Well Pete i just seen the light after reading this !! lol
I think this sums it up nicely

"With the scooby standard suspension setup, if you have the steering pointing dead ahead and compress the suspension, the front wheels will toe out from the original setting. This is bump steer. The effect is to make the outside wheel on a corner(which is doing most of the work) toe out as the body rolls and the suspension compresses under load. This will induce understeer which is a stabilising effect but does not aid cornering ability.
Some cars have more bump steer than others. If the effect was opposite, ie the bump steer caused toe-in, the car would feel pretty unstable as you steered into a corner.

If the steering rack's vertical position is lowered in the case of the Scooby by the correct amount for the individual car, the bump steer will be reduced and the car will handle much better. In the case of my car, Powerstation demonstrated to me that the bumpsteer was reduced from 40 minutes, which is significant, to 1 minute on full suspension movement! With the rest of the suspension alignment the handling of my car was improved out of all recognition and the front tyres wear flat now instead of the inner shoulders wearing out."

Thats from "Leslie" back in Feb of this year.

Cheers Matey
Simon.



[Edited by Silver Scooby Sport - 10/1/2003 8:29:33 PM]

 

i have had the bumpsteer and anti-lift done on my uk my99 scooby. the front goes where you point it to the point of pushing the rear to its limits[oversteer]what can i do to neutralise this so its more safer to fling into corner and not woory about it stepping out??

[Edited by yhe chod - 10/5/2003 11:31:28 AM]

 

I was next in the queue after Babber at Powerstation on Tuesday, having driven down from Cumbria on my way to Devon for a work conference.
I was in two minds about getting the geometry/bumpsteer done but after reading so many rave reports I felt it was worth a gamble.

As soon as Nick set the car up with the alignment stuff and took the existing readings I knew I had made the right decision! The geometry was all over the place . The rear toe was positive on one wheel and negative on the other (making the car 'crab' very slightly on the road), the front toe was 10' difference between the wheels and the front camber was way off as well.

The next part of the process involved Nick setting up the front and rear geometry then testing to see how much bumpsteer correction was required. This meant Nick and his mate dangling off the two front towing eyes to compress the front suspension. 4mm shims were required in my case and after these had been fitted the whole geometry was checked again. To say this is done accurately is an understatement, by the time it was finished none of the readings were more than 1 minute (one one-hundredth of a degree) different left to right. The breeze coming through the garage doors was altering the readings on the monitor!

On the road the car is transformed, understeer is all but gone, the car just locks on to a line round the corner and follows it, and all the vagueness and squirminess under braking has dissapeared.
All in all a fantastic mod, everything I hoped it would be, it really is 'like having a new car'. If anyone is thinking of getting it done but think they are too far away from Cheltenham, I'd say go for it, if I'd driven the 300 miles there, got the work done and the driven the 300 miles back again I would have considered it well worthwhile ( as it was I had an interesting few days in Devon and the mileage claim will pay for the work )

Thanks to everyone at Powerstation, especially Nick and his mate (sorry can't remember your name) the servce was brilliant.
Total cost before anyone asks, £141 inc vat (considerably less than Babber's bill I suspect )

 

I can only mirror what you are saying!! The attention to detail paid by Nick was un-believable!! Lol, I did laugh when they were hanging off the towing eyes, jumping up and down

My bill was sadly £540 but worth every single penny IMHO. As it has been said, you MUST get this done to your car, you won't believe the difference in stability across a bumpy road and when braking hard. Understeer is almost non existant now, and roadabouts are great fun

Phill

 

Ahem.... 1 minute = 1/60th of a degree, 1 second = 1/60 of 1 minute

 

No-one likes a smart **** Avalanche

 

Does any one know what toe and camber settings Powerstation use ?

 

i got my STi 7 set up at TSl and totally tranforms it

Camber Settings are:

Front: -1.09'
Rear: -1.25'

 

. (Double Post)

[Edited by IWatkins - 9/19/2003 8:39:43 AM]

 

minesgreen

I think it depends on what you use the car for. I.e. the settings they use for a car used to do motorway miles/A Roads and no track days is different than for the track day enthusiast.

It's alright though, Moray will be along in a minute to tell you how to do the bump steer mod on your driveway

Cheers

Ian

 

Front toe +0.05'
front camber -1.08'

Rear toe +0.02'
rear camber -1.23'

Still smiling

 

PMSL @ Ian

 

I can only reinforce what all the guys have said. Dirk did mine on Saturday, and although he's a chap of few wordsm he did a great thorough job and the car is now fantastic. Should have been like this from new.

At 120+VAT it's very good value. A definite must for any Scooby.

DR

 

"It's alright though, Moray will be along in a minute to tell you how to do the bump steer mod on your driveway"

Nice one Ian, LOL!

 

babber - why £540?

wheres the nearest place to me that can do the bumpsteer thingy?

if its already been done will they not charge?

 

Extra bits and bobs, front droplinks, camber bolts, anti roll bar and H/D mounts!!

Plus labour and VAT

Phill

 

Right gents help me out here a little please,

Running a MY52 Sport with 17" wrx wheels, the insides of the tyres are scuffed out completely so in the next few thousand miles i will have to get new rubber all round, Looking at Toyo Proxes T1-S but when i do this a trip to Cheltenham will be in order for the geometry alignment..... she wanders with the counters as you can well imagine !!
Will someone go back to basics and explain what the bumpsteer mod is please ?? read a lot about it and everyone says how good it is but i have never been sure on exhactly what it is ??

Thanks
Simon

 

Simon,
crack open a bottle of beer, type 'bumpsteer' into the search and settle down for an hour or two's reading, after that you'll know about as much as anyone here

ps it's definitely worth doing, you'll probably save the cost in extra tyre life alone.

 

Thanks Pete lol....... sounds like a crate of beer to me !!
When i have a hour spare i shall do that.
Simon

 

Put it this way, it money well spent IMHO

Thanks Phill

 

So if I take those toe and chamber settings to my local garage that has lazer technology, I'll have the same driving experience?

 

Not really. You ideally want the settings used to match the cars usage. I.e. track cars will be different to motorway usage cars.

I.e. if tyre wear is more important that overall grip you will need different settings.

Even so, just getting the car setup within tighter margins will improve handling. Getting the bump steer mod done as well will improve it no end and aid your cornering.

Cheers

Ian

 

OK, I thought the bumpsteer removal was a particular toe and camber setting, mentioned in this thread and was gonna ask the local guy to set the car to that - telling him to get it to the nearest 0.01 degree.

So this means that there are a few bumpsteer settings to chose from?

Anyone know best one for fast road/motorway use? (not track use)

 

akshay67,
the bumpsteer mod specifically involves lowering the steering rack by putting shims between the rack and it's mounting points.
The thickness of the shims required varies from car to car.

Without the shims you're just setting the geometry, which in itself is a good thing as cars come out of the factory with the wheels pointing in all directions, hence the many posts on here about uneven tyre wear.

 

Err, brake before the corner ? Slow in, fast out.

Cheers

Ian