Can anybody give me basic instructions on fitting replacement rear discs / pads to a MY00 Turbo?

Thanks,

Ian.

 

Ian, not more brake problems mate, are you sure you not pressing the wrong peddle too often? i remember smelling your brakes for the last 10 miles or so on NM6 and you ended up with warped front discs then. Sorry i can't give you any advice on changing your rears but i don't think it should be too difficult. Good luck mate. Ady.

 

Ady,

Rear pads need replacing and the discs are in a right state (rust) so thought I might as well swap 'em at the same time. Even after a longish run the braking surface on the disc does not clean off.

Fronts seem ok now. When I was on the NM run the Mintex pads had only been on for a couple of hundred miles and the front discs were very badly warped. I got Bremsport Group N discs fitted which cured things for a while. Unfortunately one of the pistons was sticking which meant a pad was been forced onto the disc - and I then had to buy a new set of pads.

Cheers,

Ian.

 

Ian, is'nt your warranty still valid? if so get your discs replaced under warranty and you will have to pay for your own pads, then you won't have to worry about fitting them yourself. Sorted, assuming your car isn't an import.

 

My cars is a Dutch import so is out of warranty.

 

Or well, back to the top then, Come on some one must be able to help. Silly question, are you going to the Big one, if so which meet up point will you be at, and what time ???

 

Ady,

Not sure if I can make the Big One - will know nearer the time. Might be fitting rear discs / pads if someone gives me a clue

Cheers,

Ian.

 

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Ian

Easy peasy mate! (based on MY95) Remove wheel and undo the two caliper bolts to allow removal of the caliper mechanism. rest that on the back of the hub, to ensure it doesn't swing free and damage the brake line. With the caliper free you can get to the pads which may need to be prised out with a screw driver or similar tool (they are old so don't worry about damaging).

Cracking the caliper bolts may be tricky doe to the confined space - I used a standard socket set and actually stood on the handle to provide the force - just be careful it doesn't slip off the bolt. Once the caliper is out of the way, you can remove the disc which is just slotted onto the hub. RELEASE the handbrake before you try to get it off - I used a lump hammer to bang the disc from the back as it was rusted in place.

Fit the new disc onto the hub. Fit the new pads into the caliper and screw in the top caliper bolt. This will allow the caliper to swing into place over the rest of the caliper - you will probably need to push the pistons in a bit, using a screw driver as a lever or a vice / clamp thing if you have one. Then swing the caliper into place and insert the lowerr bolt.

If you can get hold of some copper eaze, this can help stop squealing and disipate heat from the caliper. I didn't bother.

Problems I had:
1. Some bolts were tight, but I managed to undo them ok
2. Tried to remove disc with handbrake on
3. Tried to undo bolts on off side the wrong way (i.e. was tightening them not loosening)!!!

Otherwise, it was straight forward but took an hour and a half.

Paul

 

For piccies & more blurb, look here

 

Paul / Tom,

Many thanks for the advice . I've been away over Easter so just seen your posts.

I'll hopefully get the replacement discs/pads early this week so it looks like a job for next weekend.

Cheers,

Ian.