mgcvk

Can someone give me a quick idiots guide for removing Brembo caliper to change my disks. I've got the standard Subaru 2 pots on the back so presume procedure will be similar front and rear? Cheers in advance.

Glen843

Hi mate,
I have just replaced the Brembo discs and pads on the front of my STI at the weekend. I was advised that it would take a couple of hours but in reality it took double that as every bolt was seized and i spent i great deal of time swearing but i saved a packet got a certain amount of self satisfaction.I used the vehicle jack and a couple of bricks as wheel chocks.Sorry if at any point you find it a bit basic,it isn't a complicated job in reality.Here is what i did....
Jack the car up and remove the wheel. Take the cap off your brake fliud reservoir.
On the rear of the caliper there are 2 retaining pins that hold the pads in. These are slotted through the rear of the caliper and these pins are held in place by 2 small steel angled R-clips that. Pull these 2 little pins out with pliers and the large pad retaining pins should pull out (remove from caliper towards the engine) with a bit of persuasion from pliers and tapping the end of the pin. Removing these will then enable you to take the sprung steel cross shaped plate off and this will reveal the pads.
You will have to push the pistons back into the calipers to free up space for there removal and the best way is with your hands by squeezing the pads into the calipers or by careful use of a large flat screwdriver.The pads and anti-squeal shim can now be taken out (take note of how the anti-squeal shim sits on the pad). This can take some time if the brakes haven't been replaced before. I found the outer pad and both anti-squeal shims came out easily but the inside pad was a b*tch on both sides. (I used pliers and a screwdriver wrapped in cloth to lever the troublesome ones).
Once the pads are out you need to remove the caliper from the car and this is done by unscrewing the 2 bolts on the inside of the wheel arch that hold them on to the suspension. These can be a nightmare and will be very tight and hard to access. Once the calipers are off the discs will only be connected via the brake line. The discs is now free to come off. It isn't held on by anything other than the wheel so with a bit a persuasion it'll come off. The hard work is now done!!
At this point i'd advise a bit of a clean of the hub, caliper and anti-squeal shim. Before you put the new disc on use a bit of copper slip on the hub and clean the disc with brake cleaner (try not to get the disc dirty from now on). While the caliper is relatively free it is worth while pushing the 4 pistons back into the calipers taking care not to damage the rubber seals. This will allow as much room as possible for the new pads to slot in (this is why the cap is off your brake reservoir to allow for the expansion).
Once the pistons are flush mount the caliper back on and tighten the 2 bolts. I recommend copper slipping the back of the pads/squeal shim before replacement, works for me.
Next is the large flat sprung plate that sits accross them which is held in place by the 2 retaining pins. Push the 2 steel R-clips back on making sure they are orientated correctly.
Wheel on and tighten ya nuts to 65ft.Ib or 88nm. Job done, now the other side.Don't forget your bedding in proceedure.
Hopefully i haven't missed anything. Have fun, Glen

mgcvk

Thanks mate. Thats a very good guide. I did my pads on the front a couple of weeks ago - again with much swearing - which is when I realised my disks were in a worse state than I thought. Do I have to take the pads out again to remove the caliper or can I just unbolt the caliper with the pads still in and slide off the disk to replace with new one? Ta!

jonny_693

iTrader: (5)

Not really an answer to your question but i spent 4 hours doing front disks and pads on sunday afternoon. everything was perfect, disks back on, everthing clean then realised i'd been given the wrong pads.
Theres a lesson to be learnt here lol good luck mate

Glen843

At least it isn't me that spends hours swearing at my car........
mgcvk you'll be fine to take the caliper off with discs in situ but be careful not to damage the edges.
I've just got my hands on some Ferodo DS2500's for the back and now just need the discs but that'll be next month ££££££££££
Gotta say the set up i've fitted on the front seems to be very good, even from cold. DS2500 pads and Xspec discs. Going to change the brake lines to braided next month when the service is due (more money)

D1CCY

Make sure you support the calipers when unbolted so brake lines are not strained.

Caliper bolts are a pig to undo, I'd recommend a flat ring spanner (19mm IIRC) and 4 lb club hammer, not subtle.

Subaru torque figure for caliper bolts is 114 lb-ft but Alyn thinks this is excessive and recommends 75 lb-ft which he uses on Grp N cars so its good enough for me. Maybe worth putting a bit of medium strength thread lok on when replacing.

st33ly

Well tried doing mine. fronts on my sti where done yest and this morning attempted the rear. Now on my passenger side rear bolts have sheared and i can't get the calliper of at all or drive the thing as it's loose. Am stuck what do i do?????

D1CCY

Afraid you'll have to contact a specialist or dealer and get it trailored to their premises. They'll have to cut between caliper and hub or drill to remove enough broken bolt to get caliper off and then clean up the mess. Might cost you a new caliper.

That's the problem with DIY when it goes sour, I had a damaged bolt in my NSF Brembo that damaged the caliper thread that left me with the same dilemma although the other bolt was ok for a careful drive to Scoobyclinic.

st33ly

Thanks for the reply mate. Was going to do the other drivrs side rear but then thought bugger it! Need to wait till next week before someone can look at it. Was going to take it to kwick fit this morning but decided not to let the monkeys touch it.