Uprated anti roll bars- whats the disadvantages?
Just finished our hill climb today (I came 2nd in class- another scooby winning, but he was using cut slicks), but am still suffering from understeer and a little body roll.
The car has a WR handling pack, which seems to be uprated STI Bilstein shocks with prodrive on them, and probably some other stuff. I have also fitted the Whiteline anti lift kit on the front, and C links on the back.
Car is a 98, and Im thinking uprated ARB's will help (some corners are too tight to drift properly). Question is, whats the downside? Im guessing will be more dramatic when the car goes?
Any other suggestionss to quel understeer on tight corners?
The car has a WR handling pack, which seems to be uprated STI Bilstein shocks with prodrive on them, and probably some other stuff. I have also fitted the Whiteline anti lift kit on the front, and C links on the back.
Car is a 98, and Im thinking uprated ARB's will help (some corners are too tight to drift properly). Question is, whats the downside? Im guessing will be more dramatic when the car goes?
Any other suggestionss to quel understeer on tight corners?
Proper geometry setup would help too, as would ARB's as you mention, particularly on the rear. I've not used mine for competition, but the difference on the road was noticeable. Either go for 22mm on the rear and leave the front standard, or 22mm front and 24mm rear, although this could be a bit much if you use it as a standard road car. Get adjustable ones if you can, means you can easily tweak it a bit yourself.
And of course, decent tyres!
And of course, decent tyres!
Scooby Senior
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From: Slowly rebuilding the kit of bits into a car...
Rear bar vastly improved turn-in on my New-Age STI, best value mod on the car.
Fully stiff was a bit "drift spec", but fine once I added a front bar to make the front end work harder.
HTH
dunx
Fully stiff was a bit "drift spec", but fine once I added a front bar to make the front end work harder.
HTH
dunx
Have you got rear subframe lock bolts in, as you approach a setup that is neutral it makes the rear much more responsive making it easier to control a looser back end. Best £20-25 you'll spend!
Simon
Simon
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After all that, I have had a chat with David at API, and having talked through my setup, going to try Tein EDFC's first.
He is pretty sure that will give me the right balance for the comps, and some road use.
I have some time now, as next event is next year, so can corner weight the car etc and spend some time getting it right.
He is pretty sure that will give me the right balance for the comps, and some road use.
I have some time now, as next event is next year, so can corner weight the car etc and spend some time getting it right.
I've just fitted whiteline ALK,Rear 24mm ARB,BC Coilovers,front strut brace,Front and Rear Drop Links.Geo set not done yet not until i get front ARB and WHITELINE UPRATED REAR ANTI-ROLL BAR BRACKEt. I still find understeer at the moment and the steering not to sharp..Uprated WHITELINE HEAVY DUTY STEERING RACK MOUNTS hopefully see to that..not pushed the car hard enough to get a picture of what it's doing but testing is on going
I still have the original shocks which the previous owner passed on with the car and I keep thinking of putting them back on then selling the Tein's but I think they were changed because the near side rear shock started to knock and as the car was out of warranty the previous owner got the Teins.
So I would have to either get another pair of standard rears or try the DIY fix for the rear shock, but it's all a bit of hassle really so i'm also thinking of selling the scoob to get something more comfy rather than 'spoil' the scoob setup.
So I would have to either get another pair of standard rears or try the DIY fix for the rear shock, but it's all a bit of hassle really so i'm also thinking of selling the scoob to get something more comfy rather than 'spoil' the scoob setup.
Last edited by stiscooby; Sep 3, 2009 at 10:34 PM.
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