When do I replace my brake pads?
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The article in the recent True Grip on replacing pads and discs has made me consider doing this job myself, but I need to know when to do it.
When should brake pads be replaced? By this I mean roughly how thick will the braking material bit of the pad be when they need replacing?
Can they (theoretically) go right down to the back plate before they become ineffective?
Same question for the discs - how do you know when they need replacing?
When should brake pads be replaced? By this I mean roughly how thick will the braking material bit of the pad be when they need replacing?
Can they (theoretically) go right down to the back plate before they become ineffective?
Same question for the discs - how do you know when they need replacing?
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Disks when they have a lip on the edge, scored, warped etc.
Pads, tuffer one. Don't let them get too low or they may over heat and go bang. When they get beyond a certain point you will probably notice a decrease in braking efficiency.
P.
Pads, tuffer one. Don't let them get too low or they may over heat and go bang. When they get beyond a certain point you will probably notice a decrease in braking efficiency.
P.
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From: Where age and treachery reins over youthful exuberance
Pads - would feel uncomfortable letting them go lower than 3mm. It depends how you use them, but at this depth they would only last a few laps on a track day. On the road, again depending on use, they could go on for ages but is it worth the risk?
One of the problems when they get low is it's hard to check the inner pads but dangerous to assume they wear the same as the outers. So best to change them anyway.
When pads are well worn, the compound doesn't work as efficiently as new. After every heat cycle, the pad compound changes and doesn't reform in exactly the same molecular structure. Also, you'll have less heat-soak and when the pads are low, the pistons (pots) are at full extension and cannot control even contact so well. It can make the pedal feel soggy, as if you've over-headed the fluid. You've still got good braking there, but a soft pedal, especially on a track day or when pushing hard, will destroy your confidence.
I'm now a commited Ferodo fan. DS2000 for fast-road, DS2500 for fast-road and track. There's nothing better (although I will freely admit there are others as good).
Richard.
One of the problems when they get low is it's hard to check the inner pads but dangerous to assume they wear the same as the outers. So best to change them anyway.
When pads are well worn, the compound doesn't work as efficiently as new. After every heat cycle, the pad compound changes and doesn't reform in exactly the same molecular structure. Also, you'll have less heat-soak and when the pads are low, the pistons (pots) are at full extension and cannot control even contact so well. It can make the pedal feel soggy, as if you've over-headed the fluid. You've still got good braking there, but a soft pedal, especially on a track day or when pushing hard, will destroy your confidence.
I'm now a commited Ferodo fan. DS2000 for fast-road, DS2500 for fast-road and track. There's nothing better (although I will freely admit there are others as good).
Richard.
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From: Where age and treachery reins over youthful exuberance
Chris, cracked the standard discs at Donington, warped a pair of Bremsport discs at Donington. Bu99er that. I now run APR 6-pots with 330x28mm discs with alloy bells. I've tried my best to warp these but have so far failed miserably. They're still as good as new 
Am I doing something wrong 
Richard.
[Edited by Hoppy - 1/22/2002 2:03:23 PM]
Am I doing something wrong Richard.
[Edited by Hoppy - 1/22/2002 2:03:23 PM]
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