Soft brake pedal, almost to floor. Look at everything I have tried. Cycle ABS?
#2
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I had similar situation after fitting new front calipers and hoses and bleeding, pedal felt very soft, even after persistent bleeding. I ended up driving car for about a week then bleeding the brakes again, in this order; Front right, Rear left, Front left, Rear right and after second pass got loads of air out of front left and right rear. Pedal is now nice and firm.
I would give the brakes another bleeding session and you'll probably find that air comes out fairly quickly as the driving/vibration and brake use will have dislodged/accumulated any trapped air.
Hope this helps
I would give the brakes another bleeding session and you'll probably find that air comes out fairly quickly as the driving/vibration and brake use will have dislodged/accumulated any trapped air.
Hope this helps
Last edited by modrich; 27 August 2014 at 10:59 PM.
#3
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Had to bleed mine 3 times drove it after 1 bleed was too spongy, bled it again, drove it was still spongy, though I was going to have problems,bled again and was nice and hard, as said above bleed again
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air compresses quite easily, brake fluid doesn't so the air in the brake lines is compressing and not allowing the brakes to operate properly thus giving poor brakes and soft pedal
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Don't get me wrong, but let's say they have this problem in a garage, I don't expect them to drive the car for hours and bleed it every time, so how would they solve it.
And just another question that pops up, I have a vacuum bleeder and the 2-men bleeding way, would the vacuum bleeder be better? So I don't "compress" the air when my mate is pushing the pedal every time?
If the air is trapped, if the car has not been driven for let's say 2 days, where is it trapped? And is it like a big bubble or very small bubbles everywhere?
And just another question that pops up, I have a vacuum bleeder and the 2-men bleeding way, would the vacuum bleeder be better? So I don't "compress" the air when my mate is pushing the pedal every time?
If the air is trapped, if the car has not been driven for let's say 2 days, where is it trapped? And is it like a big bubble or very small bubbles everywhere?
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Just a last quick question guys, when I do a cycle of the ABS.
Where is the air going to ? To the brake calipers? Should I leave anything open?
I am really convinced there is still air trapped in the ABS somehow.
Where is the air going to ? To the brake calipers? Should I leave anything open?
I am really convinced there is still air trapped in the ABS somehow.
#9
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Just go and brake hard so the abs works , it should bleed ok , so its either not bled properly , the calipers are on upside down , or the master cylinder is foobarred !
It can only be one of these three.
If you pump the pedal , does it come back up to the top of the travel , or is it just going to the floor everytime you press is
It can only be one of these three.
If you pump the pedal , does it come back up to the top of the travel , or is it just going to the floor everytime you press is
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That's what I did, I went to a gravel road, made the ABS work like 10 times, bled the brakes again, same problem.
When I pump the pedal (engine off), the pedal is nice and firm, with a good travel and stays that way. The pedal doesn't go to the floor, which I conclude that my MC is good.
Second reason, it is my 2nd MC, never went dry, so 2 broken MC after each other is a bit too much to be the problem.
Third reason, I had this even without touching the MC, so before I started to change them.
Calipers are ok, the nipples are at the top (OEM calipers).
So I guess we have the same conclusion again, ABS.
When I bleed with the vacuum method, I don't have to touch the pedal, correct ?
Your username does ring a bell, I am glad you are willing to help me out
Did you ever cycle the ABS pump? It seems fairly easy to do, but I will take my time to do it correctly. What do you guys think?
When I pump the pedal (engine off), the pedal is nice and firm, with a good travel and stays that way. The pedal doesn't go to the floor, which I conclude that my MC is good.
Second reason, it is my 2nd MC, never went dry, so 2 broken MC after each other is a bit too much to be the problem.
Third reason, I had this even without touching the MC, so before I started to change them.
Calipers are ok, the nipples are at the top (OEM calipers).
So I guess we have the same conclusion again, ABS.
When I bleed with the vacuum method, I don't have to touch the pedal, correct ?
Your username does ring a bell, I am glad you are willing to help me out
Did you ever cycle the ABS pump? It seems fairly easy to do, but I will take my time to do it correctly. What do you guys think?
Last edited by itsscoobytime; 28 August 2014 at 01:10 PM.
#11
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After changing the discs and removing both front Brembo calipers (and losing the fluid in them, they needed helicoiling) I had similar problems to you when I tried to bleed the brakes. Someone on here suggested that there must be air trapped in the calipers so I removed the front wheels which meant the discs and calipers were now slightly loose. I then firmly tapped each caliper with a rubber hammer, re-bled them and eventually (after more clouts) some big air bubbles emerged and the brakes were sorted.
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I tried to cycle ABS pump but the ABS won't go on when I put the ignition ON.
If I press the brake right after iginition is on, it does nothing neither.
I grounded 3 & 6 from the B82 connector to the ground connectors.
I don't have to connect the 2 green test connectors right ?
If I press the brake right after iginition is on, it does nothing neither.
I grounded 3 & 6 from the B82 connector to the ground connectors.
I don't have to connect the 2 green test connectors right ?
Last edited by itsscoobytime; 31 August 2014 at 12:18 PM.
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