ajsscooby

iTrader: (5)

Incase anyone is thinking of refurbing their Subaru 4 pot calipers but isn't sure what they are letting themselves in for, here are some of my learnings/tips :-) after spending last weekend (-1C) doing mine.


Clean the brake line banjo joint/caliper union before undoing, undo banjo bolt & wrap the end of the brake line tightly with cling film to reduce amount of air that can get into system (and reduce brake fluid dripping on to drive)

I wasted lots of time getting the pad retaining pins out when I should have just unbolted the calipers (2 x bolts 17mm spanner) and brake lines first, THEN removed pins & pads when the calipers were on the bench.


De-rust where the pads live and give the calipers a good clean before removing the old pistons (reduces the amount of crap that will fall into the cylinders). Make sure new pads slide in easily before continuing. Final clean/blow out fluid passages.

Removing the old seals - I used a bent nail gripped with pliers to hook out the seals, worked like a charm!

Dip new seals in brake fluid before inserting.

Thin smear of supplied brake grease on bottom edge of pistons helps them slide right in past the new seals :-)

Thin smear of supplied brake grease to inside edge of dust covers where they touch pistons.

When all seals are fitted and spring clips fitted wipe them over using clean paper towel & brake cleaner to get all grease off (reduces the amount of brake dust that will stick to them).


Changing Discs? Clean any rust from the hub face, clean grease off new discs using brake cleaner, put discs on hub (may need to put a wheel nut on just to hold them in place)

Re-fit caliper, I don't know what torque to use (don't have a torque wrench anyway) but the spanner needed 3 hefty blows with big hammer to undo the bolts so I tightened them up as much as I could by hand then gave 3 hefty blows with same hammer Perhaps someone can advise a more scientific method?

Thin smear of copper grease to the back of the pads, then shim 1 (with the slots in), thin smear of copper grease, then shim 2 (with the piston imprints).

Slide in pads, fit pins, anti rattle plate & pin retaining wire.


Bleed brakes all round.

One last check of pins, retainer wire, caliper bolts.
Wheels back on, let scooby down and take it for a GENTLE drive, easy on the gas until you are confident that the brakes work properly!!!


Disclaimer - Info given for free so no refunds allowed:-) If anyone thinks I missed something / got something wrong please add to the thread.

Cheers,

AJS

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Did you paint the calipers too? A couple of coats of Hammerite smooth helps keep them clean too, and stops rust.

ScoobP1

iTrader: (1)

How did you get the pistons out? Compressed air is the norm.

ajsscooby

iTrader: (5)

Did I paint them?

No - I didn't paint them, the original coating is pretty much intact so didn't need repainting (maybe next time).


How did I get the pistons out?

I gripped them with waterpump pliers & rotated/pulled them out. Only one was really stuck so I needed to fix the caliper back on car allowing me to get both hands on pliers and put in more effort (holding caliper in a vice would have been better).


Cheers,

AJS