Camber Adjustment
#1
Could anyone one tell me how the camber is adjusted on the front wheels... (just wondering, i am not going to touch it)
It is booked in for a geometry check because of excessive understeer and pulling to the left. Also because the drivers wheel looks like it has excessive positive camber and reading other posts I believe it should have some negative camber dialed in depending on what setting were last used.
It is booked in for a geometry check because of excessive understeer and pulling to the left. Also because the drivers wheel looks like it has excessive positive camber and reading other posts I believe it should have some negative camber dialed in depending on what setting were last used.
#3
Just had MY98 in for traking change to prodrive setting. But the garage said the front camber could only be adjusted to -0.3° on the left and -0.9° on the drivers side. Instead of -1.25° ,
So they adjusted it to -0.3° both sides.
Why can't -1.25° be reached? Is something worn?
All the suspension bushes checked out ok.
So they adjusted it to -0.3° both sides.
Why can't -1.25° be reached? Is something worn?
All the suspension bushes checked out ok.
#4
Hi Speedster,
This is a pretty common problem. Of the top holes at the bottom of the strut, you can get the top hole drilled to give you more camber adjustment. This should allow you up to about -2.5. The drilling simply provides a little more margin for adjustment. It means that you can go from standard to a much more acceptable setting and back again should you wish :-) It also has the benefit of allowing you to change the camber whenever you want by simply adjusting the bolt without affecting toe settings.
The rear will probably also be uneven as well. You can gain adjustment on this by fitting some camber asjustment bolts.
If you want a great handling car, go for
Front:
-2 degrees, 0mm toe.
Rear
-1.5 degrees, 2mm total toe OUT (not in).
Corners much much better and understeer is very much reduced. Bloody marvellous!
David
This is a pretty common problem. Of the top holes at the bottom of the strut, you can get the top hole drilled to give you more camber adjustment. This should allow you up to about -2.5. The drilling simply provides a little more margin for adjustment. It means that you can go from standard to a much more acceptable setting and back again should you wish :-) It also has the benefit of allowing you to change the camber whenever you want by simply adjusting the bolt without affecting toe settings.
The rear will probably also be uneven as well. You can gain adjustment on this by fitting some camber asjustment bolts.
If you want a great handling car, go for
Front:
-2 degrees, 0mm toe.
Rear
-1.5 degrees, 2mm total toe OUT (not in).
Corners much much better and understeer is very much reduced. Bloody marvellous!
David
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