2006 Hawkeye rear shocks knocking
18 October 2010, 12:01 PM
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2006 Hawkeye rear shocks knocking
Hi all,
My car has just hit 50k miles (cant believe it) and I have the classic "Clonk" noise coming from the back. I have had a good look at it and the exhaust is fine as are the bushes so I can only think the shocks are on their way out.
My question is should I replace the rear shocks and springs along with the front springs while its being done.
I am more than likely going to get Subaru4u to do it when they service the car (subject to funds on pay day).
Also what combo would you recommend as I don't really want to mix manufacturers for springs.
As always thanks in advance for your help
Steve
My car has just hit 50k miles (cant believe it) and I have the classic "Clonk" noise coming from the back. I have had a good look at it and the exhaust is fine as are the bushes so I can only think the shocks are on their way out.
My question is should I replace the rear shocks and springs along with the front springs while its being done.
I am more than likely going to get Subaru4u to do it when they service the car (subject to funds on pay day).
Also what combo would you recommend as I don't really want to mix manufacturers for springs.
As always thanks in advance for your help
Steve
18 October 2010, 12:46 PM
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on the back drivers side (under bumper)there is a charcoal filter that is held in place with to bolts its about 6''x 6'' one of my bolts had fallen out and it was knocking
could be worth a check first.
could be worth a check first.
18 October 2010, 12:58 PM
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Thanks for that I will check it ASAP as I have just had a quote from Subaru4U and it looks like each corner for parts alone is £375 without fitting. Rick and I have had a very long chat and it looks as though Subaru are the only suppliers for shocks/springs.
I will of course go a hunting on the web to see what's out there.
Thanks
Steve
I will of course go a hunting on the web to see what's out there.
Thanks
Steve
18 October 2010, 02:41 PM
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Here yo go m8 have a look here http://www.grahamgoode.com/subaru/pa...oup=114&nav=10 Thats where i got my rears for a 2006 hawkeye.
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20 October 2010, 06:55 PM
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Mine have been knocking on MY05 STI for about 7 months now. Subaru wanted just under £1k to replace just the rears
so I have just left them.
The knocking drives me mad
sometimes but it drives fine and it has just passed it's MOT last week with no problems. I have just learned to live with the noise. I might go down the BC's route soon but it's just finding a good company to fit and set them up in the Epsom, Surrey area.
so I have just left them. The knocking drives me mad
sometimes but it drives fine and it has just passed it's MOT last week with no problems. I have just learned to live with the noise. I might go down the BC's route soon but it's just finding a good company to fit and set them up in the Epsom, Surrey area.
21 October 2010, 09:42 AM
#10
Just rang my main dealer. Even though my car is out of warranty now, as the noisy (clonking) strut was fitted less than 12 months ago they may be able to change it for free and claim under the original warranty. Fingers crossed. Car going in to be looked at on Saturday.
Forgot to tell them I have fitted tein s tech springs and various other 'upgrade' parts since the warranty ended. Oops
If the answer is no, then I’ll change all the struts down the line for coilovers! Job done!
Forgot to tell them I have fitted tein s tech springs and various other 'upgrade' parts since the warranty ended. Oops
If the answer is no, then I’ll change all the struts down the line for coilovers! Job done!
21 October 2010, 11:37 AM
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If they are genuine shocks they should have 3 years warranty on them. The springs might be a problem, they don't like paying out. If I were to change shocks I'd be inclined to go down the AST route.
21 October 2010, 10:47 PM
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I believe a trip to the nice people at BC racing in the new years is called for 
and a 
to Subaru original parts
I just wonder
if they do springs for fat arsed middle aged blokes who do lots of miles in Scoobys
and a to Subaru original parts I just wonder
if they do springs for fat arsed middle aged blokes who do lots of miles in Scoobys
24 October 2010, 05:30 PM
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24 October 2010, 06:21 PM
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Interested to know how the AST's are on the spec D too. better ride quality than the std shocks? I find mine a little bouncy, especially compared to my old UK2000 classic.
25 October 2010, 09:03 AM
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My problem has been the rear offside - first one was refurbished at just over 2 years old but the unit had been leaking for some time (oil patches on the drive). I got Curtis to refurb all 4 and change the settings (see below) and was told there had been a quality problem with the seals which had been solved so I felt confident that the newly refurbed set would last longer.
Wrong! I noticed the same unit had oil staining on it in March this year and, assuming I had a 1 year warranty, I thought I had until August to do something about it and still had a few months to try to fit in a visit to Powerstation which is not local to me. Unfortunately, I was wrong and discovered too late that they had been fitted the previous May. I still haven’t done anything about it.
Definitely better than the standard shocks – I found I was wincing just going over shadows on the road they were so harsh probably not helped by the RE070s.
I originally had a 2000 WRX import and the handling and comfort on that was spot on – excellent handling with compliant suspension – it was brilliant and I was hoping to recreate it so I knew I was going to change the suspension before I bought my Spec D and when I first had the ASTs fitted they were not right – it was bouncing all over the place and crashing out at the slightest provocation. I went back to Curtis, we went for a long drive, and he changed the internal settings all for no charge – can’t complain about the service!
At the time, it felt a lot better and I was happy. However, over time the bounciness appeared to come back and the crashing was still present although neither were as bad as previously.
When I went back last year to get the units refurbed, I again mentioned it was still nowhere near the quality of my Classic and Curtis changed the settings again and again, at the time, I went away happier. Now, over 1 year on, the suspension is still bouncy, it still frequently crashes out and driving is generally very uncomfortable and, bearing in mind the car was developed for rallying, the handling is not good. However, driving on smooth tarmac, especially the new porous type that reduces spray, is pure pleasure but you don’t get too much of it!
I think one of the problems is the internal valves change (wear?) over time and lose the ability to control the movement. Another problem, in my opinion, is that the springs and shocks don’t seem to be balanced but I don’t have enough knowledge to know what needs tightening up to avoid the crashing out (springs?) and what needs loosening to avoid the harsh uncomfortable ride (fast bounce?) but still maintain control of the bounce (slow bounce or rebound?).
I was recently speaking to an owner of one of the new STIs and he was of the opinion that the suspension on that was better than his Classic. As he was of a similar vintage to me I felt relatively confident of his feedback and was wondering if the fundamental settings of the new car could be recreated on my Spec D. ie spring rates and shock settings. Does anyone know what they are?
Wrong! I noticed the same unit had oil staining on it in March this year and, assuming I had a 1 year warranty, I thought I had until August to do something about it and still had a few months to try to fit in a visit to Powerstation which is not local to me. Unfortunately, I was wrong and discovered too late that they had been fitted the previous May. I still haven’t done anything about it.
Definitely better than the standard shocks – I found I was wincing just going over shadows on the road they were so harsh probably not helped by the RE070s.
I originally had a 2000 WRX import and the handling and comfort on that was spot on – excellent handling with compliant suspension – it was brilliant and I was hoping to recreate it so I knew I was going to change the suspension before I bought my Spec D and when I first had the ASTs fitted they were not right – it was bouncing all over the place and crashing out at the slightest provocation. I went back to Curtis, we went for a long drive, and he changed the internal settings all for no charge – can’t complain about the service!
At the time, it felt a lot better and I was happy. However, over time the bounciness appeared to come back and the crashing was still present although neither were as bad as previously.
When I went back last year to get the units refurbed, I again mentioned it was still nowhere near the quality of my Classic and Curtis changed the settings again and again, at the time, I went away happier. Now, over 1 year on, the suspension is still bouncy, it still frequently crashes out and driving is generally very uncomfortable and, bearing in mind the car was developed for rallying, the handling is not good. However, driving on smooth tarmac, especially the new porous type that reduces spray, is pure pleasure but you don’t get too much of it!
I think one of the problems is the internal valves change (wear?) over time and lose the ability to control the movement. Another problem, in my opinion, is that the springs and shocks don’t seem to be balanced but I don’t have enough knowledge to know what needs tightening up to avoid the crashing out (springs?) and what needs loosening to avoid the harsh uncomfortable ride (fast bounce?) but still maintain control of the bounce (slow bounce or rebound?).
I was recently speaking to an owner of one of the new STIs and he was of the opinion that the suspension on that was better than his Classic. As he was of a similar vintage to me I felt relatively confident of his feedback and was wondering if the fundamental settings of the new car could be recreated on my Spec D. ie spring rates and shock settings. Does anyone know what they are?
Last edited by GeeDee; 25 October 2010 at 12:31 PM.
25 October 2010, 11:45 AM
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I've had BC's on my 03sti for 2 years this December, no issues here apart from the extra noises from solid topmounts-the performance is so much better than std stuff.
dipster
dipster
25 October 2010, 02:35 PM
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25 October 2010, 02:43 PM
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On reflection I believe the BC will be the best bet for me but I am going to go for a more softer rather than the sporter setup. I was looking on scoobyworld and they have a stage 3 kit that has a complimenting parts that the guys will put together to fit my needs.
Has anybody used these guys before are they reputable ?
Has anybody used these guys before are they reputable ?
25 October 2010, 02:43 PM
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On reflection I believe the BC will be the best bet for me but I am going to go for a more softer rather than the sporter setup. I was looking on scoobyworld and they have a stage 3 kit that has a complimenting parts that the guys will put together to fit my needs.
Has anybody used these guys before are they reputable ?
Has anybody used these guys before are they reputable ?
26 October 2010, 06:59 PM
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Changing the struts is such an easy job any car mechanic can do it easily.
You will be suprised what an improvement just this mod makes, rather than go for an expensive 'package'
dipster
You will be suprised what an improvement just this mod makes, rather than go for an expensive 'package'
dipster
Last edited by davedipster; 27 October 2010 at 03:52 PM.
26 October 2010, 10:42 PM
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Here yo go m8 have a look here http://www.grahamgoode.com/subaru/pa...oup=114&nav=10 Thats where i got my rears for a 2006 hawkeye.
Koni's are inserts only! i nearly made a mistake of buying them.
26 October 2010, 10:43 PM
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On reflection I believe the BC will be the best bet for me but I am going to go for a more softer rather than the sporter setup. I was looking on scoobyworld and they have a stage 3 kit that has a complimenting parts that the guys will put together to fit my needs.
Has anybody used these guys before are they reputable ?
Has anybody used these guys before are they reputable ?
it was cheaper for me to get the boat over, drive down and have fitted than to have it sent to IOM then get someone to fit it all !!
Last edited by Barty77; 26 October 2010 at 10:44 PM.
i was affraid they would be crashy but they arent well worth the spend
08 November 2010, 07:11 PM
#26
My problem has been the rear offside - first one was refurbished at just over 2 years old but the unit had been leaking for some time (oil patches on the drive). I got Curtis to refurb all 4 and change the settings (see below) and was told there had been a quality problem with the seals which had been solved so I felt confident that the newly refurbed set would last longer.
Wrong! I noticed the same unit had oil staining on it in March this year and, assuming I had a 1 year warranty, I thought I had until August to do something about it and still had a few months to try to fit in a visit to Powerstation which is not local to me. Unfortunately, I was wrong and discovered too late that they had been fitted the previous May. I still haven’t done anything about it.
Definitely better than the standard shocks – I found I was wincing just going over shadows on the road they were so harsh probably not helped by the RE070s.
I originally had a 2000 WRX import and the handling and comfort on that was spot on – excellent handling with compliant suspension – it was brilliant and I was hoping to recreate it so I knew I was going to change the suspension before I bought my Spec D and when I first had the ASTs fitted they were not right – it was bouncing all over the place and crashing out at the slightest provocation. I went back to Curtis, we went for a long drive, and he changed the internal settings all for no charge – can’t complain about the service!
At the time, it felt a lot better and I was happy. However, over time the bounciness appeared to come back and the crashing was still present although neither were as bad as previously.
When I went back last year to get the units refurbed, I again mentioned it was still nowhere near the quality of my Classic and Curtis changed the settings again and again, at the time, I went away happier. Now, over 1 year on, the suspension is still bouncy, it still frequently crashes out and driving is generally very uncomfortable and, bearing in mind the car was developed for rallying, the handling is not good. However, driving on smooth tarmac, especially the new porous type that reduces spray, is pure pleasure but you don’t get too much of it!
I think one of the problems is the internal valves change (wear?) over time and lose the ability to control the movement. Another problem, in my opinion, is that the springs and shocks don’t seem to be balanced but I don’t have enough knowledge to know what needs tightening up to avoid the crashing out (springs?) and what needs loosening to avoid the harsh uncomfortable ride (fast bounce?) but still maintain control of the bounce (slow bounce or rebound?).
I was recently speaking to an owner of one of the new STIs and he was of the opinion that the suspension on that was better than his Classic. As he was of a similar vintage to me I felt relatively confident of his feedback and was wondering if the fundamental settings of the new car could be recreated on my Spec D. ie spring rates and shock settings. Does anyone know what they are?
Wrong! I noticed the same unit had oil staining on it in March this year and, assuming I had a 1 year warranty, I thought I had until August to do something about it and still had a few months to try to fit in a visit to Powerstation which is not local to me. Unfortunately, I was wrong and discovered too late that they had been fitted the previous May. I still haven’t done anything about it.
Definitely better than the standard shocks – I found I was wincing just going over shadows on the road they were so harsh probably not helped by the RE070s.
I originally had a 2000 WRX import and the handling and comfort on that was spot on – excellent handling with compliant suspension – it was brilliant and I was hoping to recreate it so I knew I was going to change the suspension before I bought my Spec D and when I first had the ASTs fitted they were not right – it was bouncing all over the place and crashing out at the slightest provocation. I went back to Curtis, we went for a long drive, and he changed the internal settings all for no charge – can’t complain about the service!
At the time, it felt a lot better and I was happy. However, over time the bounciness appeared to come back and the crashing was still present although neither were as bad as previously.
When I went back last year to get the units refurbed, I again mentioned it was still nowhere near the quality of my Classic and Curtis changed the settings again and again, at the time, I went away happier. Now, over 1 year on, the suspension is still bouncy, it still frequently crashes out and driving is generally very uncomfortable and, bearing in mind the car was developed for rallying, the handling is not good. However, driving on smooth tarmac, especially the new porous type that reduces spray, is pure pleasure but you don’t get too much of it!
I think one of the problems is the internal valves change (wear?) over time and lose the ability to control the movement. Another problem, in my opinion, is that the springs and shocks don’t seem to be balanced but I don’t have enough knowledge to know what needs tightening up to avoid the crashing out (springs?) and what needs loosening to avoid the harsh uncomfortable ride (fast bounce?) but still maintain control of the bounce (slow bounce or rebound?).
I was recently speaking to an owner of one of the new STIs and he was of the opinion that the suspension on that was better than his Classic. As he was of a similar vintage to me I felt relatively confident of his feedback and was wondering if the fundamental settings of the new car could be recreated on my Spec D. ie spring rates and shock settings. Does anyone know what they are?
NSR certainly is the Achilles heel in this model of Subaru :-(
09 November 2010, 08:21 PM
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I did this to my blobeye's shocks after they went 'clonk'.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYiP4DG_OQU
I kept them topped them up with grease and they never made a noise again.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYiP4DG_OQU
I kept them topped them up with grease and they never made a noise again.
Last edited by 14N-FR; 09 November 2010 at 08:23 PM.
19 November 2010, 11:11 AM
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If thats cured the problem, then why don't Subaru install the struts with the grease nipples pre fitted. After all the warranty claims they must have spent out on?? I'm going to have a go at this because mine are knocking like mad, after being replaced once on my current car and twice on the previous one.
Did it take long?
Did it take long?
19 November 2010, 12:14 PM
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I cant say why Subaru didnt do it, but I tried this on my blobeye after hearing about it on IWSTi at the start of the year.
I also read on SIDC that someone repacked their shocks with new grease (basically the same thing as this minus the grease points).
I drove the car for 8 weeks while I was on leave and they never made a sound. Wheras before when I had repacked them, the noise appeared again after about 2 weeks. The benifit of the grease nipple method is that eventually the grease will fill the entire cavity of the shock body and the noise should (in theory stop all together).
The areas effected on the shock legs is quite evident when you take them apart.
All in all it took me around 3-4 hours to do this and most of this time was spent removing all the old hard grease. I 'borrowed' the grease nipples for the ship I work on and bought a grease gun from Machine Mart for £12. I topped up the grease every 2 weeks until I couldn't grease them up any more.
I also read on SIDC that someone repacked their shocks with new grease (basically the same thing as this minus the grease points).
I drove the car for 8 weeks while I was on leave and they never made a sound. Wheras before when I had repacked them, the noise appeared again after about 2 weeks. The benifit of the grease nipple method is that eventually the grease will fill the entire cavity of the shock body and the noise should (in theory stop all together).
The areas effected on the shock legs is quite evident when you take them apart.
All in all it took me around 3-4 hours to do this and most of this time was spent removing all the old hard grease. I 'borrowed' the grease nipples for the ship I work on and bought a grease gun from Machine Mart for £12. I topped up the grease every 2 weeks until I couldn't grease them up any more.
Last edited by 14N-FR; 19 November 2010 at 12:17 PM.