scoobyandscrappy

Hi just need some hints and tips about fitting some BC coilovers to a classic scoobs i'll be doing this.friday and the weekend
What should i do 1st?
Do i need to de-adjust the springs?
any help need please

scoobyandscrappy

Any help please

Baker

Not sure if its any help but im going to attempt to fit my coilovers sometime soon and I came accross this thread:

https://www.scoobynet.com/suspension...e-classic.html

Seems to have a good link on how to remove the existing suspension, its what im going to follow.

jh1-2009

I allway,s have a fast road geometry set up. Makes a big difference imo.

MrNoisy

iTrader: (28)

There are some great threads on several sites on how to fit BC coilovers mate, have a good go on google and you should be sorted.
A few hints:

- I needed to visit a local garage to get them to undo all my hub bolts with an impact driver - even with a 30" breaker bar I couldn't get the *******s undone! If you have access to a post lift it would probably be far easier!
If you can't get these off you're in trouble.
- You should set the pretension on the springs before fitting them to the car.
- Smear copper grease down the thread of the coilover body as it makes it easier to adjust them on the car.
- Measure twice, fit once!
- You will also want a set of spring compressors if want to make life a little easier removing the old ones (although you can do the job without).
- You'll want a torque wrench to prevent over tightening anything.
- Be conservative with the height settings. I tried to make mine a similar height to the first shock I removed.
Also, front and rears are different sizes, so I advise trying to measure the distance from the hub to the distance at the top of the suspension turret, then trying to reproduce.
You'll probably find the car sits lower when you fit them, even if you did do the above; I had to wind mine up about 20mm after initial fitting as the bottom of my splitter kept scraping on kerbs and speed bumps.

Be prepared for the wheels coming on and off a few times until you reach a happy medium with the suspension.
Also, finally, height-wise, if you want a relatively comfortable ride, don't set it stupidly low or you'll pay for it big time. And regardless of what some might say, the soft - hard settings only offer slightly finer control on this.
Oh, and one final warning - if you're considering slamming the car on the floor, thinking you can then whack the suspension up to full soft, you'll end up with a car that's extremely uncomfortable and bounces down the road - horrible to drive!
Mine's slightly lower at the front than the original height I was running on OEM shocks and Prodrive springs, and I may still drop it a little more at the rear, and I run a setting about 10-12 from hardest all round, which seems to suit roads around where I am.

Near my folks in Wiltshire, it's a bloody hard ride though - so take that into consideration.

Darrell@Scoobyworx

iTrader: (5)

No need to copper slip the BC's mines been on nearly 12 months and threads stay in good condition and don't rust like many other brands

scoobyandscrappy

Thanks for the advise everyone but how do u pretension the spring?

MrNoisy

iTrader: (28)

That's the advice from Apex mate, hence I followed it. Its not so much about rust it's keeping them serviceable.

Darrell@Scoobyworx

iTrader: (5)

Its just my opinion mate neither right or wrong, I do jet wash the arches out each week and keep the threads clean of dirt etc so if its on a car which isnt cleaned as maticulasly as mine then maybe its a good idea. Although only add a light coating or loads of crap sticks to them. Best thing is to put plenty on the threads then wipe round with a cloth, this takes excess off and leaves a thin coating to do the job of protecting them

Arnie_1

Agree with a thin bit of copper grease on the threads underneath the lock rings. Definitely wipe off the excess as it will attract dirt and grit. One area you really need to grease are the threads on the lower clevis. Make sure you screw the lower clevis down a bit and get some grease on the damper body before raising the clevis back up. This area is pretty critical to grease. If you don't take care of this before install, the main damper tube will seize to that clevis and you will not be able to adjust your ride height, even if you get your lock rings off.