ARB - Should I or shouldn't I???
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ARB - Should I or shouldn't I???
I'm sure Arnie1 or Bonesetter will post some great advise here but I am in two minds about whether I need to fit a front and rear or just a rear ARB.
If I do I will probably go with the Whiteline range but its the size which is also another question for me.
I currently have a 05 blob STI and have recently had a Whiteline ALK with fastroad full geomentry done. I have to admit the ALK is amazing, has in my opionion really made a significant difference to lift and dive on accerating and hard breaking. The car feels more grounded with both these mods done.
My question is, and if I can be convinced what real benefit would I get from a ARB to either the front or back. I know back is the first and best option but what sort of gains will I get in terms of handling here.
What I want to achieve is more stability, control, cornering etc - the usual stuff for handling. The ARB is an inexpense buy and can be fitted easily which is makes it ever so more tempting.
Thanks for posting
If I do I will probably go with the Whiteline range but its the size which is also another question for me.
I currently have a 05 blob STI and have recently had a Whiteline ALK with fastroad full geomentry done. I have to admit the ALK is amazing, has in my opionion really made a significant difference to lift and dive on accerating and hard breaking. The car feels more grounded with both these mods done.
My question is, and if I can be convinced what real benefit would I get from a ARB to either the front or back. I know back is the first and best option but what sort of gains will I get in terms of handling here.
What I want to achieve is more stability, control, cornering etc - the usual stuff for handling. The ARB is an inexpense buy and can be fitted easily which is makes it ever so more tempting.
Thanks for posting
#2
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Am debating which handling mods to do next so interesting to here your feedback on the ALK.
Have you thought about adjustable top mounts which would increase front caster further and allow more -ve camber?
Have you thought about adjustable top mounts which would increase front caster further and allow more -ve camber?
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If you uprate the back you will make the car more prone to oversteer than under steer (under steer from factory) to gain the same balance you need to go even thicker on the rear if you update the front as well it's the difference that affects the balance not the thickness, the thicker the less compliant therefore the more aggressive the loss of traction is when you reach it - there is also more traction (to a point) with thicker bars.
I run the Eibach kit which iirc are 22/25 on my WrX and find it spot on.
I run the Eibach kit which iirc are 22/25 on my WrX and find it spot on.
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I usually settle for a Whiteline 22f/24r combo, front an firm, rear on med. This is on classics and new age. That said, I've ran 22 rear only (on two STi wagons, calssic & new age) which was fine.
It can come down to just personal preference and driving style. Fast & smooth will suit a 22 rear more. Either way, arbs are great upgrade, some say a thicker rear one is essential
It can come down to just personal preference and driving style. Fast & smooth will suit a 22 rear more. Either way, arbs are great upgrade, some say a thicker rear one is essential
#5
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A stiffer rear ARB will make the rear more playful (see oversteer).
I would fit a 22mm rear ARB and see what you think afterwards.
Any thicker and the car will be nervous on the wet or lift off.
Ian, in my previous WRX wagon I had the following done:
- Prodrive springs
- Whiteline ALK
- 22mm front and rear Whiteline ARBs
- Whiteline solid drop links front and rear
- Fast road wheel alignment
- 18" wheels
The car was totally transformed from a boat to handling really well and being fun.
If I were to do it again I would skip the front ARB and rose jointed droplinks (rear droplinks were OK)
The reason is that rose jointed droplinks can cause knocking (due to the angle/design of the front Whiteline ARB I couldn't reuse the OE droplinks).
Also due to the stiffer front ARB (in fact same balance as originally since both front and rear were upgraded but less roll) the car would be understeering at the limit which I didn't like, you had to load the front wheels by heavy braking while turning at the same time in order to get it to turn neutrally or on 4s.
I would fit a 22mm rear ARB and see what you think afterwards.
Any thicker and the car will be nervous on the wet or lift off.
Ian, in my previous WRX wagon I had the following done:
- Prodrive springs
- Whiteline ALK
- 22mm front and rear Whiteline ARBs
- Whiteline solid drop links front and rear
- Fast road wheel alignment
- 18" wheels
The car was totally transformed from a boat to handling really well and being fun.
If I were to do it again I would skip the front ARB and rose jointed droplinks (rear droplinks were OK)
The reason is that rose jointed droplinks can cause knocking (due to the angle/design of the front Whiteline ARB I couldn't reuse the OE droplinks).
Also due to the stiffer front ARB (in fact same balance as originally since both front and rear were upgraded but less roll) the car would be understeering at the limit which I didn't like, you had to load the front wheels by heavy braking while turning at the same time in order to get it to turn neutrally or on 4s.
Last edited by fpan; 28 June 2012 at 12:42 PM.
#6
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When I started on the suspension of mine, I went with solid droplinks all round, and a stiffer REAR arb to dial out the understeer.
I also had the bumpsteer mod done and an ALK fitted, then had the geometry done, all at Powerstation.
I have since had coilovers fitted and the geometry done again, this time at Carnetix.
Getting the geometry right makes a BIG difference.
I also had the bumpsteer mod done and an ALK fitted, then had the geometry done, all at Powerstation.
I have since had coilovers fitted and the geometry done again, this time at Carnetix.
Getting the geometry right makes a BIG difference.
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Thanks Fivos, I suspect that's pretty much the set up I'll end up with - will work on the front geometry first and then then look at ARBs after that... improving turn in is my first target.
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