FAO of 911, Powerstation and any other suspension guru's
29 December 2006, 03:18 PM
#1
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FAO of 911, Powerstation and any other suspension guru's
I have an MY00 uk turbo, i have got the following parts to be fitted in the next few weeks then an alignment by Powerstation:
Tein Super Street Coilovers with Topmounts (will be fitting EDFC soon aswell)
Whiteline 22mm Rear Adj ARB
Whiteline Droplinks
Would you recommend anything else to go wtih this e.g. Rear Camber Bolts???
I read somewhere it is possible to turn the top mounts to give adjustable Castor instead of Camber. Is this true? Can it be done with the Teins? Is it worth doing and having the Camber just adjusted on the bolts at the bottom of the struts??
BTW the car is used for road use and might try odd track day.
Tein Super Street Coilovers with Topmounts (will be fitting EDFC soon aswell)
Whiteline 22mm Rear Adj ARB
Whiteline Droplinks
Would you recommend anything else to go wtih this e.g. Rear Camber Bolts???
I read somewhere it is possible to turn the top mounts to give adjustable Castor instead of Camber. Is this true? Can it be done with the Teins? Is it worth doing and having the Camber just adjusted on the bolts at the bottom of the struts??
BTW the car is used for road use and might try odd track day.
29 December 2006, 08:31 PM
#3
The major issue is understeer and getting rid of it or at least minimising it.
It is possible that the top mounts can be fitted:
Rt hand side to the left, Left hand side to the right.
This does work with Cusco designs.
With this you enhance the CASTER in the front which will significantly reduce understeer.
You will still have some CAMBER adjustment, just less.
This is where camber bolts in each corner will be worthwhile.
If you can revers the handing of the tops then you might be able to miss-off the ALK, but as Doug correctly suggests the ALK will further enhance the geometry.
I have both on my hill climber.
Back to those coilovers:
You must get PS to check the spring rates. Jap systems are very hard and highly damped leading to a very poor ride on the road.
Curtis/Andy are fully able to sort it for you.
The ALK comes with poly bushes, so it could be a good move to fit poly bushes in the front mounts of the lower wishbones, but this is a time consuming job = $$$.
Ask first.
At the rear get PS to fit the rear diff subframe lock kit; 2 x 12 mm bolts with cone locking to the shell.
Of course the alignment is a major part to a chassis' effectivness, and I have huge faith in Curtis' judgment. (I'm sure Andy is up there too).
Trust you have the bare essentials such as good wear-free balljoints and decent tyres.
Hope that helps.
There is a lot more you can do but these essential mods are...ummm...essential!
Let us know the results!
Graham
It is possible that the top mounts can be fitted:
Rt hand side to the left, Left hand side to the right.
This does work with Cusco designs.
With this you enhance the CASTER in the front which will significantly reduce understeer.
You will still have some CAMBER adjustment, just less.
This is where camber bolts in each corner will be worthwhile.
If you can revers the handing of the tops then you might be able to miss-off the ALK, but as Doug correctly suggests the ALK will further enhance the geometry.
I have both on my hill climber.
Back to those coilovers:
You must get PS to check the spring rates. Jap systems are very hard and highly damped leading to a very poor ride on the road.
Curtis/Andy are fully able to sort it for you.
The ALK comes with poly bushes, so it could be a good move to fit poly bushes in the front mounts of the lower wishbones, but this is a time consuming job = $$$.
Ask first.
At the rear get PS to fit the rear diff subframe lock kit; 2 x 12 mm bolts with cone locking to the shell.
Of course the alignment is a major part to a chassis' effectivness, and I have huge faith in Curtis' judgment. (I'm sure Andy is up there too).
Trust you have the bare essentials such as good wear-free balljoints and decent tyres.
Hope that helps.
There is a lot more you can do but these essential mods are...ummm...essential!
Let us know the results!
Graham
Last edited by 911; 29 December 2006 at 08:35 PM.
30 December 2006, 01:24 PM
#4
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Decent tyres - currently about half worn Toyo T1-S, will probably be replace with Goodyear F1's in the summer.
Wear-free ball joints - don't no, hope so nothing was picked up on service or mot.
I think the spring rates are relativily low on the Super Street kits (for jap kits), being made for road use. I have driven an M plate wrx with the same kit on it before ordering mine, and it wasn't harsh at all, probably similar to STI suspension (unless set to very hard damping). I have also driven one with Cusco coilovers and found them way to hard for road use even on the softest damping settings.
Will ask about the rear diff lock kit.
Was hoping that reversing the top mounts would mean i wouldn't need an ALK as this basically adds 0.5deg of Castor.
Still a bit confused about exactly what to do with the top mounts though.
Will try and post some pics of them up later so you can have a look at them and see if it is possible/worth doing.
Wear-free ball joints - don't no, hope so nothing was picked up on service or mot.
I think the spring rates are relativily low on the Super Street kits (for jap kits), being made for road use. I have driven an M plate wrx with the same kit on it before ordering mine, and it wasn't harsh at all, probably similar to STI suspension (unless set to very hard damping). I have also driven one with Cusco coilovers and found them way to hard for road use even on the softest damping settings.
Will ask about the rear diff lock kit.
Was hoping that reversing the top mounts would mean i wouldn't need an ALK as this basically adds 0.5deg of Castor.
Still a bit confused about exactly what to do with the top mounts though.
Will try and post some pics of them up later so you can have a look at them and see if it is possible/worth doing.
30 December 2006, 06:37 PM
#5
If you fit the top mounts and CAN 'reverse' them I think you will gain far more than 0.5 deg posative caster.
My Noltec and now AST mounts nearly added double over stock!
Whiteline have just introduced some very nice top mounts.
If you fit them and get the gain with caster, then IMHO you can forget the ALK. Save some £££ and spend it on the rear of the car!
There are some good mods to do at the rear that will help in several conditions.(not expensive either)
Graham
My Noltec and now AST mounts nearly added double over stock!
Whiteline have just introduced some very nice top mounts.
If you fit them and get the gain with caster, then IMHO you can forget the ALK. Save some £££ and spend it on the rear of the car!
There are some good mods to do at the rear that will help in several conditions.(not expensive either)
Graham
30 December 2006, 06:38 PM
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Checked the Tein website and the spring rates are:
224 lbs/in Front which by my calculations = 39.2 N/mm
168 lbs/in Rear which by my calculations = 29.4 N/mm
So basically - 40 front and 30 Rear which i beleive is what Powerstation recommend for road use on the AST's.
224 lbs/in Front which by my calculations = 39.2 N/mm
168 lbs/in Rear which by my calculations = 29.4 N/mm
So basically - 40 front and 30 Rear which i beleive is what Powerstation recommend for road use on the AST's.
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30 December 2006, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by turboDean
Decent tyres - currently about half worn Toyo T1-S, will probably be replace with Goodyear F1's in the summer.
Wear-free ball joints - don't no, hope so nothing was picked up on service or mot.
I think the spring rates are relativily low on the Super Street kits (for jap kits), being made for road use. I have driven an M plate wrx with the same kit on it before ordering mine, and it wasn't harsh at all, probably similar to STI suspension (unless set to very hard damping). I have also driven one with Cusco coilovers and found them way to hard for road use even on the softest damping settings.
Will ask about the rear diff lock kit.
Was hoping that reversing the top mounts would mean i wouldn't need an ALK as this basically adds 0.5deg of Castor.
Still a bit confused about exactly what to do with the top mounts though.
Will try and post some pics of them up later so you can have a look at them and see if it is possible/worth doing.
Wear-free ball joints - don't no, hope so nothing was picked up on service or mot.
I think the spring rates are relativily low on the Super Street kits (for jap kits), being made for road use. I have driven an M plate wrx with the same kit on it before ordering mine, and it wasn't harsh at all, probably similar to STI suspension (unless set to very hard damping). I have also driven one with Cusco coilovers and found them way to hard for road use even on the softest damping settings.
Will ask about the rear diff lock kit.
Was hoping that reversing the top mounts would mean i wouldn't need an ALK as this basically adds 0.5deg of Castor.
Still a bit confused about exactly what to do with the top mounts though.
Will try and post some pics of them up later so you can have a look at them and see if it is possible/worth doing.
i can't recommend ditching the T1-S's enough
30 December 2006, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by pippyrips
Dean,
i can't recommend ditching the T1-S's enough
i can't recommend ditching the T1-S's enough
Also considering Verderstein Ultrac's next, price depending, also gonna go for 225/35/18 instead of 215/35/18.
30 December 2006, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by turboDean
I found them ok, but won't be using them again as my mate can't get very good deals with Toyo but can with Goodyear
Also considering Verderstein Ultrac's next, price depending, also gonna go for 225/35/18 instead of 215/35/18.
Also considering Verderstein Ultrac's next, price depending, also gonna go for 225/35/18 instead of 215/35/18.
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