Just bought some apex coilovers for sti 02 and I am trying to save the cost of fitting. Is it an easy job for a novice, What tools will I need (trolley jack, socket set etc), Do I need to torque to a certain amount, where do I start? Any help whatsoever would be appreciated and as detailed as possible.

Thanks,
Andy

 

once on mate the geo will need a pro to set up but not that difficult to change mate

https://www.scoobynet.com/wales-26/8...er-05-wrx.html

 

If you have any doubts whatsoever then get it done by someone who knows what they are doing. As a minimum you'll need:

Trolley jack
Axel stands
Breaker bar (I can guarantee the nuts on the hubs will be solid)
Coil spring compressors.

Getting the struts out is relatively straight forward, but if you need to reuse any of the spring seats or top-mounts you'll need to strip the struts, which can be a PITA. Ideally you'll need a bench vice or a workbench to clamp the struts, but it can be done without. You will need to strip out the rear seats.

Why not post up in the West Midlands section and see if anyone can help you out.

 

Thx guys that's great. good thinking about west mids thread ;D

 

You will not need spring compressors to fit coilovers.
It really is easy. If you can service your car ie. oil change then you can do struts.
Breaker bar, six sided sockets and open ended spanners is a must though, for those bottom strut bolts.

dipster.

 

What do I do about torque on the strut bolts as I don't want to over tighten them (did it once with a strut brace).

 

get a torque wrench simples....lol

 

But you will need the spring compressors to strip the old struts apart if you need to re-use the top mounts.

 

Lol I know I need a torque wrench pinky but how tight, what setting? Bc/apex now come with oe style rubber top mounts so I don't think I need to strip the old ones.

 

I was about to say the same!
If the original struts have never been out before, as said, the two strut to hub bolts will be TIGHT! unless the camber on the front has been re-set at some time, at which they would have been slackened to adjust the camber bolt.
You'll be surprised how straightforward the job is.

JohnD

 

i prob be able to get the torque setting for the oe set up off the subaru service manual for you but dont know if they would be the same for your coilovers mate if it dont say any different on any of the manuals you got with the coilovers cant see it being different but cant be positive on that sorry

 

instructions are missing from box

 

Got mine today and no instruction leaflet. Fortunately, I've had the suspension to bits before, so it's not a problem but -
1) Is the pre-load set before installation (If so, it would have been done at the factory?) or after installation while still jacked, to ensure the strut is fully extended?
2) Amount of pre-load?
3) Re-set pre-load after how many miles (to compensate for spring settle)

Think I'll send an enquiry to Bren via the BC website. I'll post his reply.

JohnD

PS I've just posted some questions in the group buy thread as I saw that Bren had recently posted in there.

 

http://www.bcracing-na.com/HEIGHTADJUSTMENT.htm

dipster

 

Looking at those instructions, one thing that made me think was the camber adjustment where it says to slacken the two strut to hub bolts - why? With the standard set-up these are slackened to allow the hub angle to be altered in relation to the strut, giving camber. On top mount adjustment, the whole assembly is tilted to give camber? Slackening the bolts may allow a small amount of movement of the strut but not the hub!

JohnD

 

Yep you are correct, I also ignored that point.

dipster

 

all 4 fitted now but have it way too low mud flaps scrape when cornering also im sure i can hear a grinding noise on sharp right hand cornering??

 

Did you set the pre-load? Out of the box I've found that on a couple of the units, I can turn the springs by hand!
Did you fit the units as supplied and found it was too low? It could be a tyre fouling a wheelarch?

JohnD

 

Yes straight out the box. can I check/change pre load now they are on the vehicle? The spring would be shorter yes?

 

If you jack and remove the wheel, the strut will be at full extension. Undo the locking collar (smaller one) undo the spring seat collar until you can just turn the spring by hand. Tighten that collar by hand to just clamp the spring then give 2 turns using the C spanner. This should give 4mm of pre-load. tighten the locking collar onto the spring seat collar.
While it's jacked, you could wind out the strut from the hub mount to raise the car, again, 2 turns will raise the car 4mm.
JohnD

Just been to the shed to check mine (won't be fitted for a week or so) and although I can turn the spring by hand, they are in fact pre-loaded.
If I were you, I'd concentrate on getting the ride height to a sensible figure then experiment with the damping.

 

Wht geo should I have done any ideas?

 

ok had a play with hight and pre load got that sorted but when i took it in for tracking drivers side rear had -4 degrees and could only be moved to -2 degrees and no further with camber bolts could the top mount be fitted backwards? also the fronts seem to rattle and knock a little at low speed small bumps. Think i may just throw it at someone like powerstation to sort out. thx for all the help guys ;D

Before:


After:

not a massive drop but my flaps catch leaving the drive onto the road, i could just take a stanley to them and drop some more

 

superb dipster you just saved me some messing about fitted mine before i left work yesterday didnt have time to mess with the height just got them on and done my camber.. man do they sit low !! but as the old saying goes if it dont scrub it aint low enough lol.. aye right al have no tyres in a week..height will be set in 20 mins now when i get in 2moro thanks again dipster

 

Are you saying that with maximum positive camber on the top mount and maximum positive camber on the camber bolts, you can't get below 2deg negative camber? If so, there must be something wrong somewhere?
The car looks as low as you would wisely go for the public roads - don't forget those road humps!


JohnD

 

height looks good i wouldnt touch it either to be honest..

 

No adjustment on rear top mounts but i did fit camber bolts and i still cant get below 2 deg negative although the alignment guy did struggle with the camber adjustments on the front topmounts (because the computer didnt show him how with a picture ).

Was only thinking about shaving another 5mm or 10mm off but seeing your comments i may leave it as is.

 

Sorry, my mistake. I thought you were refering to the front. Still strange that you've got that much neg. camber at the rear!
Let us know if you find what is causing the rattle at the front?

JohnD

 

Fitted the fronts this morning, will do the rears tomorrow.
I took the precaution of unscrewing the hub mount and copper greasing the threads as recommended by Bren then re-fitting leaving the units 10mm longer and I'm glad I did as the front now sits a bit lower than when on the Prodrive springs but if I had left them "out of the box" it would have been far too low. I will need to raise them about 10mm to get the height I want, to clear the road humps round here!
I've lengthened the rears in readyness for fitting.

JohnD

 

My rears were almost 30mm extra lower than the fronts in comparison.

 

I added 20mm to each before fitting, otherwise they would of been WAY low.

dipster