whats adjustable?
#1
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whats adjustable?
been having a search on here but couldn't find the answer i was after
basically when my car went in to subaru for its service back in august, they mentioned about my tyre wear on the inside, they said as its got the suspension setup from prodrive they adjust the camber for better handling, they then noted that when i replace the tyres its best to get the setting reverted back to standard form to save wearing the tyres, how much of this sounds about right to you?
now the bit that confusing me, i didnt think the camber was adjustable out the box i though you had to get camber shims or top mounts etc or am i being the dumb one
Thanks Dan
basically when my car went in to subaru for its service back in august, they mentioned about my tyre wear on the inside, they said as its got the suspension setup from prodrive they adjust the camber for better handling, they then noted that when i replace the tyres its best to get the setting reverted back to standard form to save wearing the tyres, how much of this sounds about right to you?
now the bit that confusing me, i didnt think the camber was adjustable out the box i though you had to get camber shims or top mounts etc or am i being the dumb one
Thanks Dan
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What car are we talking about?
Actually sounds about right. Front camber is adjustable from the factory (there's one camber bolt used between the strut and the knuckle) and more negative camber actually means that you'd need to drive more aggressively for more even tyre wear. Aggressive corenring will actually mean that the tyre will be flatter to the ground with the added negative camber and such setups are generally meant for track use and grip and handling rather than tyre wear considerations.
I would not recommend driving more aggressively on the road just to even out tyre wear so depending on your driving style and car use it may be a good idea to adjust the camber more towards road use rather than track use, i.e. less negative camber.
Actually sounds about right. Front camber is adjustable from the factory (there's one camber bolt used between the strut and the knuckle) and more negative camber actually means that you'd need to drive more aggressively for more even tyre wear. Aggressive corenring will actually mean that the tyre will be flatter to the ground with the added negative camber and such setups are generally meant for track use and grip and handling rather than tyre wear considerations.
I would not recommend driving more aggressively on the road just to even out tyre wear so depending on your driving style and car use it may be a good idea to adjust the camber more towards road use rather than track use, i.e. less negative camber.
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thanks for that sorry car was a 2005 blob sti i totally agree about the agressive road driving!
the challenge is i will be taking my car to trackdays so im unsure if its best adjust before and after just to save the tyres!
the challenge is i will be taking my car to trackdays so im unsure if its best adjust before and after just to save the tyres!
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Well, it's up to you to decide, really. Mine is at maximum negative camber that I can get with the current setup and it's staying there and I don't really care about tyres not wearing evenly because the tyres I use on the road are there just for a bit of weekend driving and for getting the car to the track If it's your dayli driver you'd still need to decide what is more economical - wearing the tyres unevenly or having the camber adjusted two times for every track day.
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there were some suspension settings that I think originally came from whiteline that gave the best of both (not to heavy tyre wear but improved handling) I think they called it touring spec and the settings were:
Front toe: zero
Front camber: -1.0 degree
Rear toe: 1mm toe out per side
rear camber: As factory
However I do believe these are the settings for a classic so it may be slightly different for the later cars but may be a good place to start
Front toe: zero
Front camber: -1.0 degree
Rear toe: 1mm toe out per side
rear camber: As factory
However I do believe these are the settings for a classic so it may be slightly different for the later cars but may be a good place to start
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Thanks guys yeah mines my daily im not to bothered about the wear its just as im going to be fitting track/road tyres onto my summer alloys i will only do about 2k miles a year, + the odd track day
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my current set up is,
front camber, -0.50 degree's
front toe, -0.1mm
Rear camber, -1.25 degree's
Rear toe, 0.3mm
how does that sound? popped into my local tyre shop that im friendly with as they were quiet i just stuck it on the laser align and checked it!
front camber, -0.50 degree's
front toe, -0.1mm
Rear camber, -1.25 degree's
Rear toe, 0.3mm
how does that sound? popped into my local tyre shop that im friendly with as they were quiet i just stuck it on the laser align and checked it!
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If anything I think you need more front camber if you're going to track days, there's nothing there that should lead to particularly hight tyre wear on the inside.
If those are decimals and not minutes then half a degree is very mild. I'm running quite close to 2 degrees on my classic and want a bit more
If those are decimals and not minutes then half a degree is very mild. I'm running quite close to 2 degrees on my classic and want a bit more
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Same here -2.0 on mine, But mine came like that from the factory being a spec-c, Great turn in and when the DCCD kicks in there is virtually no under steer if you drive it right, keep your foot planted if you let off it can all go horribly wrong
Last edited by The Pink Ninja; 15 October 2012 at 06:30 PM.
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ah you have the spec c settings then! they sound like a good setting that how i want it!
how do you mean when the dccd kicks in, dont think ive ever felt mine "/
how do you mean when the dccd kicks in, dont think ive ever felt mine "/
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