Who makes adj top mounts,classic fitment ?

 

Noltec i'm sure making them
http://www.mocomracing.com/product_d...6&cat=4&sub=44

or have look for JiC too or Whiteline selling too,but not sure if they are for Classic,or contact this company

Turn in Concept


http://turninconcepts.com/index.php?...1355_1380_1390


Jura

 

Cheers jura,like the look of the noltec ones.

 

Have you guys see the MSI/DMS plates?

 

Post up a pic guys!

 

cusco

 

And just for fun - GD chassis rears.

 

Just wondering what difference top mounts make if at all?

I know the geometry can be altered but is it worth doing?

I will getting Kw v3 in the new year, and also need top mounts.

 

quite a bit actually. I'll run though them here.

1) Obviously there's the adjustment of camber. We recommend using the plates to push in as much as logical for gross adjustment and THEN using the camber bolts below for fine tuning.
2) This will help improve your scrub radius.
3) A solid mount removes some of the undamped spring from the system allowing the actual spring and damper to do their jobs. Here's the deal, stock ones are there to hold things together, but are rubber based to isolate noise to allow for more appeal to the 80% market. While rubber is great for this it is also a spring, and in this case an undamped spring. This is bad.
4) One more benefit of camber plates that is often not discussed is that on a macpherson setup it will actually improve dynamic camber recovery. Now this one is a little tricky so I'll outline it a bit more.

Often you will find that people talk about camber recovery in this setup, and how it gets bad when the control arm is parallel to the ground. This is actually just a rule of thumb.

There are a couple of things at play here. First, it's not the control arm but the line from points of rotation. In other words from the inboard bolt centers to the centerline of the ball joint. That's your first one.

The second one is the line through the strut running near vertically. when the convergence of those two lines meet 90* to each other and greater you start to roll the tire toward positive camber, and thus affect contact patch shape on the loaded tire causing a loss of grip (contact patch goes from wide to long, yes it grows as you're putting more weight on it, BUT you also start to roll over on the tire edge.

So, by pushing the strut inward at the top you give it more room to move before it hits the 90* critical angle.