hawkeye arb setups ????
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hawkeye arb setups ????
calling all hawkeye owners.
planning on changing the droplinks frt and rear and upgrading the front and rear anti roll bars, but there is so much conflicting info regards to the best sizes front and rear and adjustable/ non-adjustable.
i will never use the car on a track, just daily A/B roads with occasional motorway. i dont want to lower the car just tighten the handling up, but not ruin the ride quality (hence not wanting to lower).
initial thoughts are 22mm frt (non-adjustable) 24mm rear (adjustable- middle setting) would that sound correct for what i am after? what would i need to be aware of with this setup ( loose back end= unstable in the wet etc)
just after some advice on what setups you are running.
thanks in advance.
planning on changing the droplinks frt and rear and upgrading the front and rear anti roll bars, but there is so much conflicting info regards to the best sizes front and rear and adjustable/ non-adjustable.
i will never use the car on a track, just daily A/B roads with occasional motorway. i dont want to lower the car just tighten the handling up, but not ruin the ride quality (hence not wanting to lower).
initial thoughts are 22mm frt (non-adjustable) 24mm rear (adjustable- middle setting) would that sound correct for what i am after? what would i need to be aware of with this setup ( loose back end= unstable in the wet etc)
just after some advice on what setups you are running.
thanks in advance.
Last edited by imprezajon; 16 January 2011 at 07:37 PM.
#2
I am running Perrin bars and links on my Hawkeye STI 22mm front and either 24 or 25mm on the back, both on the softest settings. I find this setup to be fine with no understeer and only oversteers if you get really silly in the wet !
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I got an adjustable rear ARB first and was impressed enough to invest in a front bar later.
Stick the rear bar on first and adjust to suit your driving style.
Then add the front bar if you want more later.
IMHO.
dunx
Stick the rear bar on first and adjust to suit your driving style.
Then add the front bar if you want more later.
IMHO.
dunx
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Hello Dunx. I'm thinking of going for the 22mm at the front. Is it worthwhile? Is the upgrade noticeable?
The 24mm at rear made a huge difference.
And how close to 500 are you these days, Mate?
The 24mm at rear made a huge difference.
And how close to 500 are you these days, Mate?
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cheers for the replys so far.
dunx- did you fit an adjustable 22mm frt or a non-adjustable please???
also looking at the whiteline bar's as they do the sizes recomended but am also looking a kw racing bars but they only do 23mm frt and 24mm rear but non-adjustable.
dunx- did you fit an adjustable 22mm frt or a non-adjustable please???
also looking at the whiteline bar's as they do the sizes recomended but am also looking a kw racing bars but they only do 23mm frt and 24mm rear but non-adjustable.
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In general I prefer adjustable bars, F/R because I like to fiddle and fine tune to my tires and driving conditions. At the minimum when fall/winter come along and I am running winter tires I soften up my bars, F/R. Not enough grip to warrant the higher roll resistance of the stiffer settings. Its nice to have the options and for the few extra quid, I think its money well spent.
Sizes are usually dependent on tire choice, driving conditions/situation and driving style. The Whiteline 22F/24R is a good all around setup, with reduced understeer and decent compliance for ride comfort. I would look into using WL's poly/alu endlinks. Much more suited for general road use. Avoid the spherical endlinks unless its for motorsport as they get a bit clunky and loud. Their new adjustable HD Balljoint endlinks are also a nice option but, ideally, should be used if you are cornerweighting a car equipped with coilovers.
Sizes are usually dependent on tire choice, driving conditions/situation and driving style. The Whiteline 22F/24R is a good all around setup, with reduced understeer and decent compliance for ride comfort. I would look into using WL's poly/alu endlinks. Much more suited for general road use. Avoid the spherical endlinks unless its for motorsport as they get a bit clunky and loud. Their new adjustable HD Balljoint endlinks are also a nice option but, ideally, should be used if you are cornerweighting a car equipped with coilovers.
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I did get the adjustable front bar but it's always been "stiff"... but as stated being able to fine tune the car's behaviour is better overall.
After a couple of years I now know that a massive "chuck it in - lift off - and catch the slide" option is available at every roundabout. BUT more importantly to me, most of the time the car is just totally planted, at my age I can't do with a twitchy nervous car, it's too much like hard work.
HTH
dunx
P.S. Hi Bob, i'm still running >2 bar of boost, and it feels ballistic, but Enginetuner are building me a 2.1 that SHOULD make it to 501 bhp !
After a couple of years I now know that a massive "chuck it in - lift off - and catch the slide" option is available at every roundabout. BUT more importantly to me, most of the time the car is just totally planted, at my age I can't do with a twitchy nervous car, it's too much like hard work.
HTH
dunx
P.S. Hi Bob, i'm still running >2 bar of boost, and it feels ballistic, but Enginetuner are building me a 2.1 that SHOULD make it to 501 bhp !
#9
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I was thinking of doing arbs myself and then spotted the droplink, alk and pitchmount groupbuy. What do you guys think of doing the lot? And any views on the cdf racing product?
Btw way if I did arbs it would be whiteline 22/24 adjustable on my 07 Hawkeye.
Btw way if I did arbs it would be whiteline 22/24 adjustable on my 07 Hawkeye.
Last edited by Geds; 17 January 2011 at 10:28 PM.
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