speedking

MY02 WRX

Fitting new shock absorbers.

In the maintenance manual it says that a special socket is required to undo the top nut of the rear suspension unit. Is it really necessary, or will a combination of 'normal' tools be able to do the job?

Apart from the new shock absorbers, are there any other parts that should be replaced? Can you re-use the bottom locknuts?

Don't want to take the suspension off the car then find out that I haven't got an essential tool / part.

his-n-her-scoobs

iTrader: (5)

I dont know if the bugeye is the same but on a UK MY97 I used a swan neck ring spanner and an allen key. Easy to get at any time so check your tools for fit now, before you start the job.

One tip, undo the nut one turn BEFORE jacking the car.

Special tool required, coil spring compressors.

No other component parts required, the rubbers and boots on these cars are unusually resilient. But you will need brake fluid as the brake pipes pass THRU the brackets on the shocks.

Technically the lock nuts are not to be re-used, but just about every garage I know will happily re-use.

About half an hour per side plus the bleed. Good luck

speedking

Thought I had to take the seats out before accessing the nut?

"About half an hour per side plus the bleed." So about three hours then

Thanks for the tips.

speedking

Well one hour per side is wildly optimistic

First weekend Seats out, wheel off, so far so good. The top three nuts are concealed below trim and the inertia reel for the seatbelts. A different tool required for each one. A twelfth of a turn at a time to get the nuts up the surplus inch of thread. Then can't get the bottom strut mounting bolts undone. Offside is the strut thats leaking, so concentrating on that one. Can't get to the nuts due to the driveshaft, so must undo the bolt head. Long breaker bar and jumping up and down eventually free the bolt. Complex arrangement of jacks required to position the strut and hub so that the bolts are not under pressure and can be removed.

Move to nearside. Because the bolts are handed the breaker bar needs to be lifted rather than pushed down. Can't lift it. Try jacking and lift the whole car. Give up. One day spent, now have one old oil filled shock, and one new gas-filled shock. Should make for interesting handling

Garage will not fit the other new shock, due to warranty issues, but they will loosen off the suspension bolts, but can't fit me in until Thursday. Finally on the following Saturday I tackle the nearside shock and successfully complete the job.

Despite knackering a torque wrench, its still miles cheaper than dealer prices, but has cost me two Saturdays.

his-n-her-scoobs

iTrader: (5)

Well done chap, you'll get there in the end.

Was showing my lad how to do it, which slowed me down somewhat

By the way the original shox are gas filled. But feel you have a misconception here. All shox are hydraulic (oil filled). Gas charged shox have a "bag" of pressureised gas sat on the oil to pre-pressurise so the shox are at their optimum straight away, and prevent oil frothing under load. Bit of a simplistic explanation.

speedking

Thanks for that.

Job is complete now

Regards my original question, did I mention the bit about using mole grips on a socket in conjunction with an allen key to get the top nut undone and done up again? Even with the correct socket I don't see how it can be torqued up to a specific value And the original shocks had 17mm nuts, the new ones 19mm

... and breathe.

his-n-her-scoobs

iTrader: (5)

That's were I use the swan neck ring spanner.

Torque load the nut with the weight back on the ground and the nut already "nipped". It will torque, trust me

My replacement shocks also went from 17 to 19mm IIRC

The rookie

iTrader: (1)

Thats were a wagon or Foz makes life easy, no problem accesing the rear, I can remove, strip rebuild and refit both rears in 45 minutes.

Simon