Front Suspension Knock / noise
#1
Front Suspension Knock / noise
Hi Hope some one can help.
I have a new age WRX which has developed a slight knock from the front left (near side) wheel.
Could this be a worn strut or strut mount?
What is the best way to check out this problem?
If it is the strut mount where can these be obtained from outher than Subaru direct?
Hope someone can help
I have a new age WRX which has developed a slight knock from the front left (near side) wheel.
Could this be a worn strut or strut mount?
What is the best way to check out this problem?
If it is the strut mount where can these be obtained from outher than Subaru direct?
Hope someone can help
#2
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When does the knock occur, without more information it could be a number things but CV joint is what springs to mind.
If it is the CV joint it is more apparent at low speed when turning.
If it is the CV joint it is more apparent at low speed when turning.
#3
The noise seams to be at lower speeds and when turning but only when going over rough or bumpy roads.
Could it be the top strut mount because the handling is still good on the car?
Could it be the top strut mount because the handling is still good on the car?
#4
how about worn droplinks? i relaced my rear ARB+droplinks with Whiteline items and the clunking knock from the back has been cured as far as i can tell. Would be a good excuse to uprate both ARBs and droplinks allround if you so wish...
Ash
ps mine made the clunking noise at low speed over bumpy ground too
Ash
ps mine made the clunking noise at low speed over bumpy ground too
Last edited by AshMurc; 30 May 2008 at 12:30 PM. Reason: ps...
#5
I have just fitted whiteline rear drop links and what a differance to the cars feel. Vast improvement. Should I have changed the ARB as well? I have fitted front links about 1000 miles ago but these were orignals from subaru. Would you think it better to get whiteline for the front also. If so which 1's. I have seen a solid type and a wire type. Which are best.
#6
how about worn droplinks? i relaced my rear ARB+droplinks with Whiteline items and the clunking knock from the back has been cured as far as i can tell. Would be a good excuse to uprate both ARBs and droplinks allround if you so wish...
Ash
ps mine made the clunking noise at low speed over bumpy ground too
Ash
ps mine made the clunking noise at low speed over bumpy ground too
#7
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Everything else is sound as I have solid, adjustable, top mounts, new springs, shocks, arb, drop links and strut brace
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#9
yep i think thats very possible too nixxon. Good thought.
Scar70, i drive a '97 JDW WRX wagon. Yes i would certainly change the ARBs too. I just had a pretty fast drive back from my parents-- cornering really hard, and deffinately feel front ARB+droplinks should be done next as the front now needs tightening up a bit... but yes, a massive improvement, can really launch the car into corners. I went for the steel droplinks as i'm on a budget!! According to Dave at Demon Tweeks the alloy ones are bit stiffer and can handle harder ARBs a bit better. But steelies are still fine and massive improvement. I will be running 22mm ARBs front and rear. If i had gone for 24mm, then the alloy links may have been a better option in the long run.
but after driving up my parents dirt track i can deffinately say the clunking is no more
Scar70, i drive a '97 JDW WRX wagon. Yes i would certainly change the ARBs too. I just had a pretty fast drive back from my parents-- cornering really hard, and deffinately feel front ARB+droplinks should be done next as the front now needs tightening up a bit... but yes, a massive improvement, can really launch the car into corners. I went for the steel droplinks as i'm on a budget!! According to Dave at Demon Tweeks the alloy ones are bit stiffer and can handle harder ARBs a bit better. But steelies are still fine and massive improvement. I will be running 22mm ARBs front and rear. If i had gone for 24mm, then the alloy links may have been a better option in the long run.
but after driving up my parents dirt track i can deffinately say the clunking is no more
#10
Are these easy to remove and what should I be watching out for?
#11
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Strut assembly is easy to remove, 3 bolts on top and 2 at the bottom.
The top bolt at the bottom is a camber bolt, make sure you put some tippex or similar to get it realigned when you put it back together unless you plan to get the alignment re-done afterwards.
When dismantling the strut, the tophat is eccentric which needs a little patience in lining up when re-assembling. Also, I split the allen head at the top of one of my struts when taking it apart as it was not that strong, not a problem as they where going in the bin, but if you are re-using the same bits, take care.
The top bolt at the bottom is a camber bolt, make sure you put some tippex or similar to get it realigned when you put it back together unless you plan to get the alignment re-done afterwards.
When dismantling the strut, the tophat is eccentric which needs a little patience in lining up when re-assembling. Also, I split the allen head at the top of one of my struts when taking it apart as it was not that strong, not a problem as they where going in the bin, but if you are re-using the same bits, take care.
#12
thanks everone for your thoughts and help.
I will be removing the strut assembly and will let you know what i find
I think i will also get solid front drop links but which one should i go for the wire or solid type? Any advise appreciated
I will be removing the strut assembly and will let you know what i find
I think i will also get solid front drop links but which one should i go for the wire or solid type? Any advise appreciated
#13
Strut assembly is easy to remove, 3 bolts on top and 2 at the bottom.
The top bolt at the bottom is a camber bolt, make sure you put some tippex or similar to get it realigned when you put it back together unless you plan to get the alignment re-done afterwards.
When dismantling the strut, the tophat is eccentric which needs a little patience in lining up when re-assembling. Also, I split the allen head at the top of one of my struts when taking it apart as it was not that strong, not a problem as they where going in the bin, but if you are re-using the same bits, take care.
The top bolt at the bottom is a camber bolt, make sure you put some tippex or similar to get it realigned when you put it back together unless you plan to get the alignment re-done afterwards.
When dismantling the strut, the tophat is eccentric which needs a little patience in lining up when re-assembling. Also, I split the allen head at the top of one of my struts when taking it apart as it was not that strong, not a problem as they where going in the bin, but if you are re-using the same bits, take care.
#15
Is it only whiteline who suppy these top mounts. They dont have to be adjustable I only use my scooby on the road not track?
#16
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All the aftermarket one's I have seen are adjustable, I am sure there are probably cheaper ones but I like whiteline stuff.
Try these for OE stuff though - SUBARU IMPREZA TURBO PARTS Front Strut Top - Impreza 93-05 Impreza GC8 GF8 1993-2005 : £59.00 : Subaru Impreza Turbo Parts, Tuning, Spares & Accessories : Suspension - Misc -
Try these for OE stuff though - SUBARU IMPREZA TURBO PARTS Front Strut Top - Impreza 93-05 Impreza GC8 GF8 1993-2005 : £59.00 : Subaru Impreza Turbo Parts, Tuning, Spares & Accessories : Suspension - Misc -
#17
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