My Fu*#ing Brakes Again.!!!!
#1
My Fu*#ing Brakes Again.!!!!
I really need some help........... My brakes are terrible.!!!!
When I got the car you could press the brakes and nothing would happen but if you re-applied them they were fine.!!!!
Here's the list of what I've done now.......... New discs and pads front, New pads rear, New Brake servo, Front and rear calipers freed up
It's still the same..... Not quite as bad but still doing it...... There's nothing worse than having no brakes at silly MPH.
Is this related to the ABS???? Sometimes the ABS thingy in the front left of the engine bay makes a strange noise but if you give it a little tap it stops and the ABS light goes out.
I think that I've bought a real lemon of a car but other than this the car is awesome. It's a 95 Turbo Wagon and all the brakes are standard.
Please help cos my laundry bill is getting silly now
Cheers JohnG
When I got the car you could press the brakes and nothing would happen but if you re-applied them they were fine.!!!!
Here's the list of what I've done now.......... New discs and pads front, New pads rear, New Brake servo, Front and rear calipers freed up
It's still the same..... Not quite as bad but still doing it...... There's nothing worse than having no brakes at silly MPH.
Is this related to the ABS???? Sometimes the ABS thingy in the front left of the engine bay makes a strange noise but if you give it a little tap it stops and the ABS light goes out.
I think that I've bought a real lemon of a car but other than this the car is awesome. It's a 95 Turbo Wagon and all the brakes are standard.
Please help cos my laundry bill is getting silly now
Cheers JohnG
#4
Are you saying that you have to pump the brake pedal before it bites? Does it do this more after going round corners?
Do you get vibration when braking, or clicking round corners?
If so check the wheel bearings, if they are worn or shot it allows the stub axle to wiggle about and since the brake disc is attached to this it forces the brake pads back into their holders. This means that the first time you press the brake pedal it pushed them back to where they should be and the second time it uses them!
Do you get vibration when braking, or clicking round corners?
If so check the wheel bearings, if they are worn or shot it allows the stub axle to wiggle about and since the brake disc is attached to this it forces the brake pads back into their holders. This means that the first time you press the brake pedal it pushed them back to where they should be and the second time it uses them!
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#9
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
I had a wheel bearing go and took the top off the ABS sensor because of the movement in the wheel... the ABS light came on and went out intermittantly... the pedel was inconsistent and would feel all over the place.. get yourself to a dealer and he'll be able to tell you by looking at his computer what the ABS light is coming on for.. that will be a good start as to where the problem is i.e. wheel it is.. then start investigating... a good one apparantly is that the ABS sensor wiring under the back seat can come undone or loose or even damaged... if you've had your rear seats out recently could be a place to start... but I would say go your dealer...
#10
Originally Posted by ALi-B
Are your back discs heavily grooved or lipped? And as above wheel bearing play will also cause pad knock back, which is why pedal travel decreases on the 2nd application immediately after the 1st application.
#11
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
They can make a difference, especially when accompanied by any runout and having new pads which are yet to bed in (500-100miles of gentle stop-start driving) which could compound the issue.
I better clarify - if the pedal travel the same distance on both applications, or does it travel further down before hitting resistance on one application of the pedal?
Or is you have the same pedal distance and pedal resistance just nothing happens first time?
I should add, if the fluid hasn't been bled and changed in 2years, it'll need doing. For the sakes of it, it may as well be done if its not known how old it is, as any air will make any problem seem worse. No need for the expense of fancy fluids, just a good a quality DOT4.
I better clarify - if the pedal travel the same distance on both applications, or does it travel further down before hitting resistance on one application of the pedal?
Or is you have the same pedal distance and pedal resistance just nothing happens first time?
I should add, if the fluid hasn't been bled and changed in 2years, it'll need doing. For the sakes of it, it may as well be done if its not known how old it is, as any air will make any problem seem worse. No need for the expense of fancy fluids, just a good a quality DOT4.
#12
Originally Posted by ALi-B
They can make a difference, especially when accompanied by any runout and having new pads which are yet to bed in (500-100miles of gentle stop-start driving) which could compound the issue.
I better clarify - if the pedal travel the same distance on both applications, or does it travel further down before hitting resistance on one application of the pedal?
Or is you have the same pedal distance and pedal resistance just nothing happens first time?
I should add, if the fluid hasn't been bled and changed in 2years, it'll need doing. For the sakes of it, it may as well be done if its not known how old it is, as any air will make any problem seem worse. No need for the expense of fancy fluids, just a good a quality DOT4.
I better clarify - if the pedal travel the same distance on both applications, or does it travel further down before hitting resistance on one application of the pedal?
Or is you have the same pedal distance and pedal resistance just nothing happens first time?
I should add, if the fluid hasn't been bled and changed in 2years, it'll need doing. For the sakes of it, it may as well be done if its not known how old it is, as any air will make any problem seem worse. No need for the expense of fancy fluids, just a good a quality DOT4.
#13
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Hmmm maybe still a servo assitance problem, first I would check is the vacuum hose to the brake servo.
For that year of car, I believe that the valve is located in the flexible section that fits to the servo, there will be a one way valve built into the hose - you can't see it, but you feel it somewhere in the middle. First, make sure its there (incase the hose may have been repalced - people fitting aftermarket hoses make this mistake quite often). Also make sure the vacuum hoses haven't collapsing under vacuum (engine running at idle) or are kinked.
Secondly, if you've loacted it, make sure it works, this means the hose will have to be removed. You should be able to blow through it in one direction, but not the other. If you can blow in both directions, its sticking and needs replacing.
For that year of car, I believe that the valve is located in the flexible section that fits to the servo, there will be a one way valve built into the hose - you can't see it, but you feel it somewhere in the middle. First, make sure its there (incase the hose may have been repalced - people fitting aftermarket hoses make this mistake quite often). Also make sure the vacuum hoses haven't collapsing under vacuum (engine running at idle) or are kinked.
Secondly, if you've loacted it, make sure it works, this means the hose will have to be removed. You should be able to blow through it in one direction, but not the other. If you can blow in both directions, its sticking and needs replacing.
Last edited by ALi-B; 09 June 2006 at 08:50 PM.
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