i'm getting the car set up soon and i'm after tweeking the current set up a bit, are there any 'geo setters' on here that can offer some advice.

i appreciate alot of places will keep race settings a bit of a secret, but could they advise on fast road settings please

setting started at this



felt ok, but still wasn't quite as grippy all round as i wanted. it just gave good grip, then understeer and that was it.

then went to these settings



much better, with better front end grip and the rear was very planted aswell. downside is a tendancy for the back to get away a bit quickly on tighter corners, it oversteered a bit too aggresively.

in all this set up felt maybe a bit too extreme for my (lack of) driving skill.

so, is it possible to get my car with a small amount of understeer that leads into a neutral back end that at worst gives a small bit of oversteer?

my thinking is i can't have both? more grip up front will lead to less grip at the back, so it needs more grip at the rear? but this then leads to it breaking away when it gets past it's limits? or do i just need less grip all round to limit the effect of the 'snap' when it lets go?

all very confusing, anyone got any ideas?

cheers,
Paul

 

Might be worth looking at increasing your front bar rate and fitment of a rear subframe lock kit would help to keep the rear geometry consistant

 

is that an uprated ARB and some sort of brace Zak?

i'll definately give you a call soon to get those rear shocks changed, just haven't seemed to be able to find the time to get it re-booked with you. bit embarrassing really given the time, but i will deffo be in touch

 

A larger front ARB may suit your requirements, iirc both front and rear's on yours are OEM?
The rear subframe is allowed to float a little on it's rubber bushing to limit NVH, trouble with this is that the rear lateral arms that dictate the rear suspension's geometry are secured to this - as it moves your rear geometry changes.
The chassis already has a location to secure the position of the rear subframe and Whiteline have a couple of bolts sold as 'rear subframe lock kit' for circa £20

 

A larger front ARB may suit your requirements, iirc both front and rear's on yours are OEM?
The rear subframe is allowed to float a little on it's rubber bushing to limit NVH, trouble with this is that the rear lateral arms that dictate the rear suspension's geometry are secured to this - as it moves your rear geometry changes.
The chassis already has a location to secure the position of the rear subframe and Whiteline have a couple of bolts sold as 'rear subframe lock kit' for circa £20

 

yeah it's all standard apart from the Prodrive springs. what's NVH mate?

the only thing i really don't want to do is compromise the every day ride of the car. if it makes it a really good handling car but it drives like it'll shake my fillings out that's not for me.

resonable handling and a smooth, non crashy ride and i'll be happy

 

All wasted if the struts are coming off, you'll have to start again.

Less rear toe should calm things down, IMHO. Mine was unstable in the wet with a similarly aggressive geometry set-up.

I would also advise that an adjustable rear ARB transformed my bug-eye.

IMHO.

dunx

P.S. Noise, Vibration & Harshness...

 

i agree 100% it's a bit daft getting the geo done twice, but there's a very noticable bit of extra wear on one of the tyres so i want that sorted as soon as possible.
the shocks can be done whenever i get the hump with them clonking

P.S. Noise, Vibration & Harshness... - what with the uprated ARB Dunx?

this is the only thing i'm hesitant about, all i want is the car to feel a bit less edgy without losing it's good grip levels.
the last thing i want is to make it a less comfortable ride than it is now, this year has been bad enough with the potholes, rutts and REO70's!

 

you dont mention if track or road car??
certainly for road i would personally leave the Geo pretty much as is BUT with approx 1mm of toe-in total.........from the settings you currently have toe-OUT on the rear which will give you the indtability your experiencing

alyn

 

OE suspension can be harsh (is it an STi). When I changed mine to AST struts the improvement in ride was an unexpected revelation as I thought it would be harder.

 

Not daft, but more expense...

On the stiffest setting transverse ridges can be felt quite harshly. Adjustable allows you to be family friendly all winter and turn it up for the summer.

dunx

 

pure road car Alyn.

so get the rear into the minus figures like the front and it'll be a bit more stable? is there much of a trade off with this option?

and what sort of degrees/minutes is about 1mm approx?

thing is though, it was less edgy with more toe out as it was before or is that the increase in front grip making the back twitchy?

steep learning curve this

cheers

 

What makes you think that, the settings illustrated on the picture above most definately provide toe-in.

I came across similar misinformation given by Dynamix recently so it'd be nice to set the record straight here; I've used a number of alignment rigs over the years and different manufacturer's make reference to what is a positive and what is a negative toe angle in different way's - perhaps this is the confusion?

 

maybe its the way the sttings are conferred Zak but toe-in is/was always referred to as a Negative.......if your saying their wrong then that means the front is toeing out??? as the figures for front clearly state a negative figure and the rear states a positive??

the actual figures for the rear state 0.02toe either side

confused alyn.......

 

Can't quite believe there is confusion amongst serious enthusiasts/mechanics about toe in or out messurement!!!!

Toe-in is positive +
Toe-out is negative -

If there is confusion, then at least know that the printed setup shows toe out on the front and the slightest bit of toe in on the rear. And it is almost exactly what I have on my classic.

to the O/P - I think you have a good alignment, if you are not happy with the handling look at other areas of chassis, such as good tyres, their pressures, consider changing anti-roll bar rates. That should alow enough scope for further tweeks without you feeling like you have wasted money on more alignments.

Kev