chocolate_o_brian

iTrader: (22)

i was expecting it eventually as the car has 125k miles, even though the engine is only 55k old.
anyways what makes me think its going is the following...

setting off it squeeks like mad. any sort of blimp in the road and it squeeks like mad. a high pitch squeek too, like something is jiffling or rubbing. this is coming particularly from the rear end.

also when i go to brake some times i hear a tapping noise from the nearside rear wheel. i dunno if this is a sticking caliper or the suspension moving in ways it shouldnt.

either way im thinking its time for replacements. but what actually gets replaced when you change suspension, as before all i was gonna do was get some eibachs to lower it and stiffen up corners etc.

i assume you need the springs, shocks, but the bits at the top? help me im clueless, suspension being something ive never replaced. im not looking to go o.t.t. either, but something a little uprated to standard suspension would be nice.

ideas and suggestions... chances are scoobybits will fit everything so just wanna get some good kit.

andy

timmccr

If you want to really replace anything thats capable of wearing...

1) struts (valving becomes less effective)
2) springs (can sag/snap)
3) spring rubber seats (can split/crack/become brittle etc)
4) top mounts (may soften with age)
5) anti-roll bar bush (can split if old and brittle)
6) anti-roll bar mounts (original steel items can corrode)
7) droplinks (plastic OEM ones have rubber bushes that can split etc)
8) boot and bottom out bumper (can aged and snap)
9) bushes... inner lateral link, outer lateral link, front of trailing arm, rear of trailing arm (all wear/soften with age, introducing flex/play thats unwanted)

Thats the basics of the wearable parts. Other bits (like bolts, spring caps, ARB itself (assuming it hasnt corroded completely through)) should be fine.

If you really want to tighen the car up, replace all the bushes with poly items. It'll introduce more NVH and some may say its a bit OTT for our less than perfect roads, others seem to be enjoying the benefits (911/Graham for instance).

Changing the shocks and springs for new will also tighten things up. Original spec KYB Excel-G shocks can be had for approx £50 a corner, or approx £80 for KYB AGX shocks (basic adjustable shocks).

As for the tapping noise, have you checked the wheel bearings? They might need some attention, or they might be fine.

Sadly due to our roads, UK car suspension gets a severe hammering. A friend of mine visited a geometry specialist recently (not with an Impreza) - he said most cars will loose some of their geometry settings within 7 weeks due to smashing into potholes, bumps, ruts, speed bumps etc. Makes you wonder why we pay so much road-tax!

chocolate_o_brian

iTrader: (22)

some good pointers there, appreciate it. thing is, since buying my scoob in december last year, its been to scoobybits in rotherham for a service, front discs and pads, rear discs and pads, exhaust, and jason or chris havent mentioned anything about the suspension components or the wheel bearings.

i suppose it may be an idea to go back and ask one of them to accompany me in the car to here the noise for themselves.

my original plan was for some eibach lowering springs accompanied my whiteline droplinks and arbs front/rear, but it seems i may have a few wear and tear items to possibly replace. best start saving or buy ear plugs.

andy

timmccr

It may be that only one or two parts are worn, but they're causing noise. Get it somewhere knowledgeable and they'll be able to tell you whats fine and whats knackered.

I fitted a 22mm rear ARB and steel front droplinks last night (already had steel rear drop links). The difference is incredible! Makes my original set up feel like a wet noodle.

I'm also having Eibach springs, brand new shocks, STi top mounts and anti-lift kit fitted by Powerstation next week, so a lot of my suspension parts will be brand new. While I'm there, I'll ask what parts they commonly find worn on classics.

chocolate_o_brian

iTrader: (22)

would appreciate the feedback you get on that fella. my cars done 125k in 7/8 years you see, so i expected some of this to happen eventually.

CamoMo

Hey Timmccr,

Any update to your post from last month...?? Any news with you replacements...and news from PowerStation about commonly worn parts for rear, rattling, knocking shocks, etc.

chocolate_o_brian

iTrader: (22)

with regards to my original problem, it went as soon as i had a little bump on the rear bumper. must have been a loose clip on the underside squeeking or something, as the bumper was pushed in a little and it stopped. the only noises i get now are the exhaust tapping the underside of the car, and a tappety rear brake on the nearside

dont get that one, maybe need cleaning out. as for the exhaust... any suggestions.+

911

Take a look at the proximity of the center pipe to the propshaft centre bearing housing.
Static, there may be a lot of room but when accellerating/slowing down the torque reaction twists the engine/box and moves the exhaust with it very close to the siad bearing mount.

If it is doing this, then there might be a shiney mark there.

chocolate_o_brian

iTrader: (22)

something to ponder. il tell you when its most noticeable... when the windowns are down driving down a bumpy street. you can here the tapping quite clearly, and its all from around the rear nearside, under the car so to speak.

911

Then the pipe will be very close to the rear sub frame where the CV goes into the rear diff.
Many fitters dent the pipes there for clearence, especially if a 3'' system is on the car.
Graham.