Tuscan_Phil

That's what I'm trying to avoid!

Just about to have a crack at changing the rear struts on my 98 WR Sport and see I'll need to bleed the brakes when I'm done.

What's the best bleed kit?

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Bleed kit? Ask at a car shop, they used to sell a length of rubber hose with one end plugged and a slit near that end.

It acted like a one way valve, so you could pump and NOT have to close the bleed screw, but you still need a helper to see if any bubbles are coming out.

Just leave the lid off the brake master cylinder and top up frequently, it's dead easy.

Alcazar

BTW: if you don't take the brake calipers off, ie: leave 'em connected, there will not be a need to bleed, AFAIK.

Tuscan_Phil

cheers alcazar.

That's what I'm not sure about.....I've read to replace the rear struts, I'll need to bleed the brakes afterwards and then I've read another 'how to' guide which just mentions unclipping the brake line from the strut.

Can you tell me which is correct please before I make a right royal c@ckup?

thanks

awd wrx

as far as I remember the hose just unclips from the arm , its not on the strut on the rear ?? it is fitted to the front strut though

Biggs

iTrader: (14)

You wont need to bleed the brakes unless the brake line has been disconnected at any point,but if you do remove the caliper then pump the brake pedal a few times once its refitted..to get your hard pedal back

Tuscan_Phil

thank you gents

Off to Halfords to get some axle stands and some spring compressors.....

This is where I'm going to reveal my level of competence (anyone can undo a nut and bolt, can't they?!).

If I have the rear quarter up on the jack, where do I position the stand? Is it obvious?

Graz

The stands go on the jacking points ideally. You'll need a trolley jack to raise the car from the middle. The diff is the normal point for using a trolley jack on the rear.

Hakon

You shouldn't need the spring compressor, I bought some when I installed my AGX struts on Eibach springs but didn't need them.
If the brake hose holder on the strut doesn't unclip you can cut a slot allowing you to bend the holder and remove the hose.
The nuts/bolts attatching the strut to the hub may be rather stiff, I couldn't undo just one on mine, it needed a 2m extension to the spanner and the mechanic hanging off the end to get it off !
Hope it helps

Hakon

StickyMicky

will need the compressor for standard springs, but lowered springs don't normally need one in my previous experiences

james-wrx

Sorry to hijack why do you need a spring compressor ?
I thought the strut just goes straight on, is it because of the distance between the top and bottom of the strut not lining up with the bolt holes !?

Kevin Groat

Struts don't come with springs attached and you need to use the old top mounts (or buy new ones). The stut is fitted as an entire strut/spring/top mount unit so you need to build the strut/spring/top mount first.

Standard springs will need a compressor to fit as they're a good couple of inches longer than the lowered ones.

I did end up using the spring compressors, not to build they KYB/Eibachs, but to help get the rear struts fitted to the car. It's a bit of a struggle as the trailing arm and anti roll bar don't quite give enough clearance and the compressor was used to release some of the spring pressure to compress the unit a bit to help.

Jay m A

iTrader: (2)

IIRC the brake line passes through a hole in a tag on the side of the strut. So the 'book' way of doing it is to disconnect the hose from the caliper and pass it through the hole. But the easier method is to cut a slot in the tag, allowing you to remove the hose without the need to disconnect it.