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24mm F+R whiteline arb's

Old Feb 9, 2014 | 12:49 PM
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Default 24mm F+R whiteline arb's

Hi peeps I've read up a bit on the anti roll bars and from what i have gathered most people use 22mm on the front and 24mm adjustable on the rear, but also it greatly depends on what suspension and spring rate you run as to how the ARB reacts to the car on the road.

I bought a pair of 24mm front and rear whiteline with droplinks for a good price with the intention to put them on with the rear on soft setting and front is a fixed.

As it is with the pink shock/spring it is very level and almost as hard as coilovers, very solid on the road, but i'm after a bit more control under power. Also anti lift kits, i had this on my evo 3, with adjustable rear rs cradle lower control arms and ralliart rear ARB and it really helped put the initial power down rather than using the force of pushing the rear down it felt very level.

My main concern with the handling is on a opposite change of camber in the road while cornering really make the back end light and wanting to get loose also gave it a bit of a clutch drop on a turn and it really reacted like a rear wheel drive (dccd setting) and snapped a few times to get it straight with a lot of under-steer.

The specs

1998 Subaru type R STI

- 340bhp @ the wheels

-DCCD 5 speed (always left in free)

-Pink STI shocks with adjustable damping 4 way
Adjustable gymkhana type (setting 2)
set above showa type
(factory option stamped sti)

-Pink STI springs
also lowering the car 30mm
Spring are 3.4 kg/mm front and 3.1 kg/mm rear

- Toyo Proxes


Anyone running a similar setup or views on pros/cons of the 24mm or both front and rear?

Thanks
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 12:45 PM
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You say your Type R is behaving like a RWD and you get alot of understeer - is this correct?
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 06:52 PM
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Yes just in the rear seems a bit loose i think the DCCD is 35:65 with more power at the rear, even when its not under power just coasting through some tight corners the back doesn't seem as firm as it should.

I Have a RPS13 Sileighty (sr20det vvt@380Bhp) and an GSR Evolution (4g93t @240Bhp) 50:50 and i do realize the difference in the handling of the subaru campared even to the S13 RWD but that has very stiff hotbits coilovers and 18x9 R34 GTR wheels and the back of that really sicks to the road.
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 08:47 PM
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Were things better before the ARB additions?
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Old Feb 10, 2014 | 09:30 PM
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At the moment I'm still running the standard Type R GC8 ARB's front and rear, really wanting to know if anyone has the 24mm bars on front and rear?
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Old Feb 11, 2014 | 12:34 AM
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I'm running 24mm whiteline bars front and rear on my classic.I can still provoke oversteer easily and its fairly controllable on a dry road.
I do have a lot of supporting mods which help though.
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Old Feb 11, 2014 | 01:14 AM
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I wouldn't run personally on my car both 24mm ARB's,I prefer to run like both 22mm or 22mm at front and 24mm at rear

Hard setting I wouldn't touch if car is used as fast road,on track car is different thing,but everybody have each own settings

ALK should help you,but this depends,on our car we fitted ALK and ALK has work in opposite way and created lift under acceleration,but this has been down to incorrect wheel alignment

Roll centre/Bump steer mod is what I would too recommend if car is lowered and last bit,if you are not running coilovers and want to run more camber,only option is to run camber bolts at front and rear

Jura
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Old Feb 11, 2014 | 09:18 AM
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I can't really help with your handling issues, but Simon @ Chevron recommended 24mm front and back on my newage. He seems to have a well respected opinion when it comes to handling.

I've got Whiteline 24 F and R, Soft front and medium rear - but haven't been on track since.

Car will move at the rear just before understeering, but it's all very manageable and calm.
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Old Feb 11, 2014 | 10:21 AM
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I have eibach 24 F and R on a P1 seems to work ok but it was specified for track/ fast road use and it does have exe tc coilovers, etc.

Handles fine with circa 500bhp - a touch too much understeer on the road - caster mod going on soon but I suspect it will be fine for the track where inputs will be higher.

By the way, all Anti Lift kits do exactly the opposite to their name- they promote dive and lift. The dive on corner entry / braking increases grip / makes the back lighter, but it can wash out on exit as the power comes in and raises the nose. Nothing to do with individual cars.
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Old Feb 11, 2014 | 02:49 PM
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As Jura says it all depends on your own personal preference . I've had my car 10 years so have tried almost everything.
I'm running ast's with top mounts . I also have newage alloy front arms and have done the caster mod. with 6mm spacers.
Up back I've adjustable rose jointed lateral links to even up the 2inch gain in front track width.
I've polly bushes the whole car . I also don't have the anti lift kit fitted.
I'm also running 225 40 18 r888's.
It is a little uncomfortable and noisy but the wife refuses to get in it so its not all bad.
I also run a lot of camber
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Old Feb 11, 2014 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by pagey73
As Jura says it all depends on your own personal preference . I've had my car 10 years so have tried almost everything.
I'm running ast's with top mounts . I also have newage alloy front arms and have done the caster mod. with 6mm spacers.
Up back I've adjustable rose jointed lateral links to even up the 2inch gain in front track width.
I've polly bushes the whole car . I also don't have the anti lift kit fitted.
I'm also running 225 40 18 r888's.
It is a little uncomfortable and noisy but the wife refuses to get in it so its not all bad.
I also run a lot of camber
What thickness bars??
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Old Feb 11, 2014 | 05:33 PM
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Sorry mate as above 24mm whiteline front and rear , front on soft(two hole adjustable) so I believe 23.5mm and rear on middle setting.
All on my classic 97.
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