Changing Brake Fluid
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,272
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Changing Brake Fluid
Going to fit my new brakes at the weekend and I'm putting braided lines on and Dot 5.1 fluid in at the same time.
So I'm looking for advice on how to bleed the old fluid and how much replacement fluid will I need to put in?
Cheers
Scott
So I'm looking for advice on how to bleed the old fluid and how much replacement fluid will I need to put in?
Cheers
Scott
#2
Easy enough if you have done that sort of thing before. Take all four wheels off, crack open the bleed nipple furthest away from the master cylinder(N/S/R). Attach a rubber hose to the nipple and pump the brakes until most of the fluid is drained. Most will be gone by the time you have changed the hoses. I would recommend you crack all the bleed nipples first before you disconnect the hoses in case one is seized! Mine were all fine.
You'll need a litre of fluid in order to flush the old fluid out. You won't use the full litre but it is always good to have some left over for the future. The system takes about 0.5 Litre.
For bleeding the brakes I used a friend to pump the brakes while i opened and shut the bleed nipples. As with all cars start bleeding the brakes from the furthest away point from the master cylinder and work your way nearer. You will also need to put weight on the rear wheels so the load sensing valve is open and allows the fluid through when you bleed the rear brakes.
Once I had done this I did it I did it again to make sure. Another point you may look at, I'm using RBF 600 racing fluid which is DOT 4 which has a high boiling point. This stood up to 4 hours on a trackday with no fading at all.
Good luck Jamie.
You'll need a litre of fluid in order to flush the old fluid out. You won't use the full litre but it is always good to have some left over for the future. The system takes about 0.5 Litre.
For bleeding the brakes I used a friend to pump the brakes while i opened and shut the bleed nipples. As with all cars start bleeding the brakes from the furthest away point from the master cylinder and work your way nearer. You will also need to put weight on the rear wheels so the load sensing valve is open and allows the fluid through when you bleed the rear brakes.
Once I had done this I did it I did it again to make sure. Another point you may look at, I'm using RBF 600 racing fluid which is DOT 4 which has a high boiling point. This stood up to 4 hours on a trackday with no fading at all.
Good luck Jamie.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MightyArsenal
Wheels, Tyres & Brakes
6
25 September 2015 08:31 PM