Dyney

Attu,
Here you go!

2 pot instructions:

Sorry if some of this is a bit basic!

Please read the whole procedure before beginning!!!!

I take it you can jack the car? OK, just incase!
Use the jack from the boot the handle is clipped under the wooden floor (above the spare wheel)! (I know people that have not found this in 3 years of ownership).

Place the jack behind the front wheel. If you look at the sill there is a cut out in the plastic sill cover.
There is a groove in the top of the jack, it fits the part of the sill sticking down.
Remember to loosen (not remove!!!) the wheel nut before you take the weight off the wheels (1 turn will do).

Take the wheel off.

Undo the lower bolt holding the calliper on and remove the bolt.
Now undo the top bolt a few turns so you can swing the calliper up.
This should leave the pads on the disk.

Remove the pads!

Push the pistons back with a G clamp (It's easier for 2 pots than the 4's)

Take off the Calliper carrier bracket (2 bolts right round the back that will be fukcing tight!!)
Once the calliper and carrier are off the disk should just fall off (if not give it a tap)

Remove all the $hit on the mounting face of the hub. Apply a little Copper grease to stop the disk seizing on.

Clean the new disk with brake cleaner and on it goes!

Put the carrier back on followed by the calliper and top bolt.

Take the new pads and swap all the anti squeal shims over from the old pads. (Do not get any oil/grease or other muck un the disk side of the new pads!!!)
If you have any Copper grease smear a little on the shims before you refit the pads. Once fitted push the calliper over the top.

Replace the lower bolt and tighten both down.

Re-fit the wheel. Do the bolts up finger tight.

Lower the car.

Tighten the wheel nuts fully (It is good practice not to tighten them in order. Do them up in the sequence---1,3,5,2,4) (1 is any nut!! It's just your starting point). This makes sure the wheel goes on straight. This method should be used with any wheel, regardless of car manufacturer.

Start the car and depress the pedal fully, pump the pedal until the resistance returns.

The car should now be safe to drive, but to make sure take a genital drive down a quite street and test the brakes.
Please be aware that new pads/disks will require bedding in (please see manufacturers instructions).

I take no responsibility for anyone following these instructions. If you are not confident after reading this please seek professional help)

It is your responsibility to find out the correct torque for all the bolts!


I knocked these instructions up from memory so there may be a few mistakes. If you attempt this please and it all goes wrong don't blame me

Iain.


[Edited by Dyney - 11/7/2002 9:07:34 PM]

scubbug

Hi,

I am in desperate need of a new set of front brakes for my `99 Imp. (Disks&Pads). Being a hands-on kinda guy I was wanting to do them myself.
FIRSTLY - Can anyone reccomend a reasonably priced decent bit of kit?
SECOND - Does anyone who has done this proc. before have any advice for things to watch out for ??? Do I need to watch for anything with it being an ABS system ???

Cheers guys&gals, Paul

rb5 286

iTrader: (2)

yhm

sillysi

Have a look in the Scoobynet shop for dics/pads, the Pagid Group N+ kit looks good and well priced. Do a search for "Changing Brake Pads" there are some very good posts with pictures. I did mine this weekend and it was a doddle.

Si.

Stuart J

Think long & hard should you consider buying EBC I personaly thought they were ****, I changed to Godspeed & have been very pleased with results, Drop Ian Godney an email at godspeed@ukonline.co.uk, if you want prices etc, cant remember his phone no.
Also if your fluid hasnt been changed for a couple of years I suggest you refill it with a good dot 5.1 fluid & bleed it through. Ian does a good fluid at a reosnable price, cant remember what its called, also braided hoses help, again easy to do whilst you are changing the fluid

Stuart

stockcar

probably the cheapest (& easiest) quality upgrade would be to fit grpN discs with a performance pad (various recomends depending on type of driving you do - Pagid/Ferodo)
mail me for more specific info.
alyn - as performance

Dyney

Most Subaru specialists will do a "Group N" type upgrade.
It's probably the place to start if you want to upgrade the brakes on a budget


Sorry if some of this is a bit basic!

Please read the whole procedure before begining!!!!

I take it you can jack the car? OK, just incase!
Use the jack from the boot the handle is clipped under the wooden floor (above the spare wheel)! (I know people that have not found this in 3 years of ownership).

Place the jack behind the front wheel. If you look at the sill there is a cut out in the plastic sill cover.
There is a groove in the top of the jack, it fits the part of the sill sticking down.
Remember to loosen (not remove!!!) the wheel nut before you take the weight off the wheels (1 turn will do).

Take the wheel off.
There should be 2 pins on the caliper (nearest to the front of the car). Follow the pins inboard (towards the engine) past the curly clip to the other side of the caliper. There should be a wire type clip that goes through the pins and clips into the caliper in between the pins.
Remove the clip (noting how the clip goes). (It's spring steel so will bend a bit if you need to).
Note the way the curly clip goes round the pins.
Withdraw the pins (you may need a pair of pliers) Be carefull of the curly clip it may spring off!!
Dont worry if the disk feels loose as the wheel holds it on usually!!!
With the pins removed you should be able to pull the pads out (you may need pliers) (If they don't come out give them a bit of a wiggle or try to push them back in to the caliper with a large flat screwdriver).
Once you have the pads out you need to push the Pistons (pots) back in (do not damage the rubber dust seal round the pistons). A G clamp is ideal or a peice of wood/screwdriver.
It can be a bit awkward as the other pistons sometimes move out when you push one back (It's a bit of trial and error untill they are all pushed back enough to get the pads in). Just do each one a bit in turn and then go back round.
It's not as difficult as it sounds!!!

Now unbolt the caliper from the hub (these bolts will be very tight!! Make sure you use the correct size socket (you do not want to round these buggers off!!))
With the the caliper removed the disk shoul come off if it doesn't give it a tap from behind with a mallet
Clean up the mounting surface of the hub. Apply a little Copper grease to the surface of the hub (should stop it seizing on again)
Put new disk in place and bolt the caliper back on.
Clean both sides of the disk with brake cleaner.

Take the new pads and swap all the anti squeel shims over from the old pads. (Do not get any oil/greese or other muck un the disk side of the new pads!!!)
If you have any Copper greese smear a little on the shims before you refit the pads.
Now put the new pads in to the caliper and put the pins through. (If they don't fit you may have to push the pistons back a bit more) Do not damage the new disk!!!!!!

Now put the curley clip on to the pins (the same way up as you should have noted before removing it). If it won't fit, remove 1 of the pins half way, and push it through the clip and then push it all the way home.
Re-fit the wire clip (you may have to turn the pins so the holes in the pin line up with the clip).
Re-fit the wheel. Do the bolts up finger tight.
Lower the car.
Tighten the wheel nuts fully (It is good practice not to tighten them in order. Do them up in the sequence---1,3,5,2,4) (1 is any nut!! It's just your starting point). This makes sure the wheel goes on straight. This method should be used with any wheel, regardless of car manufacturer.
Start the car and depress the pedal fully, pump the pedal until the resistance returns.
The car should now be safe to drive, but to make sure take a gental drive down a quite street and test the brakes.
Please be aware that new pads/disks will require bedding in (please see manufacturers instructions).
I take no responsibility for anyone following these instructions. If you are not confident after reading this please take seek profesional help )


It is your responsibility to find out the correct torque for all the bolts

Iain.

scubbug

Thanks for all the advice guys. Haven't yet had a chance to look into sourcing them, but will have a look @ scoobysport tonight.

Think I will def. look into a fluid/hose upgrade whilst I've got my hands dirty !

Doesn't seem to be anything specific I need to look out for when carrying this out (thanks Dyney). Think I will have a whirl next week-end (Dublin this week-end with the lass)

Attu

Dyney are these instructions any good for 2 pots ???
Im about to change my pads at the week end getting ready for my travel down to Wales the weekend after and im looking for instructions on how to change pads on 2 pot calipers.

Andy

Trumble

TSL GrpN+ with Ferrodo DS2500 and you wont go wrong.

You should be able to change discs and pads in about an hour and a half. To echo the instructions above:

Use some copper grease on the backs of the new pads / shims and those horrid squeaks will go away.

The caliper bolts are F***ing tight and I mean really tight, just watch out for the disc not falling on your foot - it really hurts trust me !

I have some pics if you want - just make sure you have a 5 litre paint tin to stand the caliper on!

T.

[Edited by Trumble - 11/7/2002 7:37:21 PM]

[Edited by Trumble - 11/7/2002 7:38:36 PM]

grahamstocker

With standard calipers go for pagid 8 groove group n discs and pagid blue pads and a set of braided hoses . Also some decent fluid and maybe ferrodo pads on the rear . I have this setup at the moment and can asure you this is as good as it gets on a standard setup. Have tried many combinations and have got to say dont use ebc greens i had big time fade with them frightening at the time but not with pagids they are the dogs.

Attu

Thanks

Mike Stokes

Yep, can recommend the Pagid setup, I have this on my own MY00 turbo. I bought them from Performance Braking, for *much* less than the subaru specialists sell them for, with the RS42-1 pads which have proved to be superb on the road and performed fantastically on a trackday at Spa 3 weeks ago. I paid £295 all in for the discs and pads, they took me about an hour and a half to change. PB also do a braided hose kit for £38 which I've also got but not yet fitted.

PB's number is 01600 713117, ask for Jill or John. They gave me excellent advice and wouldn't sell me something that wasn't suitable for my needs.

HTH.

APJ

Ditto what Mike has said above. Just collected my pagid 8-groove disks and pads from Performance Braking. Met the team whilst there, even a tour round the office/warehouse! Sensible advice from true enthusiasts - well impressed. Try em!

MGJohn

>> The car should now be safe to drive, but to make sure take a genital drive down a quite street and test the brakes.
<<

A GENITAL drive?? ....

MGJohn

GENITAL drive .... is that like golf tees .... for resting your ***** on whilst driving off .... they think of everything in these modern cars ...

Dyney

So some one did read it properly then

Bladdy spel chequer

scubbug

Is the disk diamater on a standard UK spec 99 Imp. 277mm guys ??

ROGIBEAR

Scubbug they should be 294mm disc's and you should have 4 pot calipers on a 1999 model,a bit of good advice go for the Pagid set up no matter where you get it from it's the best!!!
Roger

scubbug

Well I ended up going for Tarox 44 groove disks and was recommended (by Graham Goode) to mate them with a mintex pad. Not sure how this arrangement is going to turn out but was concerned that the pads have a disclaimer about "USE ON THE PUBLIC HIGHWAY" and that they should not be used for this purpose. Has anyone ever heard of this ???? Will they be ok ? will they damage my disks ??

Thanks chaps