From Falken 512's to Toyo Proxes T1-R's
#1
From Falken 512's to Toyo Proxes T1-R's
Just got back from having the new tyres fitted at my local tyre shop.
After fitting I went for a 20 mile blast on the local B roads to see what these new boots were like.
Well, the diiference is staggering!. I used to try loads of different tyres on my R6 and found small differences in tyre makes for both track and road, but never as much as this. I'm a firm believer that people exagerate when talking about what tyres are better than others, so please belive me when I say it IS a night and day difference.
Heres is the chassis spec, which hasnt changed since using the Falkens
MY98 WRX
F = 22mm Zerosports Anti-Roll bar with whiteline poly bushes.
Solid drop links on to Aluminium arms
Standard shocks with lowered Eibach springs
335mm Godspeed Brakes
33psi tyre pressure
R = 22mm Zerosports Anti-Roll bar with whiteline poly bushes with Whiteline HD mounts.
PowerFlex Solid drop links
Standard shocks with lowered Eibach springs
2 pots with 290mm discs
30psi tyre pressure
Assume that everything is standard.
First of all, the cornering is amazing. The Falkens used to seem as the tyre wall was rolling too far under the rim and I would get loads of understeer. When lifting off during cornering I could induce some awesome oversteer.
The T1-R's just grip and I'm finding that the speed needed to induce either under/oversteer is alot higher. Still havent manged the understeer yet.
Braking. The car performs in exactly the same way. I haven't yet seen any noticeable difference, only time will tell.
Accelleration. I used to be able to drop the clutch and leave black lines with the Falkens, but not with these. Same stretch of road used and the car just goes, it just goes! This leaves me wondering if using the Falkens is easier on the box/clutch.
So, my verdict is this. It must be the side walls and the difference between 205/45/17 and 215/40/17 that is the biggest factor bewteen these 2 makes.
Anyway, stay well clear of the Falkens and go the Toyo Proxes T1-R route.
Well chuffed!!
Just wished I had listened 2 years ago about the Falkens.
After fitting I went for a 20 mile blast on the local B roads to see what these new boots were like.
Well, the diiference is staggering!. I used to try loads of different tyres on my R6 and found small differences in tyre makes for both track and road, but never as much as this. I'm a firm believer that people exagerate when talking about what tyres are better than others, so please belive me when I say it IS a night and day difference.
Heres is the chassis spec, which hasnt changed since using the Falkens
MY98 WRX
F = 22mm Zerosports Anti-Roll bar with whiteline poly bushes.
Solid drop links on to Aluminium arms
Standard shocks with lowered Eibach springs
335mm Godspeed Brakes
33psi tyre pressure
R = 22mm Zerosports Anti-Roll bar with whiteline poly bushes with Whiteline HD mounts.
PowerFlex Solid drop links
Standard shocks with lowered Eibach springs
2 pots with 290mm discs
30psi tyre pressure
Assume that everything is standard.
First of all, the cornering is amazing. The Falkens used to seem as the tyre wall was rolling too far under the rim and I would get loads of understeer. When lifting off during cornering I could induce some awesome oversteer.
The T1-R's just grip and I'm finding that the speed needed to induce either under/oversteer is alot higher. Still havent manged the understeer yet.
Braking. The car performs in exactly the same way. I haven't yet seen any noticeable difference, only time will tell.
Accelleration. I used to be able to drop the clutch and leave black lines with the Falkens, but not with these. Same stretch of road used and the car just goes, it just goes! This leaves me wondering if using the Falkens is easier on the box/clutch.
So, my verdict is this. It must be the side walls and the difference between 205/45/17 and 215/40/17 that is the biggest factor bewteen these 2 makes.
Anyway, stay well clear of the Falkens and go the Toyo Proxes T1-R route.
Well chuffed!!
Just wished I had listened 2 years ago about the Falkens.
#3
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Odd
I went the other way. Not sure if I have the same make of Falkens as you quote - but in the Dry I find Falkens far better. In the wet - Toyo's much, much better
I have 2 sets of wheels - I use Toyos in the wet and Falkens in the summer when its dryer- on track Falkens
I went the other way. Not sure if I have the same make of Falkens as you quote - but in the Dry I find Falkens far better. In the wet - Toyo's much, much better
I have 2 sets of wheels - I use Toyos in the wet and Falkens in the summer when its dryer- on track Falkens
#4
Scooby Regular
My Falkens are 452's ..... I think?? Not 512's - are they different?
Anyway, seem fine to me - and at about £60 a corner they've got to be better than TOYO's ............... if only because TOYO's wear out very quickly.
BTW you should NOT give tyres a 'blast' when you have just had them fitted!
Run them in man!!!!
Pete
Anyway, seem fine to me - and at about £60 a corner they've got to be better than TOYO's ............... if only because TOYO's wear out very quickly.
BTW you should NOT give tyres a 'blast' when you have just had them fitted!
Run them in man!!!!
Pete
#5
Originally Posted by ozzy
How much tread was left on your Falkens? Were the Toyo's scrubbed at all?
#6
Us hill climb boy racers recon that it takes about 250 miles of normal driving to 'condition' new tyres.
Serious types will have the road tyre shaved (or 'buffed') when new which entails cutting off 40% of the block depth. Run them 250 miles normal driving, and they are then ready....(right up Pete's street this one)
The Toyo side walls are very stable and I am not at all surprised they feel good.
All this is very seat of the pants and one mans 'ideal' can be another's disaster.
If it works for you, be happy!
Graham
Serious types will have the road tyre shaved (or 'buffed') when new which entails cutting off 40% of the block depth. Run them 250 miles normal driving, and they are then ready....(right up Pete's street this one)
The Toyo side walls are very stable and I am not at all surprised they feel good.
All this is very seat of the pants and one mans 'ideal' can be another's disaster.
If it works for you, be happy!
Graham
#7
The T1-R's take a good few miles of running in to perform at their best. You have got more to come yet I'm about to put my T1-Rs back on replacing the winter tyres now the weather is a little warmer.
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#9
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Agreed Falkens not so good in the wet but in the dry they are far better than Toyo's (on a fast scoob that is)
Overall I would probably opt for Toyo's dependent on price between the 2
Overall I would probably opt for Toyo's dependent on price between the 2
#10
Originally Posted by osterley
Agreed Falkens not so good in the wet but in the dry they are far better than Toyo's (on a fast scoob that is)
Overall I would probably opt for Toyo's dependent on price between the 2
Overall I would probably opt for Toyo's dependent on price between the 2
Also, whats a fast scoob? is around 350hp ok?
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350bhp is certainly reasonable
I'm going to check now the exact code on my Falkens
Just checked - mine are FK451's.
Interestingly though they react differently depending on which car you have them on. I have a set of 18 inch 215/35's on my sti my99 and they are great
I also have a set now on my wrx (later model) and they dont grip as well.............
I'm going to check now the exact code on my Falkens
Just checked - mine are FK451's.
Interestingly though they react differently depending on which car you have them on. I have a set of 18 inch 215/35's on my sti my99 and they are great
I also have a set now on my wrx (later model) and they dont grip as well.............
Last edited by osterley; 07 May 2006 at 11:59 AM.
#12
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i ran falken 512's on a Vectra sri (V6) and i found them to be very good, very progressive when pushed, but i also tried them on a Pug 306 xsi as well and they were cr*p, it was my guess that they worked better on heavier car's, not sure how that theory works on different scoobs though?
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