ALK ?
17 October 2006, 07:14 PM
#1
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ALK ?
Hi,
when fitting the whiteline ALk kit is the only setting affected the toe or does it affect camber aswell ?
Sorry meant to say what needs re setting after the fitting of the ALK.
many thanks
when fitting the whiteline ALk kit is the only setting affected the toe or does it affect camber aswell ?
Sorry meant to say what needs re setting after the fitting of the ALK.
many thanks
Last edited by shepster; 17 October 2006 at 07:51 PM.
17 October 2006, 08:26 PM
#2
Fitting the 'kit' will change almost everything if you are unlucky.
The ALK changes to a small degree the castor in the suspension but will affect the toe far more than the camber.
I would suggest you have the car laser aligned afterwards by someone who knows what they are about.
Graham
The ALK changes to a small degree the castor in the suspension but will affect the toe far more than the camber.
I would suggest you have the car laser aligned afterwards by someone who knows what they are about.
Graham
24 October 2006, 05:34 PM
#5
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Ok now fitted and alligned again and i have to say the car is the best its ever been, way less understeer almost feels like its rwd now. cant believe the difference should of fitted it sooner.
Other mods are eibach springs, rear drop links, front and rear 22mm roll bars.
Other mods are eibach springs, rear drop links, front and rear 22mm roll bars.
24 October 2006, 09:53 PM
#6
Good move.
There are a stack of other mods to do which will yield even better results!
You are starting on a very enjoyable series of mods on the car
They end up a bit like this:
DropShots Day
Graham
There are a stack of other mods to do which will yield even better results!
You are starting on a very enjoyable series of mods on the car
They end up a bit like this:
DropShots Day
Graham
Trending Topics
26 October 2006, 06:54 AM
#8
There are set stages you can go through to the car which will involve more and more money, and compromise the road manners.
If the car is just for the road, a daily driver, wife/kids etc:
22mm rear bar/ALK/good stock Sti suspension/good alignment.
Next more aggressive stage:
Good coilovers (means suitable to UK roads)/Noltec top mounts/rear camber bolts/22mm bars/good alignment with strong negative camber set-up
Next stage: Track/road use...maybe no wife kids!
As above; add
Solid bushes/diff lock and subframe lock in rear/rack bushing/extended rear track arms/lower front brace, 22 front/24mm rear bars/cut slick tyres/agressive alignment (at the cost of tyre wear)
Getting sexy:
Add AST 3 way adjustable coil-overs and spend good time tuning all 3 damping parameters.
I am at the sexy stage now and feel I have done enough!
There is NO comparison betwen the stock Sti and the car as it stands.
B Roads are quite exciting to drive fast but doable, A roads are ballistic, motorways serene, but on the track fully committed just sublime.
In the vid clip the car enters flat out in 3rd at 7500 rpm and the track was not dry.(hence the wheel spin/lack of grip). The car has about 380bhp.
Graham
You did ask!
If the car is just for the road, a daily driver, wife/kids etc:
22mm rear bar/ALK/good stock Sti suspension/good alignment.
Next more aggressive stage:
Good coilovers (means suitable to UK roads)/Noltec top mounts/rear camber bolts/22mm bars/good alignment with strong negative camber set-up
Next stage: Track/road use...maybe no wife kids!
As above; add
Solid bushes/diff lock and subframe lock in rear/rack bushing/extended rear track arms/lower front brace, 22 front/24mm rear bars/cut slick tyres/agressive alignment (at the cost of tyre wear)
Getting sexy:
Add AST 3 way adjustable coil-overs and spend good time tuning all 3 damping parameters.
I am at the sexy stage now and feel I have done enough!
There is NO comparison betwen the stock Sti and the car as it stands.
B Roads are quite exciting to drive fast but doable, A roads are ballistic, motorways serene, but on the track fully committed just sublime.
In the vid clip the car enters flat out in 3rd at 7500 rpm and the track was not dry.(hence the wheel spin/lack of grip). The car has about 380bhp.
Graham
You did ask!
Last edited by 911; 26 October 2006 at 06:57 AM.
26 October 2006, 05:00 PM
#9
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Cheers Graham for the input,I have standard WRX shocks with eibach springs although i have front and rear camber bolts fitted already set tp 1.5 neg front and rear and 1mm toe front and rear. Do you think i could get more neg camber up front.
Also the whitline rack bushes, do they make much of a diierence to handling and ride/feedback ?
regards
James
Also the whitline rack bushes, do they make much of a diierence to handling and ride/feedback ?
regards
James
26 October 2006, 05:56 PM
#10
You are in a difficult position with the car!
Adding castor to the front end will reap huge dividends, but you need aftermarket top mounts to acheive it, especially the Noltec units.
Bad news is you need shorter springs in the front to allow for the space taken by the large top bushes in the Noltecs.
Adding huge castor will really change the cornering of the car.
Addintional neg camber will make accelleration and more importantly braking more 'unstable' due to contact patch of the tyre becoming minimised with the suspension highly deflected by the dynamics of the car.
Not good with an emergency stop in hand!
As to the rack bushes, a bit pointless if the rest of the bushes are the stock rubber bits as it all squirms about too much.
If i were you I would fit (easy job) the rear subframe bushes and locking kit from Whiteline. That will 'grip' the rear axle system well and get that in controll. Cheap too!
You are just about ready to get agressive with the chassis...
Adding castor to the front end will reap huge dividends, but you need aftermarket top mounts to acheive it, especially the Noltec units.
Bad news is you need shorter springs in the front to allow for the space taken by the large top bushes in the Noltecs.
Adding huge castor will really change the cornering of the car.
Addintional neg camber will make accelleration and more importantly braking more 'unstable' due to contact patch of the tyre becoming minimised with the suspension highly deflected by the dynamics of the car.
Not good with an emergency stop in hand!
As to the rack bushes, a bit pointless if the rest of the bushes are the stock rubber bits as it all squirms about too much.
If i were you I would fit (easy job) the rear subframe bushes and locking kit from Whiteline. That will 'grip' the rear axle system well and get that in controll. Cheap too!
You are just about ready to get agressive with the chassis...
Last edited by 911; 26 October 2006 at 05:58 PM.
26 October 2006, 06:36 PM
#11
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hmm dam cars, is it easy to get hold of shorter eibach springs or does it require a whole new set of something else? Sorry for all the questions but there is no one over here to ask realy.
Mabe best left as is untill i go for coilovers later next year ?
Mabe best left as is untill i go for coilovers later next year ?
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