Toomanycars

iTrader: (1)

I have recently bought an X reg Classic Turbo that has already had a good selection of general all round mods but i want to take it to the next level but am stumped about what to do?


It has a Whiteline Rear ARB and Droplinks and a Front Strut Brace,so i'm thinking any or all of the following.......

Anti Lift Kit
H Brace
Rear Strut Brace
Front ARB
Front Droplinks
Lowering Springs

Any help or advice would be much appreciated as different things i've read on here seem to conflict each other as to the merits of things like the ALK and it's benefits!!

dunx

iTrader: (3)

I vote yes for the ALK... or you can go for adjustable top mounts instead.

But I'm no expert on classics.

dunx

ratboy

iTrader: (4)

The best things you can do are the rear ARB and links already done and get the geo done.
I found 2 digrees negitive was a nice set up and sorted all understeer.
Coilovers will also sort the handeling right out.
The other stuff you mention will help,but not such a big effect as the above.
Remember uprating the front ARB can cancel out the rear a bit so try and get a smaller front than rear ARB or put the rear one on a harder setting if its adjustable....

Toomanycars

iTrader: (1)

When you say you set your's up with 2 degrees negative i assume you mean the tracking?

Am i right in thinking that this is only the front?

Have you noticed that it get's through tyres any / much quicker?

The problem is where i am there are no specialists to set the allignment up to anything other than standard settings............i think the nearest would be Powerstation in Tewkesbury and that's about 100 odd miles away,so if i knew what to tell the local tyre place to set the allignment to,it would potentially save me a load of hassle!!

Unless of course anyone know's someone in the Somerset / Avon area?

Fangoria

iTrader: (1)

-2 is quite high unless your doing a lot of trackdays?
You usually need Camber Bolts to get to that level of Camber...

If its normal road driving I'd go for a maximum of 1 degree 30 mins otherwise you will wear the tyres out in no time
And yes you need roughly the same camber all round

ALK is a waste of time if you set the car up properly in the first place
Front ARB is a necessity if you've uprated the rear ARB and putting the rear ARB in the more hard of the 3 usual settings then your asking for it to flip the rear end in fast driving into some of the bends - I know as have done just that on a number of occasions before I fitted an uprated front ARB

So for me it would be Front ARB and get the camber set up correctly

If your wanting to do some track days then an after market suspension set up is best - I wouldnt fit uprated springs only as I find that whilst this lowers the car it doesnt actually do much for the handling unless its matched to a decent set of shocks

When I first bought my STI funnily enough this is what I did suspension wise in order of doing them

ALK to reduce the understeer issue
Suspension set up
Rear thicker ARB and drop links
New Front strut brace - removed useless Carbon Fibre Jobbie
New uprated front ARB
Rear strut brace
Camber bolts to get to over -1.25 negative Camber
After market suspension - Exe-TC

Dont forget you need to sort out the std alloys to 17's or 18's with lower profile
You also need to get some decent brakes on the car....I'd look for second hand AP's

Toomanycars

iTrader: (1)

From what i can gather then,i will need to get some Camber Bolts? - Are these expensive / easily obtainable (plus easy to fit?)

Obviously the rear is adjustable? Is this done in a similar (easy) way as the front?

I assume that with the Front ARB the droplinks are worth doing aswell?

The wheels and tyres are already done..........they were ordered the day after i bought my car (always been a wheel *****!!),so is running 18" Inovite Redlines and Yoko Parada Spec 2's.

The brakes are on the wishlist,especially as there is a group buy for K-Sports 8 Pots on at the moment!

ratboy

iTrader: (4)

Its the geometry mate,the camber the wheels are. 2 digrees neg makes the tops of the wheels face in towards the car slightly and vice vercer at the bottom.
If you do a lot of motorway miles then yes,you will get increased inner tyre ware.
Its all a comprimes at the end of the day. A mate and member on here (Anger) got his set up at 3 digrees negitive camber and it was great when we went round the nurbergring in may,but he had trouble getting the power down at the quarter mile as a lot of the tyre wasnt in contact with the road in that sitution. It also effects the breaking grip somewhat.
I decided on 2 digrees as dont do many miles and what miles i do,do are generally the twisties.
So yeah,if you do a lot of miles,it might be a bit expensive to have this 'ultimate corner grip' set up and maybe best to go early to mid 1's negitive.
I atchieved the 2 digrees negitive from the fronts easerly but the rears will prob need camber bolts (about £20)
The difference really was night and day just getting this geo done.
It was done before any ARB's or any other handeling stuff,and it turned my scoob from a understeering nightmare into a car that was perfectly balanced and so predictable that you could make a cuppa while correcting a slide....

Fangoria

iTrader: (1)

Get some advice from Powerstation in Tewkesbury - they are good in this area

I am also of the same opinion on Camber.. set it fairly negative.. i couldnt care less about wearing my tyres though some bleeters on here will care ;-)... though -2 is better for Trackdays really unless you live in the North of England/Scotland and have the benefit of lots of country lanes!.. I live in the craphole of England - called London

I have my Nissan GTR35 set to -1.75 mostly all round which was the maximum they could set at Nissan Slough....... amazing.. first 1200 running in service is to get the set up sorted - camber, castor, toe, etc and sort out the automatic gearbox to make sure the gears are all lined up... and it was all free...
They were a little incredulous about the Camber saying I'd wear out the £600 a Tyre Dunlops in no time - I said I didnt care :-)

Yes front drop links - they cost next to nothing

Yokohame Parada 2 are what I have - great in the dry - awful in the wet - be warned!!

Toomanycars

iTrader: (1)

I'm pretty sure when i have the time (i.e - when the kids go back to school!) i will book the car in with Powerstaion and take it up there.

It will also give me time to sort the Front droplinks and ARB.

TBH at the moment........although i have only had them on 2 weeks........i haven't been all that impressed with the Yoko's even in the dry,from memory they don't feel a patch on the Toyo T1R's i had on my last classic but maybe that had already been set up differently,so i will look forward to getting my allignment done!!