ozzy

Just like to thank Ian for supplying a set of his rear vented discs at short notice.

Look fantastic and have a guess of what today's job is









Stefan

drb5

iTrader: (4)

can ask how much they were and what brakes you have up front m8?

ozzy

£145 for the grooved & vented discs
£30 for some Kevlar pads
£10 delivery

I have the Godspeed 335mm kit on the front with Ferodo DS2500 pads.





Stefan

RON

How difficult where they to fit, and, do you think they'll make much difference to the braking?? I have the 335 kit too, I need new rear pads, so might just get the lot!!

Ron.

ozzy

Hi RON,

Installation
Loosen the wheel nuts, then jack the car up and sit it on some axle stands. I use a trolley jack and the centre diff (using some 1/2-thick wood to protect it) to raise the back of the car.
Put some wheel blocks at the front wheels and release the car's handbrake.



Now remove the wheels.



Once the wheels are off, remove the two caliper bolts using a 14mm socket wrench, gently pull the caliper away from the disc and remove the old pads.



Remove the rubber bung and with a long, thin screwdriver push the sprockets of the adjuster upwards to loosend the handbrake brake shoes.



Hang the caliper out of the way. I used a bungee cord and attached it to the rear suspension spring. With the handbrake released, the disc should pull free. If it's stuck on, use the two threaded holes on the disc to screw in some M8x50mm bolts which should push the disc away from the wheel hub.



With the disc removed, use some brake cleaner to clean the handbrake mechanism and brake shoes. Apply some copper grease to the wheel hub surface.



When fitting the new disc, it maybe necessary to adjust the handbrake shoes. Use the thumb screw to adjust how the brake shoes fit inside the new rear discs drum.



Optional: I took the time to paint the dust cover in black Hammerite smooth paint.



Now fit the new disc.



Insert the new disc pads into the caliper. With the Kevlar pads supplied from Godspeed I had to file down the lugs at the ends of the pads since they were slightly too wide. I also used a wooden stick to push the pads apart (pushing the piston back into the caliper) to ensure a sufficient gap to fit over the new discs. Now re-attach the caliper.



Check the handbrake functions correctly, then take the car for a drive and test the brakes.

Stefan

[Edited by ozzy - 9/7/2003 7:01:47 PM]

ozzy

As you can see they were a piece of pi$$ to fit ... BUT since my old discs & pads were completey FUBAR'd I had a few issues:-

1. even with the handbrake completely off, the brake shoes were stuck solid inside the disc hub. It took a bit of force, and I damaged a couple of springs holding them in-place, but I managed to fix them.

When I did the offside disc, I sprayed loads of brak cleaner between the disc and the handbrake brake shoe when I saw it binding. That realeased them with very little effort, so that should have been the way I tackled the nearside. you live and learn as they say.

2. Again, since my brakes pads were shot, the anti-rattle/squeal pads on the back of the pads were destroyed so I'll need to buy some new ones (if possible) from my Dealer.

3. When I fitted the new discs, they wouldn't fit over the handbrake brake shoes. This was only a problem on my car because the had bound-up on the old discs. There's a small thumb-screw at the base of the handbrake shoes which can adjust the tension. I had to move this slightly to fit the new discs.

4. I had to grind off a little material from the sides of the brake pad lugs since they were just a little too tight to fit. There was about a 1cm gap between the pads in the caliper, so I used a wooden stick to gently push the pads apart and the piston as far back as possible. This gave enough of a clearance to fit them over the new discs.

If my discs & pads hadn't been left to get so bad (entirely my own fault), then replacing them would have been very easy.

As for their performance, I'm still not really happy with the pedal feel on my car since I had the fronts replaced by my local garage. The system has been bled a few times, but it feels poorer than before on my std OEM discs.

Don't get me wrong Ian's kit works great, but I'm not 100% happy with the pedal. My car's in for it's service next Friday, so I'll ask them to check that it's been fitted and bled correctly.

Maybe it's just the bulkhead flex that I'm feeling more and need the brake support bracket, but either way the pedal travels too far and is a bit too spongy for my liking.

Stefan

RON

How thorough is that!!!!!

Thanks, I have a good pedal on mine, I personally trhink that the bulkhead thing only becomes an issue when at the limit, so shouldn't be a problem on the road, did the garage split the caliper for you aswell, did they do it right???

ta

Ron.

ozzy

Yeah, they split the caliper for the spacer.

No idea if they did it right or not. They did one for another Scoobynetter and he's not had any problems.

I did think that maybe the calipers need refurbishing, but I'd have expected one or two pistons to stick or not be as powerful. The car brakes in a straightline and stops quick enough, but I'm just not sure about the pedal travel. Certainly doesn't feel quite as good as before.

Stefan

IanK Spec C

Hi Stefan,

I also had great fun changing the rear discs on my old MY97. I also damaged some of the hand brake shoes components ! The correct way to remove the disc/drum assembly is to slacken the adjusting wheel through the back plate having removed the rubber bung. I found a long flat bladed screw driver the best to click the wheel up/down.

Once you've reffited the disks the handbrake can be adjusted via reversal of the above.

I hope this helps.

Ian

ozzy

ah, now that makes sense. Thanks Ian.

Suppose I'll know the next time

Stefan

ozzy

look what I found.



Now that would have been handy yesterday

Stefan

IanK Spec C

Glad to see you've updated your guide. Where did you get 'that' document ?

Ian

ozzy

Hi Ian,

Yeah thought I'd better update the guide just in case someone misses your step.

I did a search for adjusting the handbrake and stumbled across it from a post in July '03 by John Felstead - here it is

Apparently he has a full workshop manual in PDF format and that's just one of the pages.

My car's sitting on some axle stands waiting for the paint to dry on my dust covers The things you think of afterwards eh

Stefan

[Edited by ozzy - 9/7/2003 4:53:12 PM]

IanK Spec C

Ah, all is now clear. It's from JF, no wonder it's clean ;-) He's better inside a car than under it !

I won't tell you I spent the best part of an afternoon when I tried to remove my rear disks and spent about £20 buying new bits that I broke inside the handbrake assembly !!Before I understood how it works.

Ian

ozzy

yeah, tell me about it. I was using two 100mm bolts to push the damn disc off the hub. They were all the way in before the little spring clips gave way

If I'd half a brain I'd have stopped and thought about what I was doing. Then I had a go on the other one and the bolt sheered clean off in the disc. That's when I thought "oh, ****" I'd better actually stop and think

Luckily the brake cleaner worked before a "how the **** do I remove the rear discs" post appeared on here

Stefan

[Edited by ozzy - 9/8/2003 9:55:52 AM]

johnfelstead

Cheeky. I am multi talanted you know.