Any suggestions where to get a set-up of better brakes than the 4 post Sti V3 stock brakes that will still get inside the Sti V3 16'' rims?
Any info appreciated!
Graham

 

Graham i think you already know the answer to this one.

305mm AP 4 pots if you want the best, or maybe a set of stoptech or as it's a competition car and not to many road miles wilwoods are good we use them on our rally car to good effect.

 

Thankyou!
I thought that there may be something I had missed...
Graham

 

stoptech are excellent but not available for 16" wheels. So go with APs with some good pads. You may need to experiment with pads to get that good initial bite on the hill. Having said that i would think with the right pads and better discs, the subaru 4 pots will be very positive as they are steel and nice and stiff. I would also get a brake master cylinder support, they really work. If you don't beleive me, get someone to press hard on the brakes while you look at the master cylinder!

 

!
Paul, I thought they were marketing bling!
I was on the track of bigger discs and brakets to move the stock calipers (for reasons you state) out to match.
I think Pagid 19 all round are next even if i stay on stock brakes.(have crappy Green Stuff at the moment)

The master cylinder brackets are cheap so will take your advice.

Thanks!, Graham

 

I can definatly recommend the support bracket

 

Where from nowadays?
Havn't even seen one on Eb@y
Graham

 

I can vouch for the 305mm (or was it 310mm?) AP kit. Very effective.

I thought it used to be MRT in Australia who sold the brake support brackets. Not sure if they still sell them. I think Scoobymania used to sell them here in the UK also.

 

If you're handy with metal work, make your own bracket Graham.

I think RON did this ....

 

... he did - http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthrea...=brake+support

 

Pics now dissapeared, but I'm ok with the metal work stuff.
A nice weekend project!
Thanks. Graham.

 

Hi Graham

We've just put DS3000's in our pug and the difference is astounding !!

They work brilliantly from cold, utterly amazing when hot and have no fade !

The only other additions were 5.1 fluid and braided hoses ... could be worth a try


Cheers

Adam

 

I have a cusco jobbie on mine

http://www.cuscoshop.co.uk/acatalog/gc8.html

£60 won't break the bank but if you can knock one up then great.

 

MRT still do them, but Scoobymania don't list it on their site

LHD


RHD

 

Quite a difference in design. The Cusco looks easy in comparison.
Should only cost about £3 tops DIY!
Thanks for the pics.
Graham.

 

Adam, when you say cold do you mean that? ie ambient.
Graham

 

Of relevance here is:

http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=309251

I can vouch for Adam's 205 with DS3000's, having driven one session at Brunters last Saturday and ridden in it on the road this week (<5 degC).

Graham - I know you have talked about unsprung weight in the past, and you are partly to blame for me now running 16" Rays Volks! I ran them for the first time last Saturday (WRX at Bruntingthorpe) and it did feel to accelerate quicker than the previous time. They weigh 14kg compared to 17kg for my Rota 17's (both measurements include T1S tyre). Handled lovely too, although I didn't have the Rotas on hand for a direct comparison.

Anyway, I mention weight in this thread because the standard brakes are heavy too:

2-pot caliper 5kg (not sure about the 4-pot)
front disk also 5kg

Anyone know rough weights of the various ally calipers on the market? I'm guessing I may be able to save proportionally more than I did on the wheels by running ally calipers and two-piece disks.

Andy

 

Aluminium alloy is about 50% of steel, but they are bigger in size to get rigidity and heat soak/dissipation.

One of the reasons I use 16's is that you can get a better range of competition tyres in 16's.

Graham.

 

Wouldn't you benefit moving to 17s? Lower profile (40/45) should be a fair bit firmer. That will allow you to use bigger brakes also.

I've found 215/40/17s to handle better than 205/50/16s.


Bob

 

But Kumho do not do the killer V700 in soft compound, only medium and hard.
Ive got some medium and they are still road legal after 7000 miles, not good (too hard).

Graham.

 

Graham

Still slightly early days for a complete and accurate picture but, put them
in on Saturday (brand new) for the track and was (still am) amazed at how
well they performed. Have been running the car daily since and had no
problems ... that said they are not quite as good from frozen

... but it would *appear* that this is not heat related as such given that just
a couple of three very light stops and truely insane braking returns. These
first few stop seem to be about what you would expect from normal road
pads.

The interesting thing was that after bruntingthorpe even the next morning
first thing they were jaw droppingly good from thew very first press
... prolly all to do with running them so hard on track.

All the above has been of great interest to me as I need new pads on the
scoob

Cheers

Adam

 

I've never believed in these things but as a lover of a firm pedal I thought I'd try measuring the master-cylinder deflection.

So I attached my trusty dial gauge and pressing the brake pedal much harder than I ever need to (guess about 80kg) I measured a mighty 40 thou or 1mm movement.

Compared to the travel already in the pedal I don't think thats significant. I guess some cars have softer pedal mountings than others so I'd say don't bother with the bracket unless you can see a significant deflection, and if you can the first thing to check is that the pedal box is fitted properly. Most of the pedal force is taken by a beam inside the car and not by the bulkhead.

 

Thanks Duncan. I thought this thread was done for.
Probably will still do it for a bit of DIY as I'm bored already!
Graham.