Excessive Brake Pedal Movement
#1
Excessive Brake Pedal Movement
Just thought I'd share my recent experience with this problem as I know a number of people have suffered similar symptoms. (Through the search function)
I have a Godspeed 4 pot 335mm big brake kit.
Took my car in for an MOT today and was told that it 'failed' as the brake pedal had "Insufficient reserve movement".
ie. The brakes were only operating when pedal gets close to floor.
Pumping the pedal would seem to get rid of the free play, but once released it would go back to having lots of pedal travel again.
I never paid it too much mind as there was still enough brake power to haul me to a standstill pretty sharpish - But now I come to think about it, the pedal travel has increased over time and the brake power - tailed off.
The general consensus from the forum discussions was that the brakes needed bleeding, which I did twice - with no effect.
There were no leaks and all lines are braided.
After much head scratching the problem was discovered.
As I sat in the car and operated the brake pedal my dad felt the caliper itself and stated that it was moving!!
Opposite side was the same.
The long and short of it was that the inner pads were seizing in the caliper body. So all that pedal movement was caliper mounting bracket and disk flex !!! and the pistons on one side having to move twice the usual distance. (Lucky I never stamped on hard enough to buckle the discs).
Pistons all A-OK with no corrosion.
The pads were always a snug fit in the caliper, but with a winters salty roads and brake dust they just seized in there solid. (Funny how it was both the inner ones)
After much persuesion they came out.
Took half a mill off the pad backing plate - each side - cleaned up and re-fitted with some copper grease.
The giveaway sign that they had been like this for some time was that the inner face of the disk was rusty looking - having had very little pad action.
Checked for free movement of fettled pads - then replaced wheels.
RESULT !!! Feels like a new car.....Starts braking with a gentle touch of the pedal and the power is back in shed loads with only small amount of pedal travel.
(It's funny how you don't notice something when it goes off slowly)
I'm sure I'd have noticed if I was a track day monster...But I'm not.
So there you go...Before you go shelling out for new master cylinders etc - Do a full strip down and clean up.
I'm gonna make it a regular personal check.
Will check again in spring and put new pads in.
Tim
I have a Godspeed 4 pot 335mm big brake kit.
Took my car in for an MOT today and was told that it 'failed' as the brake pedal had "Insufficient reserve movement".
ie. The brakes were only operating when pedal gets close to floor.
Pumping the pedal would seem to get rid of the free play, but once released it would go back to having lots of pedal travel again.
I never paid it too much mind as there was still enough brake power to haul me to a standstill pretty sharpish - But now I come to think about it, the pedal travel has increased over time and the brake power - tailed off.
The general consensus from the forum discussions was that the brakes needed bleeding, which I did twice - with no effect.
There were no leaks and all lines are braided.
After much head scratching the problem was discovered.
As I sat in the car and operated the brake pedal my dad felt the caliper itself and stated that it was moving!!
Opposite side was the same.
The long and short of it was that the inner pads were seizing in the caliper body. So all that pedal movement was caliper mounting bracket and disk flex !!! and the pistons on one side having to move twice the usual distance. (Lucky I never stamped on hard enough to buckle the discs).
Pistons all A-OK with no corrosion.
The pads were always a snug fit in the caliper, but with a winters salty roads and brake dust they just seized in there solid. (Funny how it was both the inner ones)
After much persuesion they came out.
Took half a mill off the pad backing plate - each side - cleaned up and re-fitted with some copper grease.
The giveaway sign that they had been like this for some time was that the inner face of the disk was rusty looking - having had very little pad action.
Checked for free movement of fettled pads - then replaced wheels.
RESULT !!! Feels like a new car.....Starts braking with a gentle touch of the pedal and the power is back in shed loads with only small amount of pedal travel.
(It's funny how you don't notice something when it goes off slowly)
I'm sure I'd have noticed if I was a track day monster...But I'm not.
So there you go...Before you go shelling out for new master cylinders etc - Do a full strip down and clean up.
I'm gonna make it a regular personal check.
Will check again in spring and put new pads in.
Tim
#4
Originally Posted by stockcar
if your MOT tester had done his job properly he would have advised of the corrosion on the rear faces of the discs??
He did....Kind of......Comment about this came on form VT32.
No advice or recommendations though.
Asked to speak to the tester for his thoughts on the problem....It is a Subaru Garage where it's been regularly serviced for all 9 years of its life afterall !!
He was too busy to see me
Anyway,
Checked the inside of those discs since the 'fix' and they're polishing up nicely - so no permanent damage done - PHEEWW
RICE ROCKET - Good luck mate..Hope it works out for you.
Isn't it typical that if you need to work on the car its always freezing an chucking it down
Tim
#5
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: East Yorkshire
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I clean up my brakes about every 6 months. Pull the pads out and get a toothbrush and clean all the dirt out of the calliper, remove any stuck on crud at the ends of the pads, and give it nice fresh copper grease. Always works wonders.
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