eggy790

iTrader: (20)

Hi All

got a bugeye STi

on standard sti suspension with uprated sti springs (slightly stiffer)

just had the geometry done again and find the car is perfect.. cant fault the handling whatsoever on the road..

can it really get better? people have told me to go 24mm rear and 22 front..

the only time i notice the car isnt as if its stuck on rails is when taking this 30 or 25 degree bend at speed.. feels like a lot of roll or weight going over to passenger side..

thats the only weakness i can find it in..

so anyway on to the anti roll bars.. should i go 24mm rear and 22 front?

or try just a rear out first? as one of my mates has said he is thinking about running no ARB at the front.. as it suits his driving style better..

if just a rear.. should i got for a 25mm rear bar on soft setting and see how it feels from there?

this is a fast road car only, so wont be used on track..

would it be a waste to get one or will i be silly not to get one?

cheers

greatgonzo

iTrader: (1)

Its a cheap mod and will not have to redo the geo so why not
I used a rear 22mm on the middle setting on my Hawk but will be adjusting to the stiffest setting now.
Could of gone for the 24mm but didn't want to go to harsh never going on a track so couldn't see the point.

eggy790

iTrader: (20)

so guaging from your response, should i go for just a rear bar first and take it from there?

dunx

iTrader: (3)

Hi eggy,

I fitted a 22mm adjustable Whiteline rear bar as the first step, it transforms the car and even at the current price is the best value mod on my car....

On track I could get oversteer on demand, talent is another matter !

If you are super-smooth get a 24mm adjustable bar and set to the medium position ( about the same as a 22mm bar on the stiffest setting).

Then I added the ALK and a 22mm adjustable front bar, this calmed the oversteer down a bit, but increased the overall grip of the car.

Adding R888's just made it unreal.

HTH

dunx

fmp

iTrader: (7)

i run Cusco ARB's front and rear on my STI, and get on well with them, tho they do compliment the rest of the Cusco suspension setup i run.

eggy790

iTrader: (20)

thanks for the replies

i guess i'll try a rear bar first then. possibly 24mm or 25 on the soft settting to begin with

ive heard 22 is more suited to a classic? need bigger on newage?

ScoobyNoobie

Dunx,

I remember reading a good bit of your advice on setup before.

I have a 03 jap sti, thats been lowered using Tein springs, at a guess about 30mm all round.

I just did my first track day in, and it was wet, and found i had a lot of understeer in 2nd and 3rd gear corners and had to feed throttle in to "steer with the rear" as such, or the understeer was un real.

I had geo all checked, and am running 1.5 deg neg camber on the front with no toe front or rear.

The car is a weekend and now prob a occasional track car.
Whats the best way to go about reducing all the understeer?

Cheers!

dunx

iTrader: (3)

Have you changed the ARB's ? And why zero toe-in on the front ?

I've only listened to those wiser than I, who have moved on...

To be honest, even now mine can understeer in the wet, you were (maybe) just asking too much of what little grip there was...

ALK is a good addition with a front ARB, helped mine on adverse cambers, such as large lumpy roundabouts, but a touch pricey.

I would almost say wait till you can give it a try in the dry, I found that mine was very lively in the damp, never mind properly wet conditions.

HTH

dunx

ScoobyNoobie

No haven't changed the ARB's. Only thing that is different is the lowering springs.

I was recommended -1.5 deg camber and 0 toe, and assumed the garage would know better than I!
Do you run .5 or 1 deg toe in?

I see most places recommend a rear ARB first, then front to combat understeer, did you do that the other way around?

Im thinking about putting the standard springs back in, and then doing the ARB's. How big a difference do they actually make though?
I like how the car stays quite flat when cornering on the lower springs compared to the 05 UK one i had before this one. (03 Jap)

Basically wondering would the standard springs and uprated ARB still be flatter cornering than Ori ARB and Tein lowering springs....

bonesetter

iTrader: (9)

If you have lowered your car by 30mm then you will need bump steer correction as you have effectively reduced the suspension travel before hitting the stops.

Also, your car should not be understeering as you describe. Toe-ing the fronts in more may increase this effect, although they should be set with slight toe-in for 'fast-road' occasional track use.

I would say stiffening the rear will 'push' the front through more, reducing your understeer, and increase overall grip

ScoobyNoobie

Hmm....

Bit of a mine field!
I think ideally i'd like to put Ori springs back on, to make the ride a bit more compliant down our (Irish) B-roads, and then maybe Rear and possibly front ARB's to reduce understeer.

I'm hoping while the ARB's reduce roll, that the ori springs will allow the front to dive more, relative to the back, hence loading the fronts more under braking, also reducing understeer.

bonesetter

iTrader: (9)

I think dive and roll are quite similar...

I just have a miniscule amount of knowledge from an upgrade exercise I did on my newly purchased JDM which was handling terribly.

I would suggest speaking to Whiteline as they are very knowledgable, helpful and upfront.

Your car doesn't seem to far off handling like a true scoob, but don't put in money where it's not needed, and messing with stuff which you dont have to

Best of luck

dunx

iTrader: (3)

The rear bar stops the roll. allowing the front of the car to get on with the steering...

IMHO

Adding a front bar tends to reduce the oversteer caused by the rear bar, BUT also adds to the overall grip.

Again, IMHO.

dunx

53

iTrader: (41)

Classic I run 24r22f both hardest setting, awesome. Newage 25mm rear on 27mm setting If you want tail out Eggy get 22mm front on soft and 24 rear on mid/hard