Ryan-STi

Hay guys,

Right.. I've got a 2006 55 Plate STi Blobeye Widetrack Type UK.

I have recently changed my alloys to XXR 527 8.75 x 18 225/40/18

My car has previously had Geometry done to it, which I have only just found out now! Grrrr

The previous setup is here -

Front

Camber =
Left -0.24'
Right -0.33'

Castor =
Left +4.05'
Right +4.01'

Toe =
Left -0.03'
Right -0.03'

Rear

Camber =
Left -2.08'
Right -0.52'

Toe =
Left +0.01'
Right +0.03'

I've just had this completed today at a nearby garage..

Front

Camber =
Left -1.05'
Right -1.05'

Castor =
Left +4.26'
Right +4.17'

Toe =
Left -0.01'
Right 0.00'

Rear

Camber =
Left -1.56'
Right -1.55'

Toe =
Left +0.01'
Right 0.00'


I mainly do fast road use. Does anyone know if this is a good setup on a Newage STi or whether I need to change it - add more negative camber or more castor? Toe in on rear?

Any help would be apriciated. Thanks guys!

Ryan

cuprajake

iTrader: (11)

You can't adjust castor on standard suspension

Setup wise it's ok, the prodrive settings run a bit more toe but this will wear tyres
Quicker. So I'd just keep it as is. That's just the standard factory settings by the looks of it

Ryan-STi

I'm not on standard suspension bud. I've got BC Coilovers.

Do you know of any performance setups if this is a standard setup buddy?

Cheers. Ryan

jura11

iTrader: (7)

Hi Ryan


Yours previous setup has been similar which we run previously and has been not the best on the track,on road has been OK

Usually when yours car is more for track I would go with more camber at front and less camber at rear(usually 0.5 degree)

We run those two setups:

First one:

Front - 1.4'

Rear -2.00'

This setup has been OK for road use,but on track I wouldn't use this setup.
At this stage we run wide wheels with wide tyres(9.5JX18" ET38 with 245/40 ZR18),this setup has been best which we can get without the running camber bolts

Last setup/setting:

We added Camber bolts at front and rear,Roll Centre/Bump steer correction Kit and here are cambers

Front -2.00'

Rear -1.50'

This setup is best,great on track or day to day running,we done on this setup we done numerous track days or drag runs and still feels awesome

Assume you are not running camber bolts,if not I would add camber bolts and I would add too bump steer/Roll centre correction kit,this will transform driving on yours and I would this recommend on any lowered car,which is lowered bellow standard

Adding more castor,you can rotate yours top mounts and get more castor,but still think you are running good castor,with rotating top mounts you should have little bit more


Over here you can find lots of the threads about the best settings/setups,as I said on yours previous thread,one setup can work on yours,but on different cars can respond differently

This setup which we running recommend us Neil@Slowboy racing and Dixon@DMS(he have lots of experience in TA) and must admit we love this setup,is great on track or the road


Jura

Ryan-STi

Hi Jura, thank you for your reply!

That sounds like a good setup.. I'm already nearly there I guess I just need to turn the BC plate around to gain a little more Caster, increase the front camber to -2.0' and my rear camber is already -1.5'

What is a roll centre correction kit?

Do you know any info on how exactly to turn the top mounts, which way they need to be changed too etc?

I'm looking for a decent fast road setup. I don't use my car everyday only when I feel like it maybe on a weekend or so.

I need to setup this suspension better, I'm not happy with the current cornering speed, needs to be faster an seems to understeer?!

Cheers. Ryan

jura11

iTrader: (7)

Hi Ryan

About the rotating yours Top mounts have look on this thread


https://www.scoobynet.com/suspension...l#post10605123

or this thread

https://www.scoobynet.com/suspension...er-bushes.html

Roll Correction kit is good to have when you lowering the car,I would go with WhiteLine kit which we are running,this kit cost around £160

Yes is worth to add and will transform the driving yours car as on our one

here is good thread

https://www.scoobynet.com/suspension...rth-doing.html

If you will go with the rotating the top mounts you can loose little bit camber adjustment,due this I would suggest and add camber bolts like at front and rear

Camber bolts cost around £20 and you can buy them from many companies like is Eibach or WhiteLine

Without the camber bolts we can't run more at front more like -1.4',now we can run at front with wider wheels and tyres around -3.00'

What ARB's do you running?

Jura

Ryan-STi

Hi Jura,

Thank you for the information.

I already have rear camber bolts, do I need aftermarket ones to replace the fronts also to achieve -2.0'?

I will look at turning around the too mount and see how that goes.

I don't have any updated ARB as of yet but have been reading up an thinking maybe I need Front 24mm and Rear 24mm?

Thanks. Ryan

jura11

iTrader: (7)

Hi Ryan

Yes rear camber bolts we are run previously and we are added too at front,I would suspect you will need at front too

You will need to run camber bolts at front if you want to run more camber at front and you want to run wide wheels/tyres

Yes ARB 22mm at front and 24mm at rear should be good start and should transform the car too

Here is our most recent wheel alignment




Jura

cuprajake

iTrader: (11)

That's not a huge amount of castor though. I've got 4degrees on my standard setup

jura11

iTrader: (7)

We are not running more castor,our top mounts are still in normal position not rotated

We want them rotate in later stage,but for now we are very happy and mainly we can easily run any wide wheels on our wagon

Jura