Nick B,

I think it's a StillAuto problem, they all seem to do it, i've also got the same problem on my SR500's, had 4 new tyres fitted and when they were balancing the wheels 3 were buckled, now I haven't hit any pot holes too hard or jumped my car or whacked it up on kerbs, it seems like they are very fragile.

They were fine on a track day, seems the buckle is only noticable at certain speeds but its a pain in the ****.




[Edited by TBMeech - 4/2/2002 2:40:42 PM]

 

I am running 17" Stilauto SR500 wheels with Toyos Proxy tyres. Whilst I live in an area where I think they did a group buy on Speed Humps and Roadworks, I always approach such obstacles with care. However I am aware that the constant bunmping can't do the wheels any good.

After the last trye change I noticed a serious wheel balance problem - took it to the garage for a re-balance and they pointed out two buckled wheels. The problem appears to be getting worse as on a recent trip down to Spain I noticed that if you hit a minor bump on the motorway the wheel balance again shifted slightly.

The questions:
1) Is this usual?
2) Is there likely to be some kind of metal fatigue setting in from constant bumping leading to the motorway problem above?
3) Given that its cheaper to get different wheels rather than move, can anyone suggest any makes of particularly strong wheels?

Cheers,
Nick

 

1) It's not unusual that wheels buckle, but it all comes down to what sort of wheels you are running. Most quality wheels will stay true if they're not driven into major potholes, but some wheels are more likely to warp than others: Cheap wheels (might be your case), wheels that are simply too light for their own good (OZ Superleggera among others).

2) As you descibe the motorway driving and the balnce changing there is bound to be some metal fatigue. When metal like in a car wheel is bent some fatique appears at once and the more it's bent back and forth the weaker the wheel will get. Wheels aren't supposed to be bent back and forth like the steel in coil-springs.

3) Strong wheels - Buy motorsport wheels that the Rally-teams use: Compomotive, Speedline and Raceline are three brands that won't buckle. I have Compomotive MO 8x18 with 225/35/18 tires and after 2 years they're as straight as the day I got them. Only downside is poor surface finish, but you could have them refirbished after a year or so as that's cheap in the UK.

Hope this helps.

 

Spit & polish are sorting out 2 flat spots on my wheels for £20 each.

Mark A

 

Remove the wheels from the car............
Hit the flatted rim with a large rubber/plastic mallet

Works a treat

Darren

 

Thanks all - I like Darren's suggestion for budget fixing

Sigmund - thanks for the feedback - I didn't expect technical advice all the way from Norway!!!!

Regards
Nick

 

im thinking of getting some team dynamics monza 17s - these have lots of spokes that radiate out to the rim, whereas other wheels that might have just 5 thin spokes might be more prone to buckling? just a theory!

 

Sigmund makes some good points.

I had my road wheels and track wheels changed last week and was not happy to find one of my Radius R3 wheels with quite a significant buckle that must be straightened, and one with just a slight one. One of my track wheels, Motorsport RZX, was also slightly out.

People say they buy fancy alloys so they can take advantage of low-profile tyres, but the manufacturers know that it's really just cosmetic vanity and style takes priority.

Richard.

 

Anyone got the no. for Spit and Polish?

 

Contact for Spit & Polish, or other good alloy repairers?

Thanks,

Richard.

 

I found their no. eventually

Spit & Polish: 01732 367771

 

I wouldn't spend money on a wheel that has been buckled for these two reasons:

1. When it has been buckled it is weaker than it was before no matter how it's fixed. So it will buckle again probably.
2. A wheel that buckles isn't good enough so buy some stronger ones.

 

Depends what u use it for tho, If you use a wheel for the road maybe, but if you use it for track days you won't notice anyway

 

Agree with Sigmund, and I am not happy having to have my wheels straightened. It cannot make them any stronger, and it's a bl00dy nuisance.

Bloke in the know told me there ain't any such thing as a buckle-proof wheel and reckoned that most buckles are caused without the driver even knowing, when you run up a kerb on the inside edge of the wheel, putting huge leverage on the spokes which are only fixed to the outside edge. And the bigger and wider the wheel, obvioulsy the more prone they become.

How do you choose a strong wheel? Price, brand, design, weight? Any specific recommendations in 17x7in?

Cheers,

Richard.