Seized top pin on sliding 2 pot
07 March 2001, 05:17 AM
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Ive just bought new Pagid disks and fast road pads all round for my MY94 WRX/STi, its standard caliper on the front is the twin potted sliding/floating kind (with both pots on the inside)problem is, the top pin (which i guess is supposed to slide back and forth inside the part of the caliper closest to the hub) is seized on both sides. The outer part of the caliper does hinge up (allowing pads to be changed without the seizing being noticed?) but this hinging is happening inside the part of caliper with the pots in it!
Ive tried turning the pins hex heads that are under the rubber seals but its well and truly solid! tryed working in WD40 and chapping it lightly in either direction ect, but it looks like nothing less than a stilson wrench or a large hammer will crack the seize
Anyone got any ideas before i have to resort to this? and maybe what parts ill need to sort it?
Cheers for any advice!
Alex.
Ive tried turning the pins hex heads that are under the rubber seals but its well and truly solid! tryed working in WD40 and chapping it lightly in either direction ect, but it looks like nothing less than a stilson wrench or a large hammer will crack the seize
Anyone got any ideas before i have to resort to this? and maybe what parts ill need to sort it?
Cheers for any advice!
Alex.
07 March 2001, 10:05 AM
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Hmmm. Seized pins/bolts.... always a pain in the posterior!
Now. I haven't actually seen the Scoob ones (got Wilwoods on mine) but if they're anything like the setup that bikes have then you'll need to soak them liberally in penetrating oil - like all day/night. Then use an Impact driver to loosen them. A sharp blow after soaking gets most things free.
If you haven't got one then try Halfords. Their tools are usually pretty good quality.
When you get it out clean up any threads with at least a wire brush, preferably a die to clean them properly. Use a tap to clean the threads in the caliper. Use copper grease when you put them back together - just DON'T get this on the disk/pads.... :-))
The other thing to check is is there anything else that needs unbolting before the pin comes out?? As I said I don't know the exact layout but I've been caught by this before...
Dave
07 March 2001, 10:32 AM
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Alex,
You don't (IMHO) need to remove the sliding pins to change the pads, just drop the whole caliper off the upright by unbolting the 2 17mm bolts top and bottom, you'll probably need to so this to change the discs anyway.
If you get desparate I have a couple of 2 pot calipers in pretty good nick off my MY98.
Andrew...
You don't (IMHO) need to remove the sliding pins to change the pads, just drop the whole caliper off the upright by unbolting the 2 17mm bolts top and bottom, you'll probably need to so this to change the discs anyway.
If you get desparate I have a couple of 2 pot calipers in pretty good nick off my MY98.
Andrew...
07 March 2001, 01:01 PM
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The calliper must be able to slide on the pins, or the brake pressure will not be distributed evenly on each side of the disc.
If soaking and rotating will not free it, I have some spare early callipers which you can have FOC.
Give me a ring if you are stuck.
If soaking and rotating will not free it, I have some spare early callipers which you can have FOC.
Give me a ring if you are stuck.
08 March 2001, 05:32 AM
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Cheers guys, Thanks for all the replies and offers of working calipers!
The offending parts are soaking in penetrating oil just now, and ill try chapping it through tommorow, ill get in touch if I need to take you up on one of those offers.
Thanks again,
Alex.
The offending parts are soaking in penetrating oil just now, and ill try chapping it through tommorow, ill get in touch if I need to take you up on one of those offers.
Thanks again,
Alex.
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