.

Godspeed Brakes

iTrader: (259)

HI
The nut on the end of the metal pipe going into the flexi pipe can be a right sod to undo , I think they must have a sumo wrestler tightening them up in the factory , a proper brake spanner is the best thing to slacken them off as they as much thicker ans stronger than a normal spanner , a normal spanner will bend open and round off the nut.

If you are at the stage where it has rounded off , then clamping mole grips on it firmly should undo it , we have had to resort to this a few times , but we have never failed to get them off , you need the right clamping force on the mole grips , not enough will cause the mole grips to slip , too much will crush the nut , so take your time with it and keep an eye on what its doing.

Regarding the pad shims , they are only there to suppress noise , so its not the be all and end all to have them fitted , I prefer to run without them as it gives you a slightly spongier pedal feel with them fitted , I prefer to either put copper slip on the pads where the pistons touch , and some more on the ends of the pads , be careful not to get any on the actual pad surface otherwise your brakes won't work very well !

Or you can fit the sticky pads as in the link above.

Squeel is usually caused by the pads vibrating in the calipers under use , so all your looking to do is dampen this happening , you can also bend the spring clip that holds the pads tight in the calipers , bending the clip with hold the pads tighter.

Hope this helps

Cheers Ian

JDM_Stig

iTrader: (3)

dremmel with a metal brush type wheel on it, clean all the crap out of the joint and soak as mentioned,
I had a pita on a classic once which again was a pain to flare, but a proper brake line spanner is a must imo if you want to even think of removing them.

sedge69

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for all your replies. I'll certainly give them all a try.

One that ng in the top picture you will notice that the dust plate at the back has come off (fell to bits) well just how critical are they ie can you run without them cos there £109 + vat from subaru and I don't want to spend that kind of money if I don't have to

Thanks

Gary

Godspeed Brakes

iTrader: (259)

HI
Don't worry about it , you will have no issues running without it , those who fit the WRX 2 pot discs and calipers on the rears have to remove it to fit them on , and we have heard of no problems whatsoever from anyone
Cheers Ian

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Mine has no dust covers front, or rear, and has no problems, plus it never traps a pebble between dust cover and disc any more.....

sedge69

iTrader: (11)

That's cool I'll just take the other side off to match

THANKS GUYS

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

Gary, sorry mate. I was sure I had a set of shims, but I can't find them anywhere.