started my brake refurb
hi guys,
started my brake refurb today, but as usual im having a bit of trouble with the rears, the drivers side i got everything off ok and swapped the hose for braided ones but the back plate came off in bits, litterally rusted through http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/...psddfffd66.jpg can you actually buy these and i suppose they need to be welded back on? the other side everything was going ok till itcame to changing the hose i cant undo the bloody thing, i dont really want to snap it and repair but will if needed anyone had this before and how did you cure it? http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/...pse1f9ab4d.jpg thanks in advance Gary |
Just done this today, you need a 10mm and a 17mm make sure you turn the right way....
I had to get medieval and use mole grips on the 10mm end just be careful not to completly crush it :thumb: Take out the silver clip that holds that lot in place, its on the 10mm end....makes it alot easier :) |
I too had to get medieval with mole grips but still slipping, think I'll be going down the bust it route and repair
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Spray loads of wd-40 and leave over night, try shock tactics on the 17mm spanner end with big hammer while holding grips ( might need 2 people)
That bracket in the middle looks bent out of shape to me? |
I'll give that a try wd40 overnight. The bkt is that shape cos the end of the rubber hose sits in there, the other is the same shape
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I dont even wanna do my rears now :cry:
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Originally Posted by Woody69
(Post 10799141)
I dont even wanna do my rears now :cry:
Gary:thumb::thumb: |
Good luck with it mate. Rear brakes are always a pain especially when your changing the brake lines as well. Shock tatics with some wd40 should sort it tho for you. Im gonna do mine over a whole weekend invluding the front calipers soon
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Good luck dude I'm doing the front too. They were easy no probs at all
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Locking grips is what i used! Make sure to hold the 17mm too.
Thanks |
Originally Posted by Saalro
(Post 10799743)
Locking grips is what i used! Make sure to hold the 17mm too.
Thanks Sam tried that sam and still no good left soaking in wd40 last night and still cant shift them today |
Wow, that bad! I thought mine were a slight pain but that's just hell if it doesn't come lose, sorry to rub it in! Lol
I've just been building my brake system for my classic and to get to the rear lines i ended up taking the tank out. Thanks |
dont say that sam, mind you i know a bloke who can cut the nut off and put a new one on in situ, so will be giving him a ring tomorrow it the only way im gonna get it sorted...........
i need some shims for the fronts as there are none, dont supp[ose you know where i could get some??????? |
The rear lines are a PITA, and the factory steel hose is a pig to flare, but when I removed the ABS we managed to run a new copper line without removing the tank. If it was the drivers side I'd have been happier but we re-routed the lines for the passenger side as we could not see where it went above the tank/subframe:wonder:
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Lol sorry, obviously that's worst case senario.
When you say shims what do mean sorry? Thanks |
Originally Posted by Saalro
(Post 10799866)
Lol sorry, obviously that's worst case senario.
When you say shims what do mean sorry? Thanks Sam the shims go between the pots and the pads there should be two one solid one and one with holes in like these but dont know if these will fit yet http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3505911293...84.m1423.l2649 Gary |
Ah, you could try the lads on here in the for sale sections who brake Subaru's, they must have a set lying about, not sure of anywhere else i'm afraid.
Thanks |
lol never thought of that
Gary |
Originally Posted by sedge69
(Post 10799873)
the shims go between the pots and the pads there should be two one solid one and one with holes in
like these but dont know if these will fit yet http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3505911293...84.m1423.l2649 Gary What callipers have you got, Gary? The OEM 4 pots? |
yes mate the standard 4 pots
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Something like this not useable;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBC-BRAKES...#ht_523wt_1344 I might have some shims lying about, I'll have a look tomorrow and let you know mate. |
Originally Posted by mickywrx
(Post 10800223)
Something like this not useable;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBC-BRAKES...#ht_523wt_1344 I might have some shims lying about, I'll have a look tomorrow and let you know mate. it says that my bug isnt compatable??????? thought they were universal. yeah looked at them, i will consider if i cant get hold of originals but would prefer originals thanks for looking hope you have some:thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb::thumb: |
Originally Posted by sedge69
(Post 10799748)
tried that sam and still no good left soaking in wd40 last night and still cant shift them today
Try using a hot air paint stripper on it, two of mine released ok after heating up, apparently it softens the cruddy brake fluid in the threads. Also - there was no way they were comng off without destroying the 10mm nut so I used a proper flare nut tool (halfords pro, about £5 I think, worth every penny). Good luck. |
HI
The nut on the end of the metal pipe going into the flexi pipe can be a right sod to undo , I think they must have a sumo wrestler tightening them up in the factory , a proper brake spanner is the best thing to slacken them off as they as much thicker ans stronger than a normal spanner , a normal spanner will bend open and round off the nut. If you are at the stage where it has rounded off , then clamping mole grips on it firmly should undo it , we have had to resort to this a few times , but we have never failed to get them off , you need the right clamping force on the mole grips , not enough will cause the mole grips to slip , too much will crush the nut , so take your time with it and keep an eye on what its doing. Regarding the pad shims , they are only there to suppress noise , so its not the be all and end all to have them fitted , I prefer to run without them as it gives you a slightly spongier pedal feel with them fitted , I prefer to either put copper slip on the pads where the pistons touch , and some more on the ends of the pads , be careful not to get any on the actual pad surface otherwise your brakes won't work very well ! Or you can fit the sticky pads as in the link above. Squeel is usually caused by the pads vibrating in the calipers under use , so all your looking to do is dampen this happening , you can also bend the spring clip that holds the pads tight in the calipers , bending the clip with hold the pads tighter. Hope this helps Cheers Ian |
dremmel with a metal brush type wheel on it, clean all the crap out of the joint and soak as mentioned,
I had a pita on a classic once which again was a pain to flare, but a proper brake line spanner is a must imo if you want to even think of removing them. |
Thanks for all your replies. I'll certainly give them all a try.
One that ng in the top picture you will notice that the dust plate at the back has come off (fell to bits) well just how critical are they ie can you run without them cos there £109 + vat from subaru and I don't want to spend that kind of money if I don't have to Thanks Gary |
Originally Posted by sedge69
(Post 10800887)
Thanks for all your replies. I'll certainly give them all a try.
One that ng in the top picture you will notice that the dust plate at the back has come off (fell to bits) well just how critical are they ie can you run without them cos there £109 + vat from subaru and I don't want to spend that kind of money if I don't have to Thanks Gary Don't worry about it , you will have no issues running without it , those who fit the WRX 2 pot discs and calipers on the rears have to remove it to fit them on , and we have heard of no problems whatsoever from anyone Cheers Ian |
Mine has no dust covers front, or rear, and has no problems, plus it never traps a pebble between dust cover and disc any more.....
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That's cool I'll just take the other side off to match
THANKS GUYS |
Gary, sorry mate. I was sure I had a set of shims, but I can't find them anywhere. :(
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