OVERHEATING PROBLEM
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Bit of a problem guys
I just drove back from Fforestfach to my house (about 10 miles) and noticed my water temp going up but then my oil temp shot up to 130 degrees
I cant see if i've got a leak in the radiator as its dark at the moment.
Woud a hole in the radiator make the Oil temp go up?
Taken me 1 and a half hors to come home
I just drove back from Fforestfach to my house (about 10 miles) and noticed my water temp going up but then my oil temp shot up to 130 degrees
I cant see if i've got a leak in the radiator as its dark at the moment.Woud a hole in the radiator make the Oil temp go up?

Taken me 1 and a half hors to come home
Calvin, when you got home did you check the coolant - what I mean is it definitely overheating rather than having perhaps a wiring fault on the gauges? 
I wouldn't recommend taking off the header tank cap while the car is hot but have you lost any coolant?

I wouldn't recommend taking off the header tank cap while the car is hot but have you lost any coolant?
Id say yes as the water is supposed to be cooling the engine,
If the engine temp is rising due to lack of cooling then the whole blocks temperature will increase so ur oil temp will increase.
hth
If the engine temp is rising due to lack of cooling then the whole blocks temperature will increase so ur oil temp will increase.
hth
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From: Swansea.In search of more power!!
Sounds like a hole in the rad then. Good excuse for an alloy one i think

Or maybe a blown hose. I will have to inspect it in the morning.
Thanks guys
if u lose water the engine can not cool and will over heat, which in turn will warp ur heads and cause head gasket failure. check to make sure there is water in ut coolant tank, if not, and car didnt over heat as u kept a eye on it just idle car and monitor temp gauge and see if there is any coolant leaking from rad area or water pipes, check rad viens for damage. hopefully its somethings small like that, if not it could very well be head gasket failure. check to see if water pipes are hard when up to temperature, means gasses getting into water system and gaskets are shot.
Ditto above Calv - I hope it ain't serious, I had a similar prob on my JDM WRX Classic, turned out to a pinhole in the top of the plastic end tank, got a shot radiator with good ends and the radiator place in Sx, swapped them over for me - no worries after that
managed to see steam on one cold day Trending Topics
Check your oil Calv on the dipstick and at the oil filler cap for mayo and oil in water. Also check your water for oil just in case headgasket as gone.
Lets hope its a hose or something small.
Lets hope its a hose or something small.
when you had the cam belt changed could something have hit the rad fins and caused a leak ?? hopfully you will get it sorted fella and i only say this as you have only just had cambelt done and when you do a belt with rad on it's very tight and can be easy to do
there are head gasket test fluids that change when they detect exhaust gasses. and pressure test water system. got the kit in work to do it. but i work in brecon. otherwise i cud look at it 4 u
These engines are pretty good when it comes to head gaskets. Calv as I said on the phone check the bottom hose to double check. If its anything from the belt change I'll foot the bill.
I think it's a hose that I left a lil loose.
I think it's a hose that I left a lil loose.
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From: Llanelli with a spanner in my hand!
As Dylan said, I'd check the hoses first, esp. if the rad was taken off. Has the rad got a drain screw? If so I'd check that as they seem to enjoy loosening when the rad warms up.
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From: just about to jump off the wardrobe...
ive also got the "siffer kit" at the garage to check if the gases are in the coolant (head blown)
but also check what kev has said about the "mayo" look in the water and for water in the oil,
as the sniffer kit only finds if the heads blown across the bore to water jackets
the mayo would be if the heads blown across the water and oil canals
what ive seen the last week is that people have got no where near the needed amount of anti freeze in there water and bottom hoses are freezing up and hence the car will overheat and if you keep driving it will blow your head,
when you done the belt did you remove the rad ??? if so did you top up the aintfreeze when you replaced the water from removing it??
but also check what kev has said about the "mayo" look in the water and for water in the oil,
as the sniffer kit only finds if the heads blown across the bore to water jackets
the mayo would be if the heads blown across the water and oil canals
what ive seen the last week is that people have got no where near the needed amount of anti freeze in there water and bottom hoses are freezing up and hence the car will overheat and if you keep driving it will blow your head,
when you done the belt did you remove the rad ??? if so did you top up the aintfreeze when you replaced the water from removing it??
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From: Swansea.In search of more power!!
The rad was removed when the belt was done so no risk of damage there. I will check the bottom hoses tomorrow when it goes up on a ramp.
No white substance on the oil cap. That was the first thing i checked.
After all the hoses are 13 years old now and probably due for changing
Anti freeze levels were fine
No white substance on the oil cap. That was the first thing i checked.
After all the hoses are 13 years old now and probably due for changing

Anti freeze levels were fine
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From: Llanelli with a spanner in my hand!
The rad was removed when the belt was done so no risk of damage there. I will check the bottom hoses tomorrow when it goes up on a ramp.
No white substance on the oil cap. That was the first thing i checked.
After all the hoses are 13 years old now and probably due for changing
Anti freeze levels were fine
No white substance on the oil cap. That was the first thing i checked.
After all the hoses are 13 years old now and probably due for changing

Anti freeze levels were fine

I was looking for an inlet hose last night and seen plenty of used samco rad hoses for sale, you might find yourself a bargin.
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Hopefully found the problem. Seems there was a bit of air trapped in the system. Filled the cooling system up today and let the car idle and the temp went to normal level and the heaters warmed up.
Hopefully thats the end of my worries for now
May still get some Samcos and an alloy rad though
Hopefully thats the end of my worries for now

May still get some Samcos and an alloy rad though
these cars can be a mission with air locks and i always fill my system through my turbo hose and other hoses then leave to stand awhile then start it and leave run with cap off
Ok if you look at the car from the front calvin with the bonnet open check the left side of the radiator as these are common to crack mine went took it to ricketts,guy said SUBARU common fault the heat of the water and the pressure causes it blow fine hair line crack,opposite side to where the pipe connects top left.
Hopefully found the problem. Seems there was a bit of air trapped in the system. Filled the cooling system up today and let the car idle and the temp went to normal level and the heaters warmed up.
Hopefully thats the end of my worries for now
May still get some Samcos and an alloy rad though
Hopefully thats the end of my worries for now

May still get some Samcos and an alloy rad though


Glad your sorted, nice to have a easy fix now and again
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), it would be a good excuse then to get an alloy radiator. 
