notfub

iTrader: (4)

The time is approaching to do my cambelt and I've a few questions for those that have done this on their cars (Dylan, Lee etc).

1. When removing the old belt, I believe the RHS (when in front of car) cams will spin. Is it easy enough to move them back into alignment to fit a new belt? Extra pair of hands and an allen key/socket etc? OR make some cam locking tool.

2. I'm going to change the water pump at the same time, any reason why I shouldn't?

3. Is it always worth changing the camshaft seal at the same time? If so, how much oil will escape? Does most of it remain in the sump?

4. I've got a small drip of oil on either side of the base of my belt cover (so small there are no oil marks on the drive and I've only ever wiped it once in a few months). I'm guessing this will be the crankshaft seal BUT if it's a camshaft seal does that mean camshaft out to fix?

I'm pretty good with the spanners (cambelts on other cars, gearbox rebuilds, clutch, flywheel, brakes, suspension rebuilds etc) so this doesn't phase me....yet.

I was going to get the cambelt/tensioner kit for £195 here;
Subaru Impreza WRX up to 09/2002 Timing Belt Kit 6 Piece
anyone know of a better deal?

Thanks for your help

The Stitcher

iTrader: (12)

hi mate, the cams can spin on one side but all you need is 2 small mole grips to clamp them this should be OK , the pain sometimes is to undo the crank bolt that holds the pulley on you can get away with putting it in gear and try getting off that way,plus there are more harsher ways but should come off that way i made a tool that is like the subaru one that holds the pulley your welcome to borrow it if you like.

its always good to change parts while its all apart but if chainging pump just make sure you have an original subaru gasket to use with pump as i have seen many people have problems with aftermarket one's so do it right once

you say you have oil at the base of cam belt cover this could be the crank seal but could also be cam seal but you would not tell till you pull the cover off , the crank front seal would be easy to change as you can just use to self taping screws and then pull out with hammer claw or pliers etc... then just knock new one in with a socket but just note where the old seal sits

you should not see to much oil as most oil is in sump but would advise to fill pump back up through the oil pressure hole

the link you posted they supply good parts and have used these few times before and never had any problems

hope this helps

matscooby

iTrader: (3)

As well as doing the cambelt, I would recommend changing the Oil pump as well, though it depends on how old your car is. really.

Though ideally you'll want someone to help you put the cambelt back on as you have to keep both sides in the correct place when sliding on the belt, otherwise if they move and they become mis-aligned and you try to start the car - bang, smack, wallop and that will be 1 engine rebuild please.

The Stitcher

iTrader: (12)

forgot to say when fitting the new belt to fit the tensioner and pulleys except the lowest pulley as the belt goes on better and then fit bottom one last then just pull tensioner pin and done

turn engine by hand to see if it all rotates fine, it will also make things more easy if you remove rad but it can be done by just taking off the fans,

check out my thread in project section there might be some pics on there but not sure now

DYL 4N

As lee said really.

I will be doing calvin's belt tomorrow if you wana pop over?

THE DOCTOR

iTrader: (2)

Out of interest fella, what's the cost in parts for a cambelt and service, I was tring to work it out before, and by the time I added all the parts up the dealer option seemed like a better bet.

I ended up paying £400 for a fixed price full service and cambelt.

Can u see what I mean, if a cambelt is £195 by the time you add in the price of oil and consumables, then sometimes it is worth looking to see if a dealer has any special service offers on.

They can sometimes surprise..!

The Stitcher

iTrader: (12)

do you mean £195 for just the belt ?? as they are only around £95 from subaru a cosworth one is around £135

im sure you can get all the bits and somethings better like the type of oil/ plugs for alot less than a garage will charge you

notfub

iTrader: (4)

It's great to get real world information from those that have done the work on their own cars personally. Tips on the water pump gasket, oil pressure hole fill and lowest pulley method are just prime examples from Lee that make this forum and the Welsh section so great

@ Lee, Thanks for the advice, I'll take you up on the offer of the pulley tool loan, I'll PM you in the next week or two

@ Mat, my oil pump is only 25k miles old as the engine was rebuilt by Zen at 58k (now on 82k) so should be fine? Doing cambelt as it's coming up to 3 years since the rebuild. I'll get Simon (RallyFan555) to give me a hand with the belt fitting as he also needs a cambelt in the next month or two so I'll probably return the favour to him.

@ Dylan, excellent idea and thanks for the offer. I'll PM you for the lowdown

@ Alsieboy, I only need a cambelt, as everything else has been done recently by my own fair hands . I can see your point of view but if I can do a job then I know it's been done with the care and attention it deserves. If I was working at the moment I may have let Indigo GT/Dave Coe/Powerstation or API do the work (and may well do if the cam seals are shot!). £400 is a good price for a full service BUT were all pulleys and tensioners changed, was your water pump changed? I'd guess that your £400 didn't include these extras BUT if it did, you'd best let me know who did the work and I'll be on the phone on Monday to book my car in The £195 cost via the link in my original post is for the cambelt, tensioner and all pulleys. Just look at the price of the individual items on Roger Clarke's website or GGR etc, not cheap by any means fella.

Thanks to all of you guys for replying you've been a big help.

Cheers,
Dean

Rally fan 555

iTrader: (7)

@ Mat, my oil pump is only 25k miles old as the engine was rebuilt by Zen at 58k (now on 82k) so should be fine? Doing cambelt as it's coming up to 3 years since the rebuild. I'll get Simon (RallyFan555) to give me a hand with the belt fitting as he also needs a cambelt in the next month or two so I'll probably return the favour to him.

THE DOCTOR

iTrader: (2)

Yea you got me thinking now as to what exactly has been changed...will dig out the service sheet and find out, the Dealer was Keith Price in Crickhowel, they were doing fixed price servicing, they may still be doing it, worth a call if you don't fancy getting yer hands dirty..!

Slystav

iTrader: (1)

hi guys,

i couldn't find this thread until i started my own and someone linked me to it - but i have a question about the front shaft seals while swapping the timing belt- what are the different types and what is the difference in difficulty level between changing them? isn't there also a risk of screwing through the seal into the engine block?