RB5_245

I'm trying to find the right balance for my car, so far it's fairly spot on up above 40 mph but low speed understeer is annoying me.

I've kept std 99springs and dampers this far to try and keep it looking as std as possible, I don't want to lower it if avoidable.

So far.

22mm arbs front and back
solid d/links front and back
noltec top mounts front and back track version set at max setting
anti-lift kit
front and rear upper strut braces

I find once up to speeds 60mph and up it's pretty well balanced, takes staying on the brakes late or flicking it in a bit aggressively will set it in to a nice 4wd drift and will pull into understeer on the throttle.

However at low speeds it takes a lot of aggression and will push into understeer unless a healthy dose of right foot is applied.

I was thinking if it would be possible to cure this with better diffs rather that change the springs and dampers? possibly bumpsteer removed and front quailfe atb?

Maybe change to eibachs/bilsteins rather than go all the way over to coilovers?

DaveW

What geometry settings are you running?

It might be you need to reduce the amount of front camber to gain grip at lower speeds.

ozzy

Have you tried putting the OE front ARB back on?

To be honest Dave, even my P1 suspension isn't fantastic .... it's good, but not what I was expecting or wanting.

I still find my car feels floaty rather than very planted. Maybe that's just my cheap Hankooks though.

RB5_245

I'll try that, I thought increased camber was going to be better... might get a bit dicey though doing geometry by eye

I find the car quite floaty too, I put it down to sidewall flex and std bushes?

Don't want to change the arbs really as it seems to work well once going at a decent speed. Did you refit your front std one or leave it at 22mm?

New_scooby_04

iTrader: (4)

Apart from change the springs to Eibachs ( I would avoid coilovers, chances are they'll kill the ride) and get the geometry set more aggressively don't know that there is much more you can "reasonably" do mate. What tyres are you running?

Ns04

RB5_245

Geometry is way over agressive for a normal road car, max camber and caster on track noltecs plus anti-lift kit.

I suppose it could maybe do with a touch more toe out, but i can't do that myself.

I think you're right, eibachs will probably be the next thing to go for.

I have P-Zero Assymetricos... Michelin pilot sport cups next?

Mo

Reducing the static camber would be a good starting point but without the use of correct measuring equipment you're fighting a losing battle.

RB5_245

I suppose if I use marks I can take it off in equal amounts each side then test until... I find a good balance/crash/loose my license/give up.

911

When you change the camber settings the track/toe will change to a limited but influential degree.(no punn intended)
When you change the castor (if you have Noltecs etc) then the toe change is almost insignificant. Some adjustable top mounts will change the camber as well as the castor so beware.

I have spent ages getting the balance right on my Hill climb car, and I feel I have just about got there after 3 years! (race/road car remember)

Graham.

DaveW

Get the geometry done by someone who has the equipment and knows what they are doing with it (ASP, TSL, Powerstation to name a few). It will save a lot of time and possibly a set of tyres.

Also, I see your running the same size ARB front and rear. I found that induced understeer, so I reverted to the standard front ARB with uprated bushes. So that could be worth a try and (so long as you still have the old one) won't cost you anything.

A change to Eibach springs could help as these are slightly harder springs and don't lower the car very much (10-20mm), they also work well with MY99 dampers. Your Noltecs will have raised the car slightly anyway, so it should still end up looking standard.

My spec just for reference: STI6 Type R dampers+springs, Noltec front/STI rear top mounts, 18mm front ARB, 22mm adj rear ARB, drop links, rear camber bolts.

1 degree 30 minutes front/rear camber each side
5 minutes front toe in per side
1 minutes rear toe in per side
Max static front castor

Dave.

RB5_245

See what you're saying there. Have no access for the time being to anywhere that can do geometry for me so have to make do with the best I can.

It gets light at the back under braking at high speed. Not exessively so, but wouldnt like to make it worse. So a reduction in front camber would help quell understeer at low speeds, but should also increase it at high speeds/heavy compression? Which in turn could be helped by softening the front arb.

Think I'm on the right track? I'll give it a shot, unfortunately there is no where near here to test out the high speed stuff

DuncanG

RB5 you cant do an alignment by eye. It sounds like you are not even checking toe when you alter the camber and castor. At a push you can roughly set toe with nothing more than a tape measure.

However it is possible for you to do quite an acceptable alignment with very basic tools. Do some searching on 'Stringing'. Mostly I use my trusty ADA camber and toe gauges with occasional checking on a laser rig. These gauges are little more than protractors and string, but when used with care give a reliable result.

If you are trying a diy alignment with plumb-bobs and/or spirit levels beware the slope of the floor when measuring camber. Do it one way then rotate the car 180deg and re-measure - there will likely be an error caused by the floor running off to one side. Once known you can compensate easily for it. When adjusting toe roll the car back and forth after adjusting to remove any preload.