Suspension Fitting Guide.. ( walk through )
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Suspension Fitting Guide.. ( walk through )
Looking for a dummy's guide to fitting suspension for uprated shocks and springs ( not coilovers ). Not mechanically retarded, so would like to give it a go... am I asking too much ? the springs are fitted to the shicks already...
And also any advice would be warmly welcomed.
Cheers
Jim
And also any advice would be warmly welcomed.
Cheers
Jim
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There's a sticky with the workshop manual, Im quite sure it tells you in that mate, i was looking for info on fitting coilovers, doesnt seem that hard to do according to the manual.
Only thing is it states to use new self locking nuts but I couldnt find what size they are from the manual.
Only thing is it states to use new self locking nuts but I couldnt find what size they are from the manual.
Last edited by Sti Addict; 18 May 2012 at 02:36 PM.
#3
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Unbolt 2 bolts at the bottom, 3 in the top, pull shock out.
Replace with replacement shock.
Use workshop manual for correct torques.
Get alignment done.
OK, I'm being a bit glib. But it really is very easy. The hardest bit is using spring compressors correctly if you need to pull the shocks apart to build up your new ones with the old top mounts or something, but like for like replacement really is easy.
Replace with replacement shock.
Use workshop manual for correct torques.
Get alignment done.
OK, I'm being a bit glib. But it really is very easy. The hardest bit is using spring compressors correctly if you need to pull the shocks apart to build up your new ones with the old top mounts or something, but like for like replacement really is easy.
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If you need to use old top mounts you need a 17mm socket with flats ground on it to get an open ended spanner on it. Then an allen key in the top to stop shock moving. Best to slacken them on the car but theres not much room to work on the rears. Alternatively an impact gun if you can borrow one.
then spring compressors to strip apart.
then spring compressors to strip apart.
Last edited by scooby-k; 18 May 2012 at 10:23 PM.
#5
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Might not need spring compressors if you have any kind of dropped height spring ie STi/P1/Tein etc. As the 17mm nut slackens the play the spring will become free.
Also, be sure to align the top hat correctly on reassembly, which is eccentric, this ensures the spring sits in its perch correctly and is at the correct angle. There's 3 holes in the top hat, one bigger than the others which aligns forward. Nothing complicated, just look down on the one you're taking off to see what I mean.
Very easy job, rears take longer, but very easy
Also, be sure to align the top hat correctly on reassembly, which is eccentric, this ensures the spring sits in its perch correctly and is at the correct angle. There's 3 holes in the top hat, one bigger than the others which aligns forward. Nothing complicated, just look down on the one you're taking off to see what I mean.
Very easy job, rears take longer, but very easy
#6
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Not using spring compressors is bad advice, IMO. Pissing about with springs is one of the most dangerous things a home mechanic can do.
Last edited by Dave Hedgehog; 19 May 2012 at 10:49 AM.
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