Changing pads on 4 pot?
#1
Anyone got instructions or tips on how to change the pads on my standard 4 pots?
Anything to look out for, tools required, etc.?
Cheers,
Andy
PS. I know this has been covered before. BUT I've had a quick search through past posts, but can't find anything relating to 4 pots.
Anything to look out for, tools required, etc.?
Cheers,
Andy
PS. I know this has been covered before. BUT I've had a quick search through past posts, but can't find anything relating to 4 pots.
#2
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Wheels off on level surface car in gear etc safety first! Take the clips off the inside aspect of the two pins, and slide out the pins, along with the scroll shaped metal plate. Then push the pads out. Push the pistons back in. Put new pads in after copper greasing the backing plate where it contacts the pistons. Clean the two pins you removed earlier, and replace through the holes on the backing plate, resecuring the metal scroll as you go and refitting the clips. Check all is right and double check. Then replace wheels. Pump brake pedal and make sure normal pressure resumes, drive cautiously until you know they work properly. Bed in pads as per instructions. No need to bleed brakes etc.
Usual disclaimers. Also wear some plastic gloves.
Usual disclaimers. Also wear some plastic gloves.
#3
<<Also wear some plastic gloves.>>
But I thought getting dirty was part of the fun
Cheers John for that info. Very concise. However, can you (or anyone else?) elaborate as to which bits are tricky/stiff and which bits dismantle easily. I don't know about anyone else, but it's always a confidence thing as to whether I'm doing something right (and it's just requires a bit of force) OR I'm doing it wrong (and I could break something!)
Cheers,
Andy
But I thought getting dirty was part of the fun
Cheers John for that info. Very concise. However, can you (or anyone else?) elaborate as to which bits are tricky/stiff and which bits dismantle easily. I don't know about anyone else, but it's always a confidence thing as to whether I'm doing something right (and it's just requires a bit of force) OR I'm doing it wrong (and I could break something!)
Cheers,
Andy
#4
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Location: 32 cylinders and many cats
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The pins come out with some pressure with the Subaru screwdriver on the bit you removed the small retaining clips. Sometimes the other end then needs a pull with pliers.
Sometimes getting the pads out is tricky if they are all caked with brake dust. Again - push with a screwdriver from the front of the pad backing plate.
Pushing the pistons back needs a lot of force sometimes and both together. Could try a piece of wood where the brake pad was - across both pistons with a bit to get hold of and pull, and then again!
Some pads have an anti squeal shim. On the backing plate of the pad you want copper grease, then the shim plate, then more copper grease, then the pistons. Don't get copper grease on the disc or pad surface.
There is no particular difference doing it with 4 pots AFAIK.
Sometimes getting the pads out is tricky if they are all caked with brake dust. Again - push with a screwdriver from the front of the pad backing plate.
Pushing the pistons back needs a lot of force sometimes and both together. Could try a piece of wood where the brake pad was - across both pistons with a bit to get hold of and pull, and then again!
Some pads have an anti squeal shim. On the backing plate of the pad you want copper grease, then the shim plate, then more copper grease, then the pistons. Don't get copper grease on the disc or pad surface.
There is no particular difference doing it with 4 pots AFAIK.
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