chris666

anyone had problems with comp brakes ?
bought the 17" kit last month.1 caliper was the wrong size and was rubbing on the top of the disk so had to be returned
now the same caliper is rattling(sp) ,all the pads are loose and make a noise
phoned comp brake who said they all do this because they are a race set up
and advised drilling a 8mm hole in each caliper and fitting a bolt to hold the pads tight.
now sold on the std brakes or they would have been back on and the comp brakes would be on their way back

essexboy30

iTrader: (1)

Yep i had rattling pads, but then it is the clearances needed for competition use.
Fit sticky back anti rattle pads to the back of the pads and all sorted! (Well almost, very very slight rattle on very bumpy roads).
Else pressure check valves, to maintain a constant pressure...

TAFF-RA

or use section of metal tube that fits between caliper where the pad retaining bolt fits. with inside dia enough for the bolt, and outside dia that fits the recess in pads. its easy and no more rattle for me.

tay05

I've got the noisy pad problem too, that i can live with. My problem is the pads are eating the disks like crazy. Brakes work really well though, just at this rate i'll be changing the disks before the pads!

chris666

the calipers have 2 bolts that hold the pads in. & the gap between the bolts & the top of the pad is around 1-2 mm with the tubes that were supplied fitted to the bolts.
if i fit bigger dia tubes so that the pads are tight will this not stop the pads from closing ?
thanks chris

Andy916

iTrader: (8)

I have the same problem with the 16" wheel kit (caliper with just one pad-retaining bolt). Fundamental problem is the lack of anti-rattle clips in the design. Workarounds seem to be:

1. fit residual valve in each front brake line near the caliper, which maintains a couple of lb pressure to hold the pad close to the disk. A motorsport thing really, as I understand it, to give immediate braking upon touching the pedal. Before I go ahead and fit these, does anyone know if there's a downside to using them on the road, and whether they're an effective solution?

2. sticky-back stuff to fix the pads to the pistons. Will require goo to be scraped off when changing pads, not ideal as I have separate track and road pads, and want to switch easily when necessary.

3. Fit thicker metal sleeve on pad-retaining bolt(s) to take up the clearance; ok, but if the clearance is there for thermal expansion reasons, removing that could cause issues under duress.

What I don't know is why anti-rattle clips were omitted from the design in the first place. I've had loads of bikes (road and race) which all have them, on basically similar 4-pot calipers, so there's nothing in the design which prevents their use.

Andy

Andy916

iTrader: (8)

Ok, if this is a snug fit when cold, isn't there a chance it could drag or seize when hot?

I'm wondering if a thin rubber sleeve around the standard metal sleeve might be better - heat-stable rubber such as that used on standard brake lines.

Of course, all these are poor substitutes for proper anti-rattle clips...

Andy

essexboy30

iTrader: (1)

Only sticks to the pad mate, not the caliper....
so just slide one set of pads in and one set out!

Andy916

iTrader: (8)

Anyone know a supplier of the sticky-back anti-rattle stuff?

Drawn a blank at all of my local shops.

Andy

chris666

drilled a hole through each caliper & pads @ the weekend
& put a long bolt in with lots of copper slip result !!
brakes are simply stunning & no rattling

rustybin

Trying to cure the problem and not quite brave enough to go drilling holes.

Found the anti-rattle pads at Hi-Spec...

http://www.hispecmotorsport.co.uk/an...l_products.htm

Yet to try them but thought others may be interested.

Andy916

iTrader: (8)

I got some anti-rattle pads in the end - thin hard self-adhesive rubber, not Mintex but similar I guess. They work pretty well if you put small rectangles on the caliper itself, where the pad rubs top and bottom and on the tangs opposite the pad-retaining pins. Just thick enough to take out most of the slop and it dampens the rattle almost completely. Haven't tried putting them on the back of the pad yet (I have 2 sets of pads, road and track).

Andy

rustybin

Anyone done any further work on this? I tried the sticky pad solution for a while and it was fine until I did a track day which seems to have been a bit much for the stick pads.

Mine are the single retaining bolt design. Has anyone got photos of anti rattle mods they have made?

Andy916

iTrader: (8)

Yup, for my single-pin calipers I got some thin scrap aluminium, cut a piece and wrapped it around the sleeve on the pin. This took up half the slack. Wrapped another layer around which gave a snug fit onto the pads. Then I put a few loops of lockwire right in the middle, in case the extra layers came loose. Has been silent ever since, and has done one trackday with heavy braking as well as road use. I checked after each trackday session and the extra heat caused no problems - no binding, no drag, no nothing.

Andy

rustybin

I'll have to have a play with that at the weekend. I didn't think there was that much slack around the pin but I'll have a go. I was getting on OK with just the stick pads but I reckon the trackday must have reduced their effectiveness.

Cheers

essexboy30

iTrader: (1)

I had the same, you will find that the pistons have cut a whole in the sticky pads and are contacting the pads again. plus the heat from the track will have killed the adhesive on the sticky pads.
is a bit of a short term solution.
i am surprised with the volume of clients that are using these for road use and very occasion track use, thet they don;t develop and sell a spring steel shim that takes the slack out. this could be removed prior to track use if wanted.