MY98 Changing Brake Pads
#2
I presume you mean the fronts- very easy.
Loosen wheel nuts.
Jack up car, axle stands etc.
Remove wheel.
Take 13mm socket or ring spanner and loosen caliper bolts. These are located on the inside of the caliper. Do not loosen larger bolts attaching caliper housing to strut.
Loosen the top bolt only but remove the lower one. The caliper should now swing upwards rotating on top bolt.
The pads are now virtually free but are held on by sprung retaining clips. Lever out pads, remembering their position (and retaining clips).
Fit new pads after applying copper grease (has to be high temperature grease) on the OUTSIDE metal surface of the pad.
Using piece of wood or metal bar lever caliper piston back so that it is almost flush with surround. This forces brake fluid up into master cylinder reservoir and it may overflow. Watch out for this.
Swing caliper back over new pads. Replace lower bolt and tighten both bolts.
Replace wheel.
Easy.
D.
Loosen wheel nuts.
Jack up car, axle stands etc.
Remove wheel.
Take 13mm socket or ring spanner and loosen caliper bolts. These are located on the inside of the caliper. Do not loosen larger bolts attaching caliper housing to strut.
Loosen the top bolt only but remove the lower one. The caliper should now swing upwards rotating on top bolt.
The pads are now virtually free but are held on by sprung retaining clips. Lever out pads, remembering their position (and retaining clips).
Fit new pads after applying copper grease (has to be high temperature grease) on the OUTSIDE metal surface of the pad.
Using piece of wood or metal bar lever caliper piston back so that it is almost flush with surround. This forces brake fluid up into master cylinder reservoir and it may overflow. Watch out for this.
Swing caliper back over new pads. Replace lower bolt and tighten both bolts.
Replace wheel.
Easy.
D.
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