Any tips for dismantling rear brakes on a classic?
06 March 2011, 10:58 AM
#1
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Any tips for dismantling rear brakes on a classic?
Nearside rear seems to be binding, I can hear a rubbing noise in the car, and the disc is getting very hot! I have never had the rears apart, is it a difficult job? What about the handbrake mechanism? how does the caliper come off? etc etc, any help/advice appreciated!
Also, can anyone point me to an online diagram of the area to take a look at?
Should point out, its an MY00 turbo.
Also, can anyone point me to an online diagram of the area to take a look at?
Should point out, its an MY00 turbo.
06 March 2011, 12:13 PM
#2
TBH, if you aren't confident with brakes, I'd get someone who knows to help or have a look.
Park car, leave handbrake OFF, chock BOTH front wheels.
Jack up car and remove road wheel.
The caliper is TWO bolts, one top, one bottom, BOTH need soaking in WD40 for a few hours, maybe do this the day before? You can see the bolts from underneath the rear.
Now undo both bolts, ease caliper away and tie it to the spring through one of the bolt holes, so as to avoid undue stress on the brake pipe. You MAY need a breaker bar on the spanner/socket to release them. Mine were done by my lad who is a plater by trade, so pretty strong.
If you need the disc off, there are two holes M8, tapped in it's face, thread two M8 bolts in and turn each one a couple of turns at a time to force the disc off.
BUT: You MUST slack off the handbrake first: there is a small access point on the rear of the hub with a plastic cover. Remove said cover and wind the shoes off using a screwdriver on the notched wheel you'll see. Do a search for posts by Ian Godney in Braking etc for a diagram of how to do this if it becomes necessary.
Caliper: If the caliper's piston(s) is/are stuck, you'll need to force them out: refit caliper onto hub, no brake shoes. Slide ONE shoe into place on the NON-stuck side, stand on brakes to force other side out.
Good idea to refurb the caliper if pistons are stuck, it'll have to come off the brake pipe, use a proper spanner and a clamp on the brake line to avoid fluid loss.
Best of luck.
Park car, leave handbrake OFF, chock BOTH front wheels.
Jack up car and remove road wheel.
The caliper is TWO bolts, one top, one bottom, BOTH need soaking in WD40 for a few hours, maybe do this the day before? You can see the bolts from underneath the rear.
Now undo both bolts, ease caliper away and tie it to the spring through one of the bolt holes, so as to avoid undue stress on the brake pipe. You MAY need a breaker bar on the spanner/socket to release them. Mine were done by my lad who is a plater by trade, so pretty strong.
If you need the disc off, there are two holes M8, tapped in it's face, thread two M8 bolts in and turn each one a couple of turns at a time to force the disc off.
BUT: You MUST slack off the handbrake first: there is a small access point on the rear of the hub with a plastic cover. Remove said cover and wind the shoes off using a screwdriver on the notched wheel you'll see. Do a search for posts by Ian Godney in Braking etc for a diagram of how to do this if it becomes necessary.
Caliper: If the caliper's piston(s) is/are stuck, you'll need to force them out: refit caliper onto hub, no brake shoes. Slide ONE shoe into place on the NON-stuck side, stand on brakes to force other side out.
Good idea to refurb the caliper if pistons are stuck, it'll have to come off the brake pipe, use a proper spanner and a clamp on the brake line to avoid fluid loss.
Best of luck.
06 March 2011, 02:34 PM
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TBH, if you aren't confident with brakes, I'd get someone who knows to help or have a look.
Park car, leave handbrake OFF, chock BOTH front wheels.
Jack up car and remove road wheel.
The caliper is TWO bolts, one top, one bottom, BOTH need soaking in WD40 for a few hours, maybe do this the day before? You can see the bolts from underneath the rear.
Now undo both bolts, ease caliper away and tie it to the spring through one of the bolt holes, so as to avoid undue stress on the brake pipe. You MAY need a breaker bar on the spanner/socket to release them. Mine were done by my lad who is a plater by trade, so pretty strong.
If you need the disc off, there are two holes M8, tapped in it's face, thread two M8 bolts in and turn each one a couple of turns at a time to force the disc off.
BUT: You MUST slack off the handbrake first: there is a small access point on the rear of the hub with a plastic cover. Remove said cover and wind the shoes off using a screwdriver on the notched wheel you'll see. Do a search for posts by Ian Godney in Braking etc for a diagram of how to do this if it becomes necessary.
Caliper: If the caliper's piston(s) is/are stuck, you'll need to force them out: refit caliper onto hub, no brake shoes. Slide ONE shoe into place on the NON-stuck side, stand on brakes to force other side out.
Good idea to refurb the caliper if pistons are stuck, it'll have to come off the brake pipe, use a proper spanner and a clamp on the brake line to avoid fluid loss.
Best of luck.
Park car, leave handbrake OFF, chock BOTH front wheels.
Jack up car and remove road wheel.
The caliper is TWO bolts, one top, one bottom, BOTH need soaking in WD40 for a few hours, maybe do this the day before? You can see the bolts from underneath the rear.
Now undo both bolts, ease caliper away and tie it to the spring through one of the bolt holes, so as to avoid undue stress on the brake pipe. You MAY need a breaker bar on the spanner/socket to release them. Mine were done by my lad who is a plater by trade, so pretty strong.
If you need the disc off, there are two holes M8, tapped in it's face, thread two M8 bolts in and turn each one a couple of turns at a time to force the disc off.
BUT: You MUST slack off the handbrake first: there is a small access point on the rear of the hub with a plastic cover. Remove said cover and wind the shoes off using a screwdriver on the notched wheel you'll see. Do a search for posts by Ian Godney in Braking etc for a diagram of how to do this if it becomes necessary.
Caliper: If the caliper's piston(s) is/are stuck, you'll need to force them out: refit caliper onto hub, no brake shoes. Slide ONE shoe into place on the NON-stuck side, stand on brakes to force other side out.
Good idea to refurb the caliper if pistons are stuck, it'll have to come off the brake pipe, use a proper spanner and a clamp on the brake line to avoid fluid loss.
Best of luck.
TBH I managed to replace my own rear brake pads so it can't be that difficult.
J.
06 March 2011, 03:31 PM
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Thanks for the advice both of you, Ive done lots of brakes over many years, just not the rears on a Subaru!, so Im OK with the generals, I just wondered if their was any particular wrinkle in them to be aware of. The handbrake adjusting thingy is an exaple of what I mean, wasnt aware that was there!
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