Cracked Disks.......
#1
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A question to anyone who's suffered cracked disks - how did you detect the problem? Was there loss of performance or vibration? Or did the dealer spot it?
Has anyone had a disk failure that was dangerous? (ie; disintegrating). When the disks crack does it also kill the pads?
Reason for asking; I've recently had problems with new TarOx disks warping. While waiting for replacements I fitted the OE disks with DS2000 pads and was happy with the performance.
I'm considering, if I ever have TarOx problems again (but they feel great so far Mike!), running this configuration permanently. My only concern is with the disks cracking - from a safety angle, not getting the dealer to swap them.
Thanks
Richard
Has anyone had a disk failure that was dangerous? (ie; disintegrating). When the disks crack does it also kill the pads?
Reason for asking; I've recently had problems with new TarOx disks warping. While waiting for replacements I fitted the OE disks with DS2000 pads and was happy with the performance.
I'm considering, if I ever have TarOx problems again (but they feel great so far Mike!), running this configuration permanently. My only concern is with the disks cracking - from a safety angle, not getting the dealer to swap them.
Thanks
Richard
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Dowser, the bad news is that yes, a cracked disc could be very dangerous - anything from no brakes to a locked wheel, I guess.
The good news is that you'll feel vibration from the disc beginning to warp many miles before it goes. And a disc that's ready to crack will vibrate the steering wheel so violently that you'll think the car is about to fall apart.
Hoppy
The good news is that you'll feel vibration from the disc beginning to warp many miles before it goes. And a disc that's ready to crack will vibrate the steering wheel so violently that you'll think the car is about to fall apart.
Hoppy
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Thanks Hoppy
Is this from personal experience? Anyone else out there who've suffered from cracked disks? What were the symptoms?
Thanks
Richard
Is this from personal experience? Anyone else out there who've suffered from cracked disks? What were the symptoms?
Thanks
Richard
#4
I recently complained to my dealer that the brakes had excessive fade and were showing hundreds of small cracks. They quickly agreed to replace them under warranty BUT I still get excessive fade. The overall performance is good but get a problem when doing the odd 'highspeed' brake (from 60mph) - one heavy application and they fade by the time I've slowed right down. I think my best bet is to upgrade the pads and fit ducting. Hope to do this over xmas while my wheels are off being painted.
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Dowser, yes, I speak from experience.
Gary C, I'm amazed by you experience, ie you could drive okay with cracked discs but felt nothing was wrong!
This is too important a problem to take risks with so Dowser, I have recommend that you follow Gary C's experience and check your discs regularly. The first sign that your discs are struggling will be brake fade. Check your discs and they'll probably show a crazed pattern (surface cracks) as an early warning sign. This is easy to check on the outside of the rotor, but a real pig to get a good look at the inside face.
If you suffer brake fade regularly and your discs are crazed, you're surely heading for serious danger.
My advice would be to fit upgraded Prodrive pads (excellent Ferodo DS2000) and also the upgraded Prodrive discs. About £500 I think. The standard brakes are sh1te, but better safe than sorry.
Hoppy
Gary C, I'm amazed by you experience, ie you could drive okay with cracked discs but felt nothing was wrong!
This is too important a problem to take risks with so Dowser, I have recommend that you follow Gary C's experience and check your discs regularly. The first sign that your discs are struggling will be brake fade. Check your discs and they'll probably show a crazed pattern (surface cracks) as an early warning sign. This is easy to check on the outside of the rotor, but a real pig to get a good look at the inside face.
If you suffer brake fade regularly and your discs are crazed, you're surely heading for serious danger.
My advice would be to fit upgraded Prodrive pads (excellent Ferodo DS2000) and also the upgraded Prodrive discs. About £500 I think. The standard brakes are sh1te, but better safe than sorry.
Hoppy
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Thanks All
Hopefully wont need it - the 2nd set of Tar.Ox's are holding up well so far
As mentioned though, I never got to make the OE disks with DS2000's fade....maybe I'm just too sympathetic...unlike ScoobyMike
Cheers
Richard
Hopefully wont need it - the 2nd set of Tar.Ox's are holding up well so far
As mentioned though, I never got to make the OE disks with DS2000's fade....maybe I'm just too sympathetic...unlike ScoobyMike
Cheers
Richard
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#8
Get the cracked disks replaced right away!
Hairline cracks will appear from excessive heat being generated through the disk under braking.....a gradual process. However grooved disks take the heat away a little due to the lines you see (grooves) enabling the heat to disperse quicker and prevent absorbtion (I think this is correct)
That said, the standard disks are SHOT. Most places will not replace pads onto a damaged disk as the performance is less than with a perfect surface. As you can imagine, the heat generated by braking at speed is slightly warm and this produces a fair ammount of kinetic energy that in the long run will damage the surface of the solid (not grooved or drilled) disk.
Drilled disks seem also (depending on make) to get hairline cracks between the holes, like a river pattern. It would seem, from what I have come across with my fleet that on an S Class merc, they have drilled disks that after 20k of heavy braking (Its a 5.0 litre) cracks develop between the holes feeding into another hole...as apposed ro going to the edge of a solid disk. This was also the case for a Carrera 4 we had. Porsche brakes eh?!
Go for a good grooved disk. Unless your braking from 140-0 all day long, it should be more than enough for your needs.
Hope this helps
Ronnie
Hairline cracks will appear from excessive heat being generated through the disk under braking.....a gradual process. However grooved disks take the heat away a little due to the lines you see (grooves) enabling the heat to disperse quicker and prevent absorbtion (I think this is correct)
That said, the standard disks are SHOT. Most places will not replace pads onto a damaged disk as the performance is less than with a perfect surface. As you can imagine, the heat generated by braking at speed is slightly warm and this produces a fair ammount of kinetic energy that in the long run will damage the surface of the solid (not grooved or drilled) disk.
Drilled disks seem also (depending on make) to get hairline cracks between the holes, like a river pattern. It would seem, from what I have come across with my fleet that on an S Class merc, they have drilled disks that after 20k of heavy braking (Its a 5.0 litre) cracks develop between the holes feeding into another hole...as apposed ro going to the edge of a solid disk. This was also the case for a Carrera 4 we had. Porsche brakes eh?!
Go for a good grooved disk. Unless your braking from 140-0 all day long, it should be more than enough for your needs.
Hope this helps
Ronnie
#9
I have had ongoing problems and tried alot of different solutions. If you dont want the full upgrade (AP'S, Brembos) use the DS2000 with a good disc. Prodrives disc upgrade is v expensive (scoobysport do a reasonably priced alternative). A colleague has had a lot of probs with Tarox warping.
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
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